Hey all-

I am trying to remove my front wheel studs on the front of my Z06 in order to install extended ones and I am having a hell of a time. It seems as if they are rusted on.

I am trying to press them out with a big C-clamp. This worked for one of them, but they seem to be stuck in there pretty good.

My question is, if I get a BFH and pound them out, is that going to ruin my wheel bearings?

Also would a propane torch help?

 

When I did mine, I removed the spindle from the car and then the wheel bearing from the spindle. Then I pounded the studs out over a gap in the bench vise jaws.

To install the studs I used a 1/2 socket as a spacer & a lug nut to draw the stud in. I also used a hammer over the vise to get them seated all the way.

Took me 8 hrs to do all four corners.

 

Yeah I don't have that option...I'm working from an apartment complex garage

 

A little heat may help, but be care in the application. Pounding on the wheel bearing assembly is unacceptable, unless it is supported(as already stated) to absorb the shock. You really need the proper tools/facilities to do this correctly.

 

Okay.

I think I will go back at it with the C-clamp method and add some heat and PB Blaster to the mix

 

I haven't done them on a C5 but I have threaded the lug nut onto the lug and hit it with a small sledge. They came right out, the new ones when right in, and nobody has ever griped.

I'm not saying this is the case in this example (because I'm not knowledgeable of C5 wheel bearings), but sometimes people are overcautious based upon theories.

 

No theories just fact! The best way is to pull the hub and use a press.

 

I'm not sure what is overcautious about using a wheel stud remover. It properly supports the back of the surface, and they press right out.

 

@Eric
It depends how you define "best". If the end result is the same, the path of least resistance is the "best", in my opinion. If it does cause problems with C5s, then a BFH isn't the best. The end result isn't the same.

@Lucky
Please re-read the first part of the last sentence. I don't know that all of the information posted in *this* post falls into that category. If using a hammer does not cause problems, then going through the extra trouble of removing the hub, buying/borrowing a tool and reassembling is being overcautious. On Camaros and Firebirds (clearly not Corvettes), there is no need to remove the hub and use a specialized tool. Thousands have done it via the method I've described without reported problems.

I'd love to be educated if C5s are different than my experiences, in case the need arises. From what I've read, the C5 hubs tend to fail more frequently than f-bodies during racing events. Perhaps they are less forgiving to lateral forces.

 

There is no need to remove the hub, as the stud removal tool can be used on the car. I bet you could even rent one from the autoparts store. My point is, if you are going to be pounding the studs out, then there should be adequate support.

I think giving one advice, who is of an unknown experience level, and working under less than ideal conditions(and inadequate tools), you have to side with caution. Perhaps you have worked on a variety of cars, and through your experience, understand what the limitations are.....for even simple things like fastener torque, electrical issues......and how hard to hit something with a hammer.

If you would rather beat on something with a sledge hammer, instead of using a tool made for the task......rock on.....it's your car.....

 

or drink a beer and correctly use an air hammer

 

FWIW I got creative with a C-clamp, some import lug nuts, and a lot of PB blaster and got my wheel studs out yesterday.

It took me maybe 3-4 hours to do the front wheel studs and then maybe 30 minutes to do my C6Z brakes up front...rear is already done.

Now I just need to get a buddy to help me bleed them and I am good to go

 

Congrats on getting it done!

@Lucky
I buy whatever tools are necessary to complete the job correctly. Just because someone makes a special tool, doesn't mean you must have it to complete the task correctly. A good example is the quick disconnect tool for the slave/master cylinder connection on manual LSx cars. It's not difficult to use 2 small screw drivers to depress the inner collar (this advice is generally followed by a disclaimer to be careful not to damage the collar with the tips of the screwdrivers). The same goes for window crank c-clips. A pick works just fine... there is no need for the removal tool.

As I've said before (more than once?), I'm not speaking from experience on C5 studs. I didn't invent the "beat on it with a hammer" method. It is common practice. The backhanded remark is unnecessary and the message inaccurate. I have plenty of special tools and I haven't come across the need for a wheel stud remover. I'd love to learn a legitimate reason why the C5 hub requires the special tool. Your persistence is enough for me to look for more information when the time comes. If there is one, then I'll be sure to buy it when I need it.

 

The C5 hub does not require a "special tool". Wheel stud removal tools can be used on a variety of cars.

I guess I'm just one of those freaks, who consistently find themselves in the minority on this forum, because I like to use tools designed for a specific task.
....when it comes down to it.....what do I know.....I'm just a grocery store bag boy.....

 

Sometime you will have to tell us about the special tools that job takes!

 

Perhaps another time.....I've got a clean up on aisle 5......

 

 

I didn't say the tool was specific to a C5. That point is really moot anyway. You haven't substantiated the claim that using a hammer to remove wheel studs will cause damage to the hub. It's not your job to educate me, but you seem adamantly opposed so I figure you already have useful knowledge other that "it's bad. use a special tool."

 

I guess you're right.....I'm just overcautious. I'm out......

 

The FSM recommends removing the hub from the knuckle and using a balljoint removal tool to push out the old stud. I removed the bearing on my 03 to replace the studs with longer ones and then just supported the lug stud flange with a vise while using a hammer to knock the studs out. That way there were no impacts on the bearing itself.

I have used a hammer to remove a stud when the bearing was still on the car. I was a little nervous pounding on the bearing like that but did get the stud out. I was replacing the stud with a stock size stud and was just barely able to get it into the back of the flange. There is only one spot where there is enough room to fit a full length stud in from the back. Its been a couple of years since I did that and I can't remember if there was enough room to get a longer stud in. If you can't then you will have to pull the bearing. You don't necessarily need a special stud removal tool just a BFH if you have a vice that will work.

I would be leary of heating the flange. That will transmit a lot of heat into the bearing and cause the grease to leak out. I had this happen when I was trying to pull the front rotors off my Tahoe. They were really rusted onto the hub and the BFH was not working so I tried heating the rotor. It didn't take much heat to start the grease flowing out of the hub.

Bill