Hey guys. Haven't posted in a while because everything has been good in Vette land! Yesterday, I got the dreaded "Remove key, wait 10 seconds", as well as "Service Column Lock". My car is a 2001 with a 6spd. YES I read all over this forum yesterday, and tried everything possible. My first priority is to get the car home. Right now it's stuck in the parking lot at the local Walgreens. My question is this: If I order and install a CLB from Houston, is that going to fix my problem since I'm already getting the error message, and am dealing with the 2 mph fuel cutoff issue? I have already tried: Unhooking the battery, taking out the 25 fuse, taking out the 25 and 29 fuse, and I have the kick-panel removed.
That brings me to another question. My car has been to the stealership TWICE for the "Service Column Lock" message, but neither time was it undriveable. Doing my "due diligence" to get a grip on exactly what is going on with this system, I went ahead and pulled the kick-panel to look for the "K harness" that I had assumed the dealer had installed during the supposed recall repair. I found nothing. I did see the 4 wire plug where the CLB would go. I also pulled out the little silver box beside the fuse panel in the passenger footwell to look for an added relay that I seem to remember reading may be there. Again, I found nothing. The only thing seemingly unusual there was the presence of two wiring harness ends that weren't plugged into anything. My assumption with that was that they were something that may be used on an AOD car.
Can anybody tell me what to expect, or what my next step should be? Is there a way to get it home while I wait on my CLB to arrive?


Thanks,
barberben

 

First of all let me say thanks 8VETTE7 for your quick reply. Long story short, this has been the week from hell. My wife totalled our Tahoe a week ago today, and was in the hospital for 4 days. My daily driver has a blown head-gasket, so when this happened yesterday to my 'Vette, I almost went insane.
My first post was actually from the waiting room at the hospital, and done on my phone, so let me clear up all of your questions.
First of all let me add that I have been intermittently having another electrical issue. When it rains and for a few days after, when I would hit my brakes all of my lights on my dash would flicker. When I turn on my lights both turn signal arrows would light up, and if I hit the "lock" button on my key fob, the alarm (horn) would instantly begin blowing. I had cleaned both of the grounding points behind the headlights twice before, and did so again yesterday after this issue since I had already read the post about the low battery voltage. I took the battery out of the car, and had it charged at Auto Zone as well.
The column on my car doesn't lock AT ALL. Ever. I guess that the stealership removed the locking plate, which I didn't think they would legally do on a manual transmission.
There does not appear to be a K harness anywhere under the dash. I had already looked at that picture that you referenced to me. That's what I was looking for last night.
The male and female connectors were already hooked up, I unplugged them just to see if it would run past 2 mph. Everything under the dash looks stock. Nothing appears to be added and zip-tied anywhere.
As far as the spliced purple wire in the footwell is concerned. I didn't see one. Also the link that you posted doesn't have a post # 1107. Maybe somebody deleted something? It has only 1091 posts.

Please let me know what you think asap

Thanks again,
Ben

 

The same thing happened to me this weekend. I posted my experience in the sticky on Steering Wheel Lock. The first time I looked under my dash I did not see the k harness either. It was not on the left side of the steering wheel column it was tucked way under the steering wheel with no zip ties on it and was wrapped in foam. My K harness was white and it was still hard to see under there. I disconnected the k harness and put it back to stock and the car had no more error messages and ran fine. I did leave the car apart because I ordered a by pass from COH. I hope you find it because I no your frustration.

 

take a good look at your battery cables and if the ends look good, then you might want to measure the resistance of the wires. Sometimes they break down so that you can get enough voltage but not much current.

So everything works fine until you load it with something like the starter and it can't provide enough amps.

My fuel mileage would reset and other random electrical dropouts and I finally (after 3 batteries) traced it to the positive cable.

 

From the stick post:

Steering Column Lock FAQs - please read before you post!



Read down the page and find:

Q Can anything be done to unlock the steering column once it has locked up?
A Sometimes; turn the ignition OFF and REMOVE the key. Shock your lock motor actuator assembly by jerking the steering wheel against the stops. Re-insert your key and try again. Also, if your battery voltage is low, charge your battery or replace it.

I have seen it work more than once, it may at least get you home to install the CLB in your own gargage... not some expensive garage!!

 

I got my CLB from Texas yesterday. I'm going to get it in over the weekend, so I'll keep you all posted. Something tells me I'm still going to have to go to the stealership, or find someone local with a tech2k.

