So i have a 2000 coupe in which I just turned 100,000 miles. Love the car and enjoy it and drive it all the time. It has a few upgrades such as a vararam CAI, oil catch can, Z06 sway bars, endlinks, and 2004 shocks. I use to have a problem with the service TCS and ABS warning lights until I replaced the alternator and put in a new battery 4-5 months ago and until last thursday no problems nor warning lights.

Then Thursday morning i start it up and get " SERVICE VEHICLE SOON" warning in the DIC and the traction and ABS lights are on. Oil life is at 75%. Ran the codes and this is what I got:

10- PCM P1571 H C ASR Desired Torque - C what the heck is this?
28-TCS NO COMM ???


58-SDM U1040 H C SDM isn't even on my list for codes


60-IPC U1160 H loss of comm with left door controls


A6-SCM B 2860 H


BO-RFA U1096 H loss of comm with IPC
U1064 H loss of comm with DCM
U1016 H loss of comm with PCM
C2100 H left front TPM sensor malfunction
C2115 H left rear TPM sensor malfunction

U1096, U1064, and U1016 also say no SOH message recieved -RFA

What the heck? Can anyone translate and give me some pointers on this one? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks ,

Sully

 

Hmmm....I'm thinking you may have the old "accordion tube" problem in the door hinge area. Does your window stop working when this happens?
I had a similar problem on my 2000 coupe. All the lights on the dash came on and my driver door switches stopped working. Easiest way to tell is when its dark outside the door switch lights will be out. Then when you open the door all the way they come back on.
Ultimately I had to open the door (car off) and pull the black rubber accordion tube away from where it meets the body of the car. Then pull out the two wire harnesses and find the wire that has the clear insulation pulled away from the harness. This bare section of wire shorts to something causing all kinds of loss of comms and warnings.

Bill Curlee has an excellent writeup with pics of this job. A search for "accordion tube" will likely get you the results you need.

 

wow, only one reply after a whole day? Come on guys... the NO COMM on the TCS worries me

 

How did the wiring in the left door accordian tube look? Pics courtesy of Bill Curlee....

 

I'll pretend you just said thanks.

 

All you need is the CORRECT 1. The one you got looks like a good possibility.

 

Man, I apologize for seeming to overlook your suggestion. Truely I just have a hard time understanding how a simple ground fault in the stupid door can cause a problem with the TCS!!! I mean really... I love these cars but the electronics are so frustrating... it's stuff you wouldn't think of until someone suggests it! I am gonna look into this for sure! Thank you for your time in writing the response and I do greatly appreciate any help!

Sully

 

Seams like you have alot of History codes which would relate to a weak battery. This is what I would start off with. Write down all of your codes (which you did), now clear all the codes and drive the car. Check codes to see which ones come back and than post them and we can go from their. Good luck and yes I agree with you these cars are electrical nightmares. But I love both my vettes!

Look at all the electrical problems Toyota is having, all electrical and computer problems.

 

I know its crazy. You wouldn't believe the amount of codes, warning lights, inoperable devices, etc that all came at once on my car when that happened. I was freaking out like my car was beyond repair.
Service ABS
Service TC
Service AH
Service Tire monitors
Check gauges
Security light
Reduced Engine Power
Low fuel
No oil pressure
No tachometer reading
Pegged water temp
No doorlock function
No power window function (for a smoker this sucks)
Radio dead (this sucks too)
Diagnostics said No Comm on a lot of modules, including TCS

I was seriously crapping my pants.



I could not believe that it was all caused by that one little wire in the accordion tube as shown in the pics that Bill Curlee posted (as shown above by lucky131969). Furthermore, I couldn't believe how easy the fix was. I still owe Bill a big steak dinner if I ever get the chance.

Please take the time to check those wires (in both doors). It may or may not be the problem, but even if it isn't you should still just fix them because its only a matter of time before they cause you a problem.

May also want to check the wires behind and under the battery. Maybe pull the battery and remove the battery tray. The PCM sits below it (I think) and you would be amazed at how much acid and corrosion is in those areas. Trust me I just went through that nightmare last week on a 4 month old WalMart battery. Ended up changing to a Optima Red Top/

 

Whats funny, is that you overlooked it, and it was the ONLY suggestion.....

 

No its cool. Lets just move on and hope he can get it fixed. I can't think of anything other possibilities at the moment.

 

......sorry....humor off.......

 

No Lucky is right, I wrote it off as "naa can't see that as being the problem", so again, i greatly apologize for that and I will check both doors tonight. As an upside I did change the battery recently to an Optima Red top. I will post my findings here once I look everything over.

Truely sorry I took your suggestion for granted. It will not happen again.

Many Thanks,

Sully

 

If that ONE LITTLE WIRE is the Class II Serial data wire,,,,naaaaaaaa, that wont do much if it shorts to ground, shorts to another wire or gets corrupt,, will it????. YEP!

Theres a Serial Data wire in EACH door harness.

Ive seen this over 100 times and servicing those connectors (disconnecting them, inspect for corrosion bent female pins, bare wires etc, usually solves the issue.

 

Any updates Sully?

 

finally got around to the 2000 yesterday ( Sunday ) and pulled the accordion style protector and yes on both doors the wire with the clear insulation has it pulled away. Talk about a tight squeeze. I can barely get my hands in there to mess with this stuff. Pulled the connectors apart and everything looks good with no bent connectors nor any corrosion. So now I guess I need to pull the wire out and cut it back to refit the insulation covered area??? Is this what's best or should I solder in a new piece of wire?

thanks in advance

Sully

 

Sully,

No need to either cut it or solder - Just coat the bare wire with some liquid tape

Hope this helps

 

Yeah thats what I did. Got some liquid electrical tape as well as some regulare electrical tape. I slathered the liquid on good. Once it dried I wrapped it with the regular tape just to be sure.

Sully, did your problem seem to go away when you had the accordion tube pulled away with the harness out?

 

liquid electrical tape? huh, that's a new one to me! But I will look for it! I cleared the codes in the DIC. Turned the key to on without firing the engine and checked the codes again and still had most of the codes. I did not check the codes with the harnesses pulled out but did check again when all was put back together and it still did the same warning lights and all.

Will keep updated!

Thanks everyone!

Sully

 

I just pulled up the same 3 codes - u1096, u1064 and u1016, fresh, after experiencing some really hard stumbles while accelerating and decelerating last night.

I'll be checking the doors tomorrow!