Remove key wait 10 sec, Servc. Column Lock, WITH CLB installed
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
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Your problem may not have anything to do with the column lock. Check the pellet on your key(s). Make sure they are clean. You can try cleaning it with alcohol or electrical contact cleaner. It is very important that there be a good contact between the pellet and the ignition key slot. You may also have dirty ignition slot contacts. You can also try spraying contact cleaner on the key pellet and inserting it into the slot several times. The computer needs to read the proper resistance value on your key or all bets are off.
Last edited by Cybermind; Apr 9, 2010 at 06:41 AM.
Thread Starter
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I checked the battery with a voltmeter and it is reading 13.10 Volts.
The DIC says "Service Column Lock" and "Pull key 10 sec etc" when starting, and then the engine dies.
I have a CLB installed so the column is not locked, the car will simply not stay running, with the message "Service Column Lock" whenever I try to start it. This was good since I needed a friend to help me push it out of a bad spot and I could steer.
The messages, and the car not staying on all happened at the same time.
I tried 2 different keys and cleaned them both, so I will try and clean out the ignition?
Edit: I forgot to mention, I checked the battery voltage after I had been trying several fixes with car and the interior lights and flashers were on so it may actually be higher than what i read from the voltmeter.
The DIC says "Service Column Lock" and "Pull key 10 sec etc" when starting, and then the engine dies.
I have a CLB installed so the column is not locked, the car will simply not stay running, with the message "Service Column Lock" whenever I try to start it. This was good since I needed a friend to help me push it out of a bad spot and I could steer.
The messages, and the car not staying on all happened at the same time.
I tried 2 different keys and cleaned them both, so I will try and clean out the ignition?
Edit: I forgot to mention, I checked the battery voltage after I had been trying several fixes with car and the interior lights and flashers were on so it may actually be higher than what i read from the voltmeter.
Last edited by Phatfiddler; Apr 9, 2010 at 03:06 PM.
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Ok, I tried cleaning the contacts again with no luck. I also tried pulling Fuse 23 in case the CLB/BCM werent communicating properly.
Also, there are no codes, History or Current related to the problem I am having. The only codes are for the HVAC and TCS, both I am already aware of.
BUT, I get BCM error codes when I remove/replace fuse 23 but thats probably because I removed it, right?
LOL what next?
Also, there are no codes, History or Current related to the problem I am having. The only codes are for the HVAC and TCS, both I am already aware of.
BUT, I get BCM error codes when I remove/replace fuse 23 but thats probably because I removed it, right?
LOL what next?
Thread Starter
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8VETTE7, first off I thank you for your helping in this thread!
The car will start and idle on the first try. The DIC will then display "remove key for 10 sec" and the engine will turn off. If i wait and try again, the car will idle for roughly 2 seconds before shutting off again, with the DIC displaying "Service Column Lock"
I pulled the #25 fuse for 10 minutes and am going to see if it fixed anything.
The car will start and idle on the first try. The DIC will then display "remove key for 10 sec" and the engine will turn off. If i wait and try again, the car will idle for roughly 2 seconds before shutting off again, with the DIC displaying "Service Column Lock"
I pulled the #25 fuse for 10 minutes and am going to see if it fixed anything.
Last edited by Phatfiddler; Apr 9, 2010 at 05:24 PM.
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On the remote chance that the CLB has failed and somehow is creating other problems you might consider disconnecting the CLB and plugging the male connector from the Actuator back into the connector that goes off to the BCM. This puts the wiring back to factory setup assuming the GM recall service has never been done.
Also, here's a video of whats happening when I try to start it:http://tinypic.com/m/9rpqpk/3
You can see the car starts and idles fine, and then dies once the column lock problem shows on the DIC.
Ignore the "Service Vehicle Soon" as that is because I have the fuse for ABS pulled.
Last edited by Phatfiddler; Apr 9, 2010 at 06:25 PM.
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Thread Starter
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I will try what you said and will take pictures of the fuse area in the passenger and under the steering column to verify that I do not have any recall mods.
I am certain that I don't but I will double-check as I installed the CLB 2 years ago and may have missed something.
I am certain that I don't but I will double-check as I installed the CLB 2 years ago and may have missed something.
Thread Starter
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I put the key in and got the "Pull key wait 10 sec" message again, so i pulled the key and put it back in and now have the "Service Column Lock" message again. This shows up even if I put the key in the ON position without trying to start the car.
I stopped at the gauge sweep like you said (with the service column lock message showing in the DIC, so I cleared it before doing the 30 second wait), waited 30 seconds, and tried to start, and the "Service Column Lock" message reappeared, and the car shut off like before.
EDIT: I checked and there is NOT a spliced purple wire in the fuse area. All of the connectors and wiring look factory and there are no splices or extra extensions to be found.
I think I am going to have to wait until tomorrow morning to check under the steering column since it is starting to get dark here. I fell about 50 yards short of my parking space :-(
I stopped at the gauge sweep like you said (with the service column lock message showing in the DIC, so I cleared it before doing the 30 second wait), waited 30 seconds, and tried to start, and the "Service Column Lock" message reappeared, and the car shut off like before.
I think I am going to have to wait until tomorrow morning to check under the steering column since it is starting to get dark here. I fell about 50 yards short of my parking space :-(
Last edited by Phatfiddler; Apr 9, 2010 at 07:20 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 794
From: Longview Texas
It appears that the BCM is not getting a proper signal from the Column Lock system, so the PCM is cutting the fuel when you try to drive it.
