clutch air gap
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 499
Likes: 3
Here is the best way to make sure its correct:
- TICK SHIM MEASUREMENT from the parts web site: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/
Checking Your work:
http://tick-performance.com/images/tickshiftfaq.html
- TICK SHIM MEASUREMENT from the parts web site: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/
Checking Your work:
http://tick-performance.com/images/tickshiftfaq.html
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,, Let me tell you about some of the issues that you can experience IF, you just slap in an aftermarket clutch and don't worry about the proper slave cylinder to pressure plate finger air gap.
If you replace Stock GM OEM clutch, pressure plate, Throw-out brg etc... with stock GM OEM replacement stuff, you really do NOT need to worry too much about taking the measurements. That's why it is not in the service manuals. I always check cause its easy, I HAVE THE TOOLS AND I UNDERSTAND HOW TO DO IT.
HOWEVER, when you install aftermarket parts, its ALWAYS a good idea to check the measurements. Some clutch manufactures supply a shim and tell you to use it. I installed a SPEC Dual disk and it came with a shim. The install instructions told you to install it on C5 applications. After taking the critical measurements, I DID NOT NEED THE SHIM!
If you NEED a shim and do not install one, you will not have the proper slave cylinder throw and not enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. That will cause the car to creep forward when in gear and clutch depressed. It also makes shifting difficult and will quickly destroy your synchros and blocker rings.
If you ADD a shim and don't need to install a shim, the throw out bearing will always put pressure and or release force on the pressure plate springs and you will quickly burn up the throw out bearing and or cause the clutch to slip under power.
I have seen installs where people have inserted the torque tube output shaft into the clutch disk splines and inadvertently let the drive line drop and that causes the clutch hub to bend (deform). Once the hub is bent the clutch disk will never properly release from the pressure plate or flywheel. THATS, where you use the feeler gage to see if that condition exist.
IF, you install a TICK Master Cylinder, you have to be very careful that you don't adjust the adjustable turn buckle between the peddle and the master cylinder so that it causes the slave cylinder to over extend and push the pressure plate spring over center.
I always start with a collapsed adjustment rod and extend it in small steps until I get the rear wheels to STOP DRIVING when the clutch peddle is fully depressed and the trans is in first gear. From that point you can do actual on road shift testing in normal driving and under power shifting and make the fine adjustments.
Bill
If you replace Stock GM OEM clutch, pressure plate, Throw-out brg etc... with stock GM OEM replacement stuff, you really do NOT need to worry too much about taking the measurements. That's why it is not in the service manuals. I always check cause its easy, I HAVE THE TOOLS AND I UNDERSTAND HOW TO DO IT.
HOWEVER, when you install aftermarket parts, its ALWAYS a good idea to check the measurements. Some clutch manufactures supply a shim and tell you to use it. I installed a SPEC Dual disk and it came with a shim. The install instructions told you to install it on C5 applications. After taking the critical measurements, I DID NOT NEED THE SHIM!
If you NEED a shim and do not install one, you will not have the proper slave cylinder throw and not enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. That will cause the car to creep forward when in gear and clutch depressed. It also makes shifting difficult and will quickly destroy your synchros and blocker rings.
If you ADD a shim and don't need to install a shim, the throw out bearing will always put pressure and or release force on the pressure plate springs and you will quickly burn up the throw out bearing and or cause the clutch to slip under power.
I have seen installs where people have inserted the torque tube output shaft into the clutch disk splines and inadvertently let the drive line drop and that causes the clutch hub to bend (deform). Once the hub is bent the clutch disk will never properly release from the pressure plate or flywheel. THATS, where you use the feeler gage to see if that condition exist.
IF, you install a TICK Master Cylinder, you have to be very careful that you don't adjust the adjustable turn buckle between the peddle and the master cylinder so that it causes the slave cylinder to over extend and push the pressure plate spring over center.
I always start with a collapsed adjustment rod and extend it in small steps until I get the rear wheels to STOP DRIVING when the clutch peddle is fully depressed and the trans is in first gear. From that point you can do actual on road shift testing in normal driving and under power shifting and make the fine adjustments.
Bill
