Recently, the torque tube / drive shaft had to be rebuilt, so I did it. All in all in took me 3 weeks. After re-installing the torque tube, I started the car, and it was running very rough, stalling out sometimes. awe drove it for about 15 miles. of which it never ran right. Then, all of a sudden, it dies, and never restarted. Had to have it towed home. Any ideas where to start? Thanks in advance for replies.

 

Codes?

 

I didn't scan it with an OBD tool, but the messages that were coming up on the Info Center below the speedo cluster (if I remember it right) were low tire pressure, traction control, then later was engine not at full power. There was one more message, but I can't remember what it was.

 

You need to read and post your DTC. Here how:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

OK, i just went out there, and tried to get the codes, but it would not let me enter diagnostics. Instead, it just keeps recycling the same messages (written out) on the display center - "low fuel, reduced engine power, check tire pressure, check traction system, check tire monitor system, service engine soon". The fuel gauge is pegged to empty, and the water temp guage pegged to hot. Also, there is also a relay on the right wheelhouse fuse box that is constantly buzzing.

 

You either have a wet Body Control Module in the passengers foot well OR You have a serial data buss issue. Check that area for water/moisture. Also feel the under side of the carpet to see if its wet/damp.

Open BOTH doors and find the rubber accordion tube that connects the door to the body. Collapse the tube with your fingers and feel for the two harnesses inside. Once you have a grip on the wires,,,shake the hell out of the wires and then see if it will start. Sounds weird but, believe it or not, that fixes a lot of issues like yours. Helped a guy just about 3 hours ago fix the same thing.

Get back to me with the results.

 

Ok. when the PCM looses communication via the class 2 serial bus, those exact symptoms will result....same reason why you cannot access the DIC. I'm curious about the relay that's buzzing(number please). Go over all your wiring connections...battery..starter, etc.

 

OK Bill, thanks for the input. You're right, sounds crazy, but I will try all of those areas, and get back with you.

Lucky, on your suggestion to check all the wiring, the more I think about it, the more it makes me wonder if I didn't connect the starter wrong?..(surely not!!). If I reversed the wires on the solenoid, it wouldn't even work, would it??

 

No it wouldn't work if you screwed up the starter wiring. You should be able to hit reset to clear out those pesky messages so that you can get to pulling the codes.

How did you pull the torque tube? Did you remove the entire bell housing up front? Maybe you got the harness pinched somewhere. Get those codes or we're flying in the dark.

 

BlownBlueZ06- no, I did not remove the bell housing, so the wiring harness *should not* have gotten pinched. I did replace the starter while I had the exhaust pipes off. That's why when "Lucky" responded for me "....to check my wiring to the battery, starter, etc" it really made me wonder if I revered something there? I was so careful, though. Gawd, I hate these kind of problems. But all I know is the car was (previous to the torque tube problem) running like a scalded ape!

 

I disagree. The problems he is experiencing is classic class 2 no communication with the PCM...pegged temp, low fuel, zero oil pressure, reduced engine power, etc. That means no communication with the DIC as well. The humming relay makes me think there is a low voltage issue....thus, check all connections.

 

Well, to remove the torque tube, you will have messed with the harness going to all the rear stuff although it's more difficult to pinch something compared to the part of the harness around the bell housing. You have all of your rear wheel sensor wiring, transmission and differential wiring.

 

Lucky, so when you say check all connections (battery, starter), you mean to check to see if they are all tight...right? ANy others??

 

BlownBlueZ - yes, I did set aside the plastic rectangular (long) harness that runs down the side of the torque tube, but I thought you meant I may have pinched the harness up there near the rear of the engine at the bell housing. Geeze, the more I talk about this, the more it is seeming like I need to pull everything down again to recheck all??

 

Yes, battery connections for security, as well as power connections at the starter. Also, which relay is buzzing/humming?

 

I missed the part where he mentioned that. My A.D.D sometimes prevents me from reading an entire paragraph.

 

Lucky, the relay number is 3604 - says "ignition" on the corrresponding info drawing on the bottom side of the relay box lid.

 

No biggie.....

 

I'll be up late if you want to discuss. I'll PM you my number.

 

Lucky, so in addition to checking the starter / battery connections, and if something there is not found loose, ostensibly, it would be a pinched wire somewhere?