If your actuator will still cycle, the first thing I would do is disconnect the CLB and reconnect the actuator to determine if the CLB has failed.
I assume your lockplate has been removed so the column cannot physically lock if you cycle the actuator. Correct?
When you installed the CLB, did you check to make sure that if a Harness K relay was installed, it has been removed? It is possible to connect the CLB to the Harness K wiring instead of directly to the BCM connector under the dash.
If your actuator will still cycle, the first thing I would do is disconnect the CLB and reconnect the actuator to determine if the CLB has failed.
I assume your lockplate has been removed so the column cannot physically lock if you cycle the actuator. Correct?
When you installed the CLB, did you check to make sure that if a Harness K relay was installed, it has been removed? It is possible to connect the CLB to the Harness K wiring instead of directly to the BCM connector under the dash.
Thread Starter
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Ok guys, I followed install directions for a CLB and reconnected the actual column lock mechanism. I'm currently getting the "pull key wait 10 sec" still and the lock is not engaging (the lock plate is still in there).
SO, I pulled the #25 fuse and will watch a South Park re-run, and then head back out and try again to see if the codes are cleared and/or if the column is locking again.
Note: I never had a problem with the column lock before, but I installed a CLB "just in case", so it should work when I hook it back up. Update coming in 30 minutes or so.
SO, I pulled the #25 fuse and will watch a South Park re-run, and then head back out and try again to see if the codes are cleared and/or if the column is locking again.
Note: I never had a problem with the column lock before, but I installed a CLB "just in case", so it should work when I hook it back up. Update coming in 30 minutes or so.
Last edited by Phatfiddler; Apr 10, 2010 at 02:13 PM.
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Ok, i put the fuse back in after 30 minutes and I am still having the same problem. The column-lock worked before I did the CLB mod, but now the column-lock is NOT working at all, so a BCM problem? I can start the car, turn off, remove key, and the column does not lock like it should.
It hasn't been used in 2 years so maybe it needs some encouragement from a hammer?
See Post 23
Also, the 4 wire colors for the harness are Blue, Purple w/ black stripe, Gray, and Gray w/ black stripe - this was wrong
It hasn't been used in 2 years so maybe it needs some encouragement from a hammer?
See Post 23
Also, the 4 wire colors for the harness are Blue, Purple w/ black stripe, Gray, and Gray w/ black stripe - this was wrong
Last edited by Phatfiddler; Apr 12, 2010 at 12:16 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You need to make sure that the BCM and PCM are getting the correct voltages. There are TWO power supplies that need to be checked. The one that is suspect is the voltage from the ignition switch. Is called "Hot in Tun and Start" or "Hot in RUN".
Here a post that details where to find those fuses. The voltages out of the ignition switch should be the same as battery voltage>
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
There are two holes on the top of each fuse. check the voltage there to ground.
BC
Here a post that details where to find those fuses. The voltages out of the ignition switch should be the same as battery voltage>
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
There are two holes on the top of each fuse. check the voltage there to ground.
BC
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,393
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From: HOU TEX
You may have the factory "K Harness" installed. If so, you are plugging in the CLB Bypass into the harness instead of the actuator connector and thus having two bypasses. You need to pull off your knee bolster panel, unplug the connector which leads to your column actuator and then follow it until you see wire harness and relay box (usually zip tied and wrapped in wire loom). Unplug that from the opposite end and throw it away. Now plug in your CLB Bypass and your problem should be solved.
If you have any questions, give me a call (713-206-0967) and I can talk you through it. Hope this helps.
Jarek
If you have any questions, give me a call (713-206-0967) and I can talk you through it. Hope this helps.
Jarek
Last edited by Spoon83; Apr 12, 2010 at 12:35 PM.
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Ok guys, I checked fuses 9, 13, 19, 22, 23, 25, 29, 47 and 50 in the IPC and they all appear to be good. However, I don't have a fuse 22 installed, and the cover panel doesn't list it as having a use.
I think I may have listed the wrong wire when I was mentioning colors. To help clarify I took a picture. The plug is connected to the vehicle with a white clip.
I was using the correct plug earlier, but may have jotted down the wrong colors.
Bill Curlee - I am checking out that thread you posted and will post back!
Thanks!
I think I may have listed the wrong wire when I was mentioning colors. To help clarify I took a picture. The plug is connected to the vehicle with a white clip.
I was using the correct plug earlier, but may have jotted down the wrong colors.
Bill Curlee - I am checking out that thread you posted and will post back!
Thanks!
Last edited by Phatfiddler; Apr 12, 2010 at 12:37 PM.
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Under Hood Fuse Center
ENG ING1 FUSE# 19
INJR 2 FUSE# 18
THROTCONT FUSE# 17
INJR 1 FUSE# 22
PCM FUSE# 16
F/PMP FUSE# 13
Instrument Panel Fuse block
BTSI BU Fuse# 21
BCM 13 Fuse# 22 - I do not have this fuse
IPC Fuse# 19
Results: I measured across the fuse, so I should read 0.00 Volts if the fuse is good. 1 of the fuses under the hood and 1 of the fuses in the IPC measured 6.3mV. The rest measure 0.00V.
Also, after several days of troubleshooting my battery is now down to 11.4 Volts. Should I charge it to make sure it is not a contributing factor?
Last edited by Phatfiddler; Apr 12, 2010 at 12:49 PM.
Veteran
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Louisville KY
I noticed your odometer reading comes up when you start the car. That's an indication of a low battery because the computer has gone into default mode.