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Help with code C1232 wheel speed sensor

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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 04:10 AM
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Default Help with code C1232 wheel speed sensor

Hi Folks, really hope you can help me. I have been experiencing the dreaded service active handling, traction control ABS (code C1232, C1225). I have read all supporting threads, especially Bill C's!! have now tried everything I can, including cleaning grounds, I have even replaced the EBCM as well.

The weird thing is when I turn the car whilst stationary on full lock to the right the lights come up in the dashboard and code c1232 comes up, but not when I turn to the left....which is very strange, also the code comes up when driving straight usually just over 40 mph. To me this sounded like a wiring issue, but checked the harness and did what bill suggests and checked the pins, I have ended up removing the plugs and soldering the wires direct which hasn't helped.

I am now grasping at staws, the only thing I haven't replaced is the wheel sensor itself! but reading through this forum, these tend not to go bad!

Any ideas what else to try? as I am at my wits end! now thinking it may be something to do with the steering....
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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Not to kick a man when he's down, but why in the hell would you replace the EBCM when your codes are pointing to the wheel speed sensors?

The wiring to the speed sensors is subject to no end of moisture and vibration. And if your computer(s) lose the signal from any wheel, then TCS, AH, and ABS will all shut down, and your car will make you think the apocalypse has arrived when in fact the fix is incredibly simple and cheap. I speak from experience. And remember that wiring moves around with the wheel, so it's no surprise at all that they seem to come up under particular turning/handling conditions.

Be glad! You have the "good" codes!

Start by pulling off each wheel's wiring harness. Clean all contact points, pack with some silicone grease, and reassemble. If that doesn't clear your codes, then you can isolate a bad harness by swapping it to the other side. If the problem follows the harness, then order some new ones. Worst case is the sensor has actually died which is a bit more involved because you'll have to pull the hub(s) down, but it's not a bad weekend job at all with the right tools.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 11:27 AM
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Not to kick a man when he's down, but why in the hell would you replace the EBCM when your codes are pointing to the wheel speed sensors?

The wiring to the speed sensors is subject to no end of moisture and vibration. And if your computer(s) lose the signal from any wheel, then TCS, AH, and ABS will all shut down, and your car will make you think the apocalypse has arrived when in fact the fix is incredibly simple and cheap. I speak from experience. And remember that wiring moves around with the wheel, so it's no surprise at all that they seem to come up under particular turning/handling conditions.

Be glad! You have the "good" codes!

Start by pulling off each wheel's wiring harness. Clean all contact points, pack with some silicone grease, and reassemble. If that doesn't clear your codes, then you can isolate a bad harness by swapping it to the other side. If the problem follows the harness, then order some new ones. Worst case is the sensor has actually died which is a bit more involved because you'll have to pull the hub(s) down, but it's not a bad weekend job at all with the right tools.
Please feel free to kick away, I do feel like a muppet for buying the EBCM, thought it would help to cure this as I have tried almost everything else I have read about including the harnesses/connectors. The only thing I havent replaced as yet is the sensor itself, will check it once again and see if I can get a reading on it. This is so frustrating, especially as there are no GM agents in Scotland!!! also may I add I am pretty talentless when it comes to electricity...
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fugster
Please feel free to kick away, I do feel like a muppet for buying the EBCM, thought it would help to cure this as I have tried almost everything else I have read about including the harnesses/connectors. The only thing I havent replaced as yet is the sensor itself, will check it once again and see if I can get a reading on it. This is so frustrating, especially as there are no GM agents in Scotland!!! also may I add I am pretty talentless when it comes to electricity...
So you have replaced both of the front harnesses? You might still have a problem with the terminators. IIRC the harness is female on both ends. Make sure you don't have any smashed or corroded pins where the harness plugs in. This code...

C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation

May point to a bad sensor, but bad wiring could also cause it. It's rare for those sensors to die but certainly not unheard of.

This code...

C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted

is almost certainly something in the wiring to that wheel

Clean everything ... every plug and pin, make sure it all fits tight, test for continuity at the unions if you can, and switch the front harnesses left-to-right and see if the codes change.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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Check out page 8 of Bill Curlee's electrical thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...on-long-8.html

That's what vibration can do to those wheel harnesses.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
So you have replaced both of the front harnesses? You might still have a problem with the terminators. IIRC the harness is female on both ends. Make sure you don't have any smashed or corroded pins where the harness plugs in. This code...

C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation

May point to a bad sensor, but bad wiring could also cause it. It's rare for those sensors to die but certainly not unheard of.

This code...

C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted

is almost certainly something in the wiring to that wheel

Clean everything ... every plug and pin, make sure it all fits tight, test for continuity at the unions if you can, and switch the front harnesses left-to-right and see if the codes change.
Thanks very much for the reply, I have only replaced the lhd side as that is where the fault is pointing to. Will recheck all the connectors again, should I check the EBCM connectors as well? I also just noticed my battery is dying a little (slower to start on a cold morning) , could it be a factor?
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by fugster
Thanks very much for the reply, I have only replaced the lhd side as that is where the fault is pointing to. Will recheck all the connectors again, should I check the EBCM connectors as well? I also just noticed my battery is dying a little (slower to start on a cold morning) , could it be a factor?
Low battery voltage can cause any number of faults. Are these codes showing 'C' (current) while the engine is running, and you have 14.x volts on the DIC? If so, that would usually rule out a misdiagnosis from low voltage.

I wouldn't muck with the EBCM until the codes start pointing you there. These cars are actually pretty damned good at self-diagnosis. Clean those contacts up good, and swap the harnesses left to right and see what happens.

Last edited by wcsinx; Mar 1, 2010 at 01:33 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Low battery voltage can cause any number of faults. Are these codes showing 'C' (current) while the engine is running, and you have 14.x volts on the DIC? If so, that would usually rule out a misdiagnosis from low voltage.

I wouldn't muck with the EBCM until the codes start pointing you there. These cars are actually pretty damned good at self-diagnosis. Clean those contacts up good, and swap the harnesses left to right and see what happens.
Yep codes are C, the lights come on when I turn to the left or go above 40 mph! The battery is noticeably slower at turning the car over but does still work, shall replace it anyway as a matter of course, hey you never know!! Already replaced the EBCM so sure it is not that
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by fugster
Yep codes are C, the lights come on when I turn to the left or go above 40 mph! The battery is noticeably slower at turning the car over but does still work, shall replace it anyway as a matter of course, hey you never know!! Already replaced the EBCM so sure it is not that
Hi all, thought I would just update this thread and let you know I have solved my problem with a replacement of the wheel speed sensor and the associated wiring, I now have a car with no flashing lights and all traction systems/abs are all working fully, i am very, very happy chap

Big thanks to Gene Culley at GM Parts House for outstanding service and getting all my parts sent over to bonnie Scotland!
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