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Poly Torque Tube bushing - anyone try these?

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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 09:53 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bash
A few vette heads told me that the extra play on the shaft causes extra wear on the cylinder during engagement
Huh. Well the input shaft and the slave cylinder don't even touch each other so I'm pretty sceptical that would be the cause of your clutch engagement changing. A worn bushing could only allow the shaft to move in and out and it only touches the splines in the clutch disk and the pilot bearing.

Peter
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 02:09 AM
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The bushings are there to eliminate drive line shock, to make the car a bit more pleasant to drive.Solid links would hold up better in all out racing but be less than pleasant on the street. Just like poly suspension bushings.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by blue63cpe
Solid links would hold up better in all out racing but be less than pleasant on the street.
What are you basing this on? Is it your belief that eliminating damping would make the parts last longer?
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 04:12 AM
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im noticing a slight rattling from underneath my car as wel,l could this be the bushings? are they hard to install? are there any how to's on this?
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by electronZ06vette
im noticing a slight rattling from underneath my car as wel,l could this be the bushings? are they hard to install? are there any how to's on this?
How many miles on your vette? The couplings will take a LOT before they become an issue unless something in the system has changed, more hp, high miles, or a high number of high torque launches.

When do you here this rattle? If on start during a normal launch from a stop, this is normal for the vette. The owner's manual covers this.

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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 08:12 PM
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I finally pulled the Torque tube apart today and the one bushing is torn up a little bit, but not nearly as bad as i expected it to be.

These are the stock bushings with 90k total miles and 60k miles with 500 + HP. I do not take the car to the track alot, but it has seen a few passes over the years. Mostly just jumping on it here and there.

Still torn on what to replace them with.....

Also - anyone know the TQ specs for reassembly?
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SmoothFRC
Also - anyone know the TQ specs for reassembly?
Bearing Housing Assembly-to-Coupling Bolts 70 N·m 52 lb ft
Clutch Actuator Cylinder Mounting Bolts (Manual Transmission) 12 N·m 106 lb in
Coupling-to-Propeller Shaft Bolts 70 N·m 52 lb ft
Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Bolts 10 N·m 89 lb in
EBTCM LH Mounting Bracket Mounting Bolts 50 N·m 37 lb ft
Input Shaft Bearing Positioning Bolts 35 N·m 26 lb ft
Input Shaft-to-Coupling Bolts 70 N·m 52 lb ft
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 05:37 AM
  #28  
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no its all the time and just a tiny little rattle from under the car and i doesnt seem to change much with rpm tho i cant really hear it well enough cuz its not extremely loud. the car only has 49k miles on it. maybe this is normal? kind of sounds like a when a bolt is loose just a little bit and it kind of rattles/buzzes but not extremely loud?
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 09:22 AM
  #29  
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Thanks Eric.... much appreciated!

leaning twards putting two rubbers back in... thinking the solid would put a bit more stress on the single rubber coupler.... and the stock ones appeared to hold up fine under my driving style

Last edited by SmoothFRC; Mar 28, 2010 at 09:25 AM.
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by electronZ06vette
no its all the time and just a tiny little rattle from under the car and i doesnt seem to change much with rpm tho i cant really hear it well enough cuz its not extremely loud. the car only has 49k miles on it. maybe this is normal? kind of sounds like a when a bolt is loose just a little bit and it kind of rattles/buzzes but not extremely loud?
Electron, does it increase when you hit bumps? Swaybar links when bad will rattle and sound like they are coming from under the car.
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 09:58 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SmoothFRC
Thanks Eric.... much appreciated!

leaning twards putting two rubbers back in... thinking the solid would put a bit more stress on the single rubber coupler.... and the stock ones appeared to hold up fine under my driving style
Hey, no problem. I think it would be a smart choice to stay with the stock couplings.
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 02:18 PM
  #32  
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no it doesnt increase over bumps? i dont think any bushing would be a warranty item otherwise id just take it in to get looked at but i dont wana pay for it to be "diagnosed" before they tell me whats wrong
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 01:55 PM
  #33  
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Spoke to Rick over at Prothane today. He was telling me they have been making these couplers for other makes for a while (2010 Camaro, Dodge's, GTO's etc) and they have had nothing but great feedback. I know - he works there, what else is he going to say.

Anyway - he did confirm that this is indeed meant to be a midpoint of stock and solid bushings. This one for the corvette is still new to the market, but they expect it to be a good seller once some tuners get them running in their own cars. I spoke to Mike over at ECS and he said they had some on order to test in their personal vehicles.

Also - i spoke with Mike Yerger and he was telling me the cheaper "stock" bushings being sold are reproductions coming out of China, which are not holding up near as well as the ones made in Germany. Just a word of caution - if you are installing a set, make sure they have the stamp "made in germany"... (i guess the copies could have this also though?)

I did go ahead and order one of the poly's for the rear coupler, and will go with a stocker for the front. I daily drive my car (when the weather cooperates of course), so i will certainly have some feedback once i get the car back on the road.

John
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 02:00 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by SmoothFRC
Spoke to Rick over at Prothane today. He was telling me they have been making these couplers for other makes for a while (2010 Camaro, Dodge's, GTO's etc) and they have had nothing but great feedback. I know - he works there, what else is he going to say.
Any additional details? Of the cars in which they have been installed, what HP/TQ levels are they at? Any testing on auto-x v/s drag cars?
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 04:00 PM
  #35  
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Electron may have the same problem I had. My pilot bearing went away and allowed enough movement in the input shaft to eventually break the throw out bearing collar off of the slave cylinder. It was just floating there rattling away.

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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 04:13 PM
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Han solo,

Man that sucks!! How many miles on the car at the time it broke? Any leading up to this happening?
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 04:30 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Eric D
Han solo,

Man that sucks!! How many miles on the car at the time it broke? Any leading up to this happening?
Yeah it vibrated and was hard to shift under power. Car had 43K on the clock. It now has a new stock clutch and a pilot BUSHING.
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