I finally got my 2002 Z06 running right and I was putting some miles on it to get rid of "not ready's" so I could pass inspection. I put on about 100 trouble free miles. I was at about the 3/4 mark on a 30 mile trip where I started off on some back roads then pulled onto the highway. I get up to about 70 and the engine dies. I pop start it and this happens probably 5 more times in the 2 miles I am on the highway. When it is running it has little power. I get to the light at the end of the highway and have to rev it at about 2k to keep it running. I turn onto the street off the highway, the car is trying to die in the intersection. I get onto the street and the car takes off and drives beautifully again. There were no codes.

I checked over the intake making sure there were no leaks after the MAF since I had just played with the air box. After that I got to thinking it could be the crankshaft position sensor. I have recently replaced this, but it was with a duralast unit. Do these symptoms sound like a CKP?

I should add this was not the first time I took the car up to 70 mph.

 

Unless you read and post the excat DTCs that are being displayed, your going to get 50 different general THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM replies. Please read and post your DTCs. Heres HOW:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!


Once we have that information, diagnostic and repair is most often pretty straight forward.

Bill

 

Thanks, Bill...but there were no codes.

 

How were you actually reading the DTCs??

IF,,,,,,,,,,,you have no DTCs set, the car is having an issue with a problem that is NOT being reported by a specific module. i.e. it THINKS all is normal.

Some of the thing that can cause this NON REPORTED DTC issues are:


- Ignition switch issue: (loss of a HOT in ON and Start ignition voltage". "Car Thinks it was turned off normaly"

-Another is loss of the ignition coil secondary operation.

-Loss of fuel pump operation and or fuel pressure.

BC

 

The dash and a scan tool.

I think being able to rev it to keep it running at the stop light rules this out.

Secondary operation? Can you explain this further, please? I am at work and don't have the service manual with me.

I hope not. I do have a new Racetronix fuel pump but I don't feel like replacing that without a lift. Isn't there a connection on the fuel pump that is known to loosen on these cars?

I will also add that I think when I looked in my mirror to make sure no one was rear ending me my exhaust seemed smoky where normally there isn't much to see at all. This was also at night so my visions could have be deceiving.

 

AH,,,,,,,,,,,Now you adding more good info. Please list all your MODS.

Some things that can cause the engine to die with all those symptoms are:

-Not enough air (clogged filter and or collapsed MAF coupler or air bridge ducting )

- MAF malfunction (very dirty or defective or wiring issue. Check the main at back of manifold in main engine wiring harness where it bends around the matal bracket

BC.

 

The only "mod" is a drop in K&N that was recently cleaned and oiled. I will clean the MAF just in case it was over oiled. I am thinking I would have experienced problems more than just those three minutes. I will also check over that wiring.

 

Can you start it using the key?? (Sorry if I missed where you had answered this already) I had a car with a battery that died on the highway and it did EXACTLY this. Sometimes it would re-start, sometimes not, but try having the battery checked...

Just my thoughts


-Ed

 

Yep, The car starts easily by key. I have a new Optima red top. I was just pop starting it because the car was already rolling at 70mph. These two miles or so are the only time in about 100 miles that the car had a single issue.