Disappearing Codes on Sick Z06
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Disappearing Codes on Sick Z06
My '02 Z06 has ran fine this season until I stopped at a red light and without warning, the engine stalled (clutch in). I got it running again, but it runs very rough. The check engine light blinked on and off all the way home during the 3 mile trip.
I got home to check the codes and there is nothing without an "H" code and the exhaust smells aweful; almost like sulphur.
60-IPC-U1160H
A0-LDCM-B2202H
A0-LDCM-B2284H
A0-LDCM-U1064H
A0-LDCM-U1016H
A1-RDCM-B2265H
A1-RDCM-U1064H
I swapped out plugs/wires and all the plugs look the same. The bent shaft starts tan and ends up black. The spark pads look white. I let the engine "run" for 30 seconds or so and hit each header mount with a thermometer. All cylinders on the left were 115F to 130F, while all on the passenger side were 100F to 115F. I plan to let then cool over night and try again to see if I get different readings and maybe a new code if I am lucky.
I checked the air intake setup and did not find any disconnections or loose wires.
Any ideas?
I got home to check the codes and there is nothing without an "H" code and the exhaust smells aweful; almost like sulphur.
60-IPC-U1160H
A0-LDCM-B2202H
A0-LDCM-B2284H
A0-LDCM-U1064H
A0-LDCM-U1016H
A1-RDCM-B2265H
A1-RDCM-U1064H
I swapped out plugs/wires and all the plugs look the same. The bent shaft starts tan and ends up black. The spark pads look white. I let the engine "run" for 30 seconds or so and hit each header mount with a thermometer. All cylinders on the left were 115F to 130F, while all on the passenger side were 100F to 115F. I plan to let then cool over night and try again to see if I get different readings and maybe a new code if I am lucky.
I checked the air intake setup and did not find any disconnections or loose wires.
Any ideas?
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
The codes sound like a weak battery and its losing the power needed to run. I would think you would get more codes though with the CEL on. Check your battery and battery cables both at the battery and solenoid connections. Use a meter across the battery and you should see a minimum of 12.5vdc with the ignition off.
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From: Boise ID
The codes sound like a weak battery and its losing the power needed to run. I would think you would get more codes though with the CEL on. Check your battery and battery cables both at the battery and solenoid connections. Use a meter across the battery and you should see a minimum of 12.5vdc with the ignition off.
+ You also may want to pull the rubber accordion back on your drivers side door and check that all connectors are clean and tight (search for “Bill Curlee door”).
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Last year, I jotted down the codes when I had just learned of the means to get at them. I wasn't having an issue, but was interested to see what was in history. All of the codes listed above existed at that time with the exception of the 60-IPC code, but even this one has an "H" after it. I suppose, though, that the "H" would be indicated any time that the CEL is not currently on, correct?
Safety Car
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From: Boise ID
From the manual:
A current DTC will clear when a Node Alive message from the failed identification number is detected on the class 2 serial data circuit or at the end of the current ignition cycle.
A current DTC will clear when a Node Alive message from the failed identification number is detected on the class 2 serial data circuit or at the end of the current ignition cycle.
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The codes sound like a weak battery and its losing the power needed to run. I would think you would get more codes though with the CEL on. Check your battery and battery cables both at the battery and solenoid connections. Use a meter across the battery and you should see a minimum of 12.5vdc with the ignition off.
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Check that voltage first! Past that, if its up too power, then you need to look elsewhere. A sudden loss of running or running rough, here on the forum, we usually hear that a valve spring broke which sounds like your failure scenario. But please check that voltage first and unless someone else has some other ideas, do a compression test just to be sure and peace of mind.
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Many thanks to Bill Curlee!!! After a few tests and an infrared thermometer on the intake, we were able to locate a broken intake valve spring on the passenger side. Now, I am onto the valve spring research game and an install procedure.
Thanks again, Bill!!!!
Thanks again, Bill!!!!
Last edited by chiefsr; Apr 8, 2010 at 12:53 AM.
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
No problem!
Patroit Performance GOLD Springs are your friend. Just need to find out where to get them.
Go STRAIGHT to the website:
https://www.patriot-performance.com/...&cat=51&page=1
All you need in ONE package!
Glad we were able to get you pointed in the correct get well direction. Your problem had me baffeled for about 2 min!!
Bill
BC
Patroit Performance GOLD Springs are your friend. Just need to find out where to get them.Go STRAIGHT to the website:
https://www.patriot-performance.com/...&cat=51&page=1
All you need in ONE package!
Glad we were able to get you pointed in the correct get well direction. Your problem had me baffeled for about 2 min!!
Bill
BC
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What are folks doing about cams on these engines? Perhaps this is a good time to make a swap, which would impact the springs I use. This is strictly a "go have fun on the street" car; no races.
Is there a cam that wouldn't require a new tune off the bat, yet makes a performance gain? The future may hold a header install and H pipe, but I am not looking for huge HP gains or a wild cam with decreased driveability. Perhaps a cam swap just doesn't make sense and I should just replace the springs....I'm kinda fishing here.
Is there a cam that wouldn't require a new tune off the bat, yet makes a performance gain? The future may hold a header install and H pipe, but I am not looking for huge HP gains or a wild cam with decreased driveability. Perhaps a cam swap just doesn't make sense and I should just replace the springs....I'm kinda fishing here.
Last edited by chiefsr; Apr 7, 2010 at 11:53 AM.
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I was thinking just a possible broke spring, but it certainly looks like you said, a broken valve shaft. The larger question now though is, "was there any damage to the piston or head"?
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The broken bit in the picture is the location of the spring separation. I don't hear any ticking like the piston is hitting the valve, but the intake gets hot like the valve is stuck open. I am banking that the valve is indeed open slightly enough to allow exhaust gases into the intake, which is caused by the spring not retracting the valve fully. Is this short sighted?
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Just your own words that it was a broken valve. Obviously the spring is trashed which makes sense with the running badly and yet no codes that were staying on. Will hope and pray that the valve is ok.
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That was a typo...I just fixed that post to report a broken valve spring. I was lost there for a minute :-)
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Be happy that the spring valve locks are still in place otherwise there would have been significant damage. Not saying you don't yet have other issues, but hoping you do not. You'll need an air-hose adapater for the spark plug hole to keep the valve closed when you pull the spring. Obviously you'll need a side clamp spring compressor to get that spring off and the new one on. The GM parts places are only going to have the OEM springs and not what you appear to have which I don't know. Hopefully you or someone else can identify them.
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I am half-tempted to do a cam swap since I have to replace a set of springs anyway. I need to locate the spark plug hole adapter, but I have the spring compressor lined up. I have never seen stock Z06 springs; do you think the springs in the picture are not stock?
Cam $280.00 ByUnSpeed http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...roducts_id=850
Spring Kit $255.00 ByUnSpeed http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...roducts_id=826
Hardened Pushrods $105.00 ByUnSpeed http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=7060
Gasket Kit $61.95 ByUnSpeed http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=4770
Oil Pump $99.95 Lingenfelter http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...&Category_Code
Timing Chain $49.95 Lingenfelter http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C38
Cam $280.00 ByUnSpeed http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...roducts_id=850
Spring Kit $255.00 ByUnSpeed http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...roducts_id=826
Hardened Pushrods $105.00 ByUnSpeed http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=7060
Gasket Kit $61.95 ByUnSpeed http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=4770
Oil Pump $99.95 Lingenfelter http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...&Category_Code
Timing Chain $49.95 Lingenfelter http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C38