High voltage and IPC down
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa ON
High voltage and IPC down
Hello everyone,
Im a new member here but read a lot of the posts recently. I experienced some problem with my new 2000 Coupe. One of those is my cluster shut off after a 10-15 ride and then turn back on 5-10 minutes later. When it turns on again, the IPC shows a high voltage message (15-16 volts) and then the voltage returns to normal (13.X).
I read treads back to 2007 regarding people having this issue. Some said it was the alternator, other said ground issues, IPC or one said ignition switch.
I checked the grounds, hot wires from Batt, Alter, and Starter and they look fine. When it happens, if I turn the key to acc the gauge will start to work again for a brief period of time but will not work when I put the key to ON again.
Other then that, I fixed the flasher issue by drilling a hole in the switch and cleaned it with electric cleaner.
What do you think for the high voltage and IPC issue??
Thanks everyone,
Frank
Im a new member here but read a lot of the posts recently. I experienced some problem with my new 2000 Coupe. One of those is my cluster shut off after a 10-15 ride and then turn back on 5-10 minutes later. When it turns on again, the IPC shows a high voltage message (15-16 volts) and then the voltage returns to normal (13.X).
I read treads back to 2007 regarding people having this issue. Some said it was the alternator, other said ground issues, IPC or one said ignition switch.
I checked the grounds, hot wires from Batt, Alter, and Starter and they look fine. When it happens, if I turn the key to acc the gauge will start to work again for a brief period of time but will not work when I put the key to ON again.
Other then that, I fixed the flasher issue by drilling a hole in the switch and cleaned it with electric cleaner.
What do you think for the high voltage and IPC issue??
Thanks everyone,
Frank
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa ON
Finally, I went with the cheaper one: the ignition switch.. I have followed Bill Curlee's post to repair the switch and it works! No more high voltage and cluster problem.
At the same time I removed the HUD to see what the problem was. (I could only see light at the very bottom of the windshield) So it turned out that the last deflector was off the gear and could move. So I pried the metal holder at the other end of the deflector and this thing also works! Men this was a good night!
Thanks to Bill Curlee for his "how to" post on the ignition switch!
At the same time I removed the HUD to see what the problem was. (I could only see light at the very bottom of the windshield) So it turned out that the last deflector was off the gear and could move. So I pried the metal holder at the other end of the deflector and this thing also works! Men this was a good night!
Thanks to Bill Curlee for his "how to" post on the ignition switch!