 

Hey I had the same error code come on the other day in mine. However, my steering wheel did not lock. The motor would fuel cut at 2mph. So I went home and grabbed HP tuners and it found the fuel cut and made it 225 MPH so it wont cut off. I also disabled the vats security . Do u have tuner software?

 

the pull key and wait 10 seconds is one of the warnings that your battery is about to head south.
A weak battery can create all sorts of electrical gremlins ( which you seem to be fighting) as can a bad ground.

do a load test on your battery and check your negative battery cable...
check the connection to the battery... is stripped, is the case cracked... it should only be torqued to 12 ft-lb.

check the ground to the frame ( bottom of battery bin, between battery tray and fuse box) to ensure it is tight, and not corroded.

and overtighted battery terminal that is cracked an leaking acid onto the ground wire can create a number of electical gremlins....

 

OK guys I definitely have a ground issue, because I have that thing going on where when I hit the brakes all of the interior lights flicker and I can hear a clicking in the passenger footwell. Also When the lights are on, both turn signal indicators are lit, and when I turn on either of the turn signals, both of the indicators blink. Also If I hit the lock button on the key fob, the horn starts honking like I hit the panic button. I just installed my CLB, and I only got the Remove Key message on the DIC once, but get the Column Lock message everytime. I removed fuses 25 and 29 and waited. When I replaced them and started the car, I got the Remove Key message again, but again only once, followed by Column Lock everytime I start it. I haven't been able to test whether or not the car will run past 2 mph, because it's still on the rollback. Should it run now that I've only gotten the code once? Where should I go from here?

 

Anybody?

 

If you know someone who has efi live of hp tuner you can turn off that 2mph cut out. I recently turned mine off and installed the clb as i dont ever want to get stranded becsuse of this dreaded GM stuff up.

 

There is no K harness, or spliced purple wire. That's the weird part. This thing has been to the stealership twice for "service column lock" on the DIC, and I can find NO evidence of them having done anything under the dash OR the pass fotwell. I'm confused!!

 

It depends on what recall was done and when. My car did not have the K hareness or lock plate removed but it did have the BCM 2mph fuel cut off program done.

Now thanks to 8VETTE7 who gave me the EFI programing details i have turned off the 2mph fuel cut off.

 

OK guys. I just went and re-checked my situation. All I've said is definitely the case. I tried to upload pictures, but can't seem to get it to work. There is NO spliced purple wire. and there is NO K-harness. I installed the CLB. Removed fuses 25, 29, and 23, waited and re-installed them. After that, the first time I start the car, I got the "Wait 10 seconds" message and no "service column lock" message. The car will crank but still won't run past 2mph. If I turn the car off, and re-crank it, I get the "Service Column Lock" message, but no "Wait 10 seconds" Message. The car still won't run past 2 mph, even though there is no "10 seconds" code.

What to do now?
Thank you guys for your help.
Ben

 

I had the pull key wait 10 second message come up after i installed the CLB so i dissconnected the battery and then reconnected and had no more issues.

 

Same thing happened with my 2000 C5. I was stuck in
Dalhgren VA, but next door to a certified repair garage with a certified Corvette repair person.

He replace several items including a wiring harness that was disconmected. Over $900.00 Repair bill.

I drove the car home and the next day, guess what? the same thing.

I got it to the dealership in Fredericksburg and they fixed it right away by taking out the same harness (that was suppose to be disconnected)and replacing the bad modular in the steering column. The moular does nothing as the steeroing column lock is disconncted, but, the modular is a component for the computer system to work, cost was $600 and something.

I have the wiring harnes, $900.00 worth, mounted on my Garage dumbing wall.

Buck

 

You just need to have the "CL Fuel cutoff MPH" setting changed to 255 mph by a corvette tuner.

Unfortunately those DIC messages will still be there each time you start the car so youll have to keep clearing it.

 

Here is a pic of the plug I unplugged to install the CLB. If there were a K-harness there would only be 2 wires right? The pic shows there's 4.



This pic shows my wiring harness with no "spliced purple wire".



I did somehow manage to pull one green wire out of the harness plug. what's the easiest way to fix this?



Here's another shot of my harness with my green wire mistake. Still no spliced purple wire.

 

 

Hey thanks guys. I'm pretty sure I know where it came out from, because there is only one little slot that is open, that actually has the connector in it, and the wire was right outside of that slot when I noticed it. I'm also pretty sure that it has nothing to do with my actual problem, because I pulled that wire out yesterday, while re-checking for the "spliced purple wire". So still no clue why my CLB isn't working.

Ben