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Okay so im having problems with my car refusing shifts or grinding when I try to shift at very high rpms... I have a new level V RPM transmission, and a new centerforce dual friction clutch. I also have a short shifter that I bought on ebay (hell for 40 bucks i had to try it)....
I initially thought it was my clutch fluid being nasty and causing the issues, and while it helped by flushing it, it did not totally solve the problem. I also have a NEW slave cylinder made by GM.
Anybody have any experience with the knock off ebay shifter? It is very very short throw, and quite hard to shift, but I liked how short it was.. I just fear now it is responsible for my issues.
Okay so im having problems with my car refusing shifts or grinding when I try to shift at very high rpms... I have a new level V RPM transmission, and a new centerforce dual friction clutch. I also have a short shifter that I bought on ebay (hell for 40 bucks i had to try it)....
I initially thought it was my clutch fluid being nasty and causing the issues, and while it helped by flushing it, it did not totally solve the problem. I also have a NEW slave cylinder made by GM.
Anybody have any experience with the knock off ebay shifter? It is very very short throw, and quite hard to shift, but I liked how short it was.. I just fear now it is responsible for my issues.
Kinda funny....you pop for a premium tranny, and a good clutch....and go cheap on the shifter......
I've done alot of reading lately on clutches and have read many times about trouble shifting at high rpms after installing a new aftermarket clutch. Do some reading on a Tick adjustable master cylinder. After installation they had no more problems with high rpm shifting.
Yea, that is one thing I did NOT replace yet. How difficult is that to do? I may change to a nicer shifter first to see if that clears it up, otherwise that will have to be the next thing I do. Seems to me those are the only two possibilities at this point. The clutch/tranny/slave are all new.
I'm gong to bet it's not your shifter. Tell us, does your car shift fine at low rpms? Is it only when you are higher in the rpms that shifting is difficult or impossible until your rpms drop? And you say you have a Centerforce clutch???....
Read my post... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ly-worked.html
yea, it shifts decent at lower rpms, the problem is when im pushing redline. I was racing a 355 challenge car and the only reason he hung with me was because of this damn shifting issue haha
I guess I do not fully understand.. Why does the stock master cylinder cause this?
over time the internal seals just wear out, happened to me a few years ago...Got to the point were I was constantly picking the clutch pedal off the floor with the top of my foot. I put another stocker back in, its been fine for 2+ years..
I guess I do not fully understand.. Why does the stock master cylinder cause this?
It's what I was saying about the people with the more heavy duty clutches that can't shift at high rpms. This is because the stock master just can't cut the mustard anymore, not at high rpm anyway. The hydraulic system is overloaded. I read this many times in the last several days doing searchs on a new clutch and everyone that put the Tick on said the shifts at 6000 were smooth as butter afterwards.
I guess I do not fully understand.. Why does the stock master cylinder cause this?
Not the stock's fault...exactly...it may very well be a function of the Centerforce clutch. Seems the stock master doesn't move enough fluid for the Centerforce to fully disengage...so it's fine at low rpm but near impossible to shift at higher rpms.
Have you done the "test"? Where you have your car on level ground...put the car in 1st gear, push clutch all the way in and rev it to 6000rpm? Does the car move? Then it's your clutch not disengaging 100%. My car did that in 1st and in reverse...until I installed the Tick.
The Tick pushes more fluid which allows the clutch to be disengaged 100%, even at high rpms - KEEP IN MIND THE WEIGHTS ON THE CENTERFORCE CLUTCH FIGHT DISENGAGEMENT AT HIGH RPMS. At low rpms, the weights don't do much but as rpms increase, the weights fight the disengagement and can bend the clutch back into engagement.
See how your car shifts nice in the garage or at low rpms? If it was the shifter, it'd be a PITA all the time. With high rpms, it's the clutch...and the Tick should fix it...it fixed mine, thankfully!!!
Originally Posted by MY1STPEWTER
I read this many times in the last several days doing searchs on a new clutch and everyone that put the Tick on said the shifts at 6000 were smooth as butter afterwards.
Absolutely...like butter, and I have an MGW shifter (very short).
hmm, seems like I may be ordering the tick... In the drive way when im at a standstill with the motor running if I go to put it in first with the clutch all the way to the floor I cant say that the cars begins moving forward but it does sort of slightly bump forward a centimeter or soo and then stops. Cars are a PITA haha
hmm, seems like I may be ordering the tick... In the drive way when im at a standstill with the motor running if I go to put it in first with the clutch all the way to the floor I cant say that the cars begins moving forward but it does sort of slightly bump forward a centimeter or soo and then stops. Cars are a PITA haha
Just get the Tick master, it will cure the problem!
I know it's kinda pricey, but it does exactly what it's supposed to, and to me that's worth plenty!
My stock setup had the same or similar symptom and it was a bad pilot bearing. I'm assuming you have a new one of those though. I went back all stock except I used a pilot bushing instead of a bearing. Tranny shifts near perfect now.
What about that Ram adjustable master? I've heard it is a direct replacement where as the Tick is a modification process.
hmm, seems like I may be ordering the tick... In the drive way when im at a standstill with the motor running if I go to put it in first with the clutch all the way to the floor I cant say that the cars begins moving forward but it does sort of slightly bump forward a centimeter or soo and then stops. Cars are a PITA haha
No....put the car in 1st gear and with the clutch all the way pressed in - rev the car to 6K rpm. If the car moves...it's because the clutch is hanging or re-engaging because of the CFDF's weights. This is the test to see if the Tick is needed or not. If your car does this, then the Tick will fix it. If your car doesn't do this, you have another problem.
sure **** enough. first gear with the clutch fully pressed in and reving to beyond 5k the car rolls forwaard and you can smell it burn the clutch. No good indeed (((
sure **** enough. first gear with the clutch fully pressed in and reving to beyond 5k the car rolls forwaard and you can smell it burn the clutch. No good indeed (((
Now you know the problem...no need to pull the driveline, no need to replace the clutch or think of issues in the tranny...it's the clutch not disengaging enough, a common issue with the Centerforce (and other aftermarket clutches). Good news = the Tick should fix it as it did mine. Don't worry, you'll be very happy.
The Tick master, and about 2-3hrs labor, and you'll be shifting like you want.
Agin, don't worry...it's fixable.