Header bolt seal
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 2
From: San Clemente CA
Header bolt seal
I'm in the midst of installing a set of B&B headers on my '03 Z. I notice the factory installed the header bolts with some sort of thread sealer. What should I use to duplicate their efforts - Loctite? I don't want those suckers coming loose, and I see there is no sort of retainer used on the bolts.
The bolts were definitely a pain to get out. I plan to clean the threads and then use some sort of anti-gall/loctite on there. Thanks for suggestions.
The bolts were definitely a pain to get out. I plan to clean the threads and then use some sort of anti-gall/loctite on there. Thanks for suggestions.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
I used the ARP studs but also the ARP Thread Lube and they don't come loose. I wouldn't use Loctite on these bolts. They also don't go into the water jacket so no sealer is required. Personally I would use an anit-seize of some type on the bolts.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 138
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
I'm in the midst of installing a set of B&B headers on my '03 Z. I notice the factory installed the header bolts with some sort of thread sealer. What should I use to duplicate their efforts - Loctite? I don't want those suckers coming loose, and I see there is no sort of retainer used on the bolts.
The bolts were definitely a pain to get out. I plan to clean the threads and then use some sort of anti-gall/loctite on there. Thanks for suggestions.
The bolts were definitely a pain to get out. I plan to clean the threads and then use some sort of anti-gall/loctite on there. Thanks for suggestions.
If you have a service manual I suggest you consult it, if not I suggest you get one.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,285
Likes: 16
From: Nashville TN
do not use loctite on header bolts. Put some anti-seive on them and torque to spec. You should re-torque them after putting some miles and heat cycles on the headers. You don't need anything special on these bolts. Also if you want you can change to ARP studs or stage 8 fasteners. BTW I would not recommend using stainless steel bolts in aluminum heads.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
Re use the original bolts. Clean the threads, use a anti seize on ea. one. Spark plug threads old/new, same thing, also put dielectic grease on the ceramic/porcelan area of s/plug & light coat in the plug ends of the boots.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
Do not reuse the old bolts. I did and one of them broke off in the head. $240 later to have a shop extract it and I'm okay.
Even if you order new factory bolts, those are better than the old bolts, which have gone through thousands of heat/cool cycles.
Do not use loctite and do not over torque the bolts.
The pattern you want to tighten them is as follows:
Start with the two center bolts and work your way out alternating sides left-right or right-left.
First pass is 11 lbs.
Second/final pass is 18 lbs.
That's per my 2003 FSM.
No, 18 lbs. isn't much and you can easily go way over 18 lbs. with a ratchet.
Even if you order new factory bolts, those are better than the old bolts, which have gone through thousands of heat/cool cycles.
Do not use loctite and do not over torque the bolts.
The pattern you want to tighten them is as follows:
Start with the two center bolts and work your way out alternating sides left-right or right-left.
First pass is 11 lbs.
Second/final pass is 18 lbs.
That's per my 2003 FSM.
No, 18 lbs. isn't much and you can easily go way over 18 lbs. with a ratchet.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
do not use loctite on header bolts. Put some anti-seive on them and torque to spec. You should re-torque them after putting some miles and heat cycles on the headers. You don't need anything special on these bolts. Also if you want you can change to ARP studs or stage 8 fasteners. BTW I would not recommend using stainless steel bolts in aluminum heads.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 193
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
For what it is worth (nothing) the GM specs for use on the intake manifold bolts turns out to be Blue (medium strength) thread locker (Locktite). What drives you nuts is that GM packages it in a red tube (but it says blue in the labeling).
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,359
Likes: 1,127
From: Dyer, IN
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 138
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 2
From: San Clemente CA
Wow, more advice and help than I could've expected! Thanks very much everyone!
I cleaned up the old header bolts with a wire wheel on my die grinder, and ended up applying some high-temp RTV Ultra Copper to use as an anti-gall, anti-seize, pseudo threadlocker. In my experience, anti-seize just doesn't provide enough locking capability. Having read some submissions on other forums, it seems a lot of shops like to use this for header bolt applications. Some even use it as a gasket!
Anyway, I'm re-using the stock gaskets and bolts, cleaned them up and applied the RTV and let it dry. I've noticed most high-end kits these days apply RTV to the bolts as an anti-gall agent.
I appreciate everyone's input to temper my own. Thank you!
I cleaned up the old header bolts with a wire wheel on my die grinder, and ended up applying some high-temp RTV Ultra Copper to use as an anti-gall, anti-seize, pseudo threadlocker. In my experience, anti-seize just doesn't provide enough locking capability. Having read some submissions on other forums, it seems a lot of shops like to use this for header bolt applications. Some even use it as a gasket!
Anyway, I'm re-using the stock gaskets and bolts, cleaned them up and applied the RTV and let it dry. I've noticed most high-end kits these days apply RTV to the bolts as an anti-gall agent.
I appreciate everyone's input to temper my own. Thank you!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,798
Likes: 8
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
I went with the stage 8 fasteners. To date I've only been able to install 2 of the 8 locks. Ain't no fun. I need to go pick up my mini vise grips and that should make installing the c clip easier.
The advice to retighten them after several heat cycles is solid advice. It's not that the bolts loosen I think it's more just the gaskets seating.
The advice to retighten them after several heat cycles is solid advice. It's not that the bolts loosen I think it's more just the gaskets seating.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,285
Likes: 16
From: Nashville TN
Yes you can reuse the gaskets. Just make sure they are in good shape, I have done it amny times and no leaks. I do prefer teh LS1 Fbody gaskets though due to the round ports which more closely match the headers as opposed to the Z06 "D" shape.
I stress that I would not use RTV or threadlock on header bolts, unless you never want to remove them. The aluminum heads are so soft it is very easy to damage the threads. I have always used anti-seive and the bolts always hold. I have never had a problem with leaks and I remove my headers a lot and the bolts always come right out. That's my thoughts, but its your car. ALso blue thread locker can be broken apart by hand and red requires heat. The headers are under extreme head, so I doubt threadlocker will do much to prevent a bolt from backing out anyway.
I stress that I would not use RTV or threadlock on header bolts, unless you never want to remove them. The aluminum heads are so soft it is very easy to damage the threads. I have always used anti-seive and the bolts always hold. I have never had a problem with leaks and I remove my headers a lot and the bolts always come right out. That's my thoughts, but its your car. ALso blue thread locker can be broken apart by hand and red requires heat. The headers are under extreme head, so I doubt threadlocker will do much to prevent a bolt from backing out anyway.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
HP Addict, gives good advise here on the GM steel LS 1 exhaust gaskets and not using thread locker. I've had my LG Pro's on for around 7 years and used my old bolts w/anti seize & the LS1 GM ex. gaskets. No problems w/bolts backing off & great seal w/gasket. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 2
From: San Clemente CA
I bought a set of Baer brakes, front and rear 13" discs for my old Firebird last year. All the bolts that came in the kit had orange RTV installed on the threads. I've bought other components where the supplied bolts also had RTV. Seems to be the way to go these days. Anti-seize is good, but I'd prefer something with more high-temp capability and that tends to lock the thread.
BTW, I tried installing the passenger side header tonight and ran into a problem with one of the bolt-holes in the head. I need to chase it and clean it out. From what I can see the bolt is M8-1.25. Is that correct?
Thanks.
BTW, I tried installing the passenger side header tonight and ran into a problem with one of the bolt-holes in the head. I need to chase it and clean it out. From what I can see the bolt is M8-1.25. Is that correct?
Thanks.