I have a stock 00 coupe and have decided to replace the plugs with the autolite xp5245 but not sure what to do about wires, what kind, brand etc. I dont track the car but will get to speeds that the computer shuts me down on occasion. i dont need the best out there but not sure what to do.

I have always in my younger days needed to go over board with performance stuff but now would like to just enjoy the car without modding it out. the car is strong, fast and enjoyable just the way it is.

hope that helps with offering suggestions.

 

In that case, you just can't go wrong with GM hotwires and Iridium plugs.

 

What in the world do you mean by this statement??? "I dont track the car but will get to speeds that the computer shuts me down on occasion

When " the computer shuts me down on occasion" what messages do you see on the DIC and what DTCs are you seeing?????

If you want the BEST plug wires for you hard earned dollar, purchase the GM PERFORMANCE RED WIRES from Gene Culley www.gmpartshouse.com. He has them for around $60. and they are the best bang for the buck. High quality, look good, preform outstanding and will last another 75,000 miles.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...rts-house.html

I didnt see the wires in his MARCK Special. Just call them.

Heres how to read your own DTCs:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!






BC

 

thanks for that

 

like when im driving my chrysler 300 and at 144 mph it shuts the car down, meaning it will not let you go any faster. it that case i get a check engine light and it will bog down the car until i let off the gas

 

DAMN

You live in PLANTSVILLE!!! I live in Gales Ferry. PM me and bring your car over and we will get it FIXED!

Read your DTCs and see if you have any active DTCs Thats going to tell you whats wrong.

Bill

 

Hopefully that's a track you are going that fast on and not a regular road. I remember once drive my VW Scirocco over in England, doing about 80 in the fast lane and suddenly without warning, here was a Ferrari on my tale. He came up on me super fast and still hitting his brakes. I got out of his way and his engine just hummed as he quickly pulled away and out of sight in a hurry.
Hopefully you aren't doing those fun things on US roads where things are more complex with more drivers out there.

 

We offer MSD Superconductor wire for $58 delivered.
MSD has the lower resistance of any helically wire and a multi angle boot.
We offer them with NGK spark plugs and can package them with any plug you desire
No one offers as good of a deal as us on MSD .

The MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Wire is "the" performance wire.Engineered from the inside out, the 8.5 offers everything you have everwanted in a wire; incredibly low resistance without electronic interference! In a single 12 inch length of Super Conductor Wire there is only 40 - 50 ohms of resistance! That is the lowest resistance of any helically wound wire. To accomplish this, we use a copper alloy conductor due to it's great voltage carrying capabilities. The low resistance results in less loss in spark energy so more reaches the spark plug. The conductor is wound extremely tight around a special center core. So tight in fact, that there is over 40 feet of conductor wrapped into a single foot of plug wire. This winding procedure, combined with a ferro-magnetic impregnated center core, produces an extremely effective Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI) "choke". This choke, or suppression capability, keeps the EMI inside the wire where it cannot interfere with other electronics on your vehicle. The outer sleeve that surrounds the conductor assembly is just as impressive. A proprietary blend of silicone and synthetic material produce a sleeve that is highly resistant to high heat as well as abrasion and tears.

 

Red GM Hot wires are the best out on the market.. Gene culley has them for 57.60. I just ordered mine.. They are actually on backorder

 

Our MSD's are never on back order and they are used by many and considered one of the finest on the market as well

Double crimp stainless steel multi-angle terminals and my lifetime warranty vs defects. The multi-angle terminal allows you to bend the wire away from the manifold. The lowest resistance of a hellically wound wire says it all.

We've been making wires for a few years now with great success with thousands of them on cars and trucks all over the world. Not saying the GM wires arent ok but for $68 you 8.5mm Superconductor wires and NGK spark plugs from me to your door with free 2nd day delivery.

Your choice of Red or Black.

 

had 2 go out on me ,read my other rough runnin post

 

Were they mine? What went "out" on them?

I read your post. It could have been as simple as not being seated correctly and swapping them fixed it. It wouldn't be the first time someone did not get all the plug wires completely locked on or the coil end pushed complete in. It will last for a while being barely on there but eventually will work itself off. Not saying this happened to you but we've seen it happen more than once. Some of the wires due to location are hard to get force behind to snap on the plug.

Did you have the wires tested? Do you still have them? Send them to me if you do and I'll test them.

In the thousands of wires we've made I've seen one actual bad wire. It had an internal break in it. Its not unheard of for there to be a defect in any wire but it doesn't happen very often and certainly is not a reason to condemn MSD. There are millions of users who have never had an issue.

We guaranty our wires for life vs defects so all you would need to do is contact us, we issue a replacement and you send us back the defective for inspection.

Spark plug wires just dont go out or go bad without a reason. They get burned, yanked off, mistreated and broken by people jerking on the wire and not grabbing the boots, any number of reasons.

 

whats the acceptable resistance range for the wires ,whats good & whats bad?

 

there is only 40 - 50 ohms of resistance!
I would say anything more than that is approaching bad but other wires have more than 65 from the get go but I would definitely consider it a degradation if you have more than 50. Let me know what you find out. I'd like the wires when your done with it to dissect it as well

When I've seen a bad wire with MSD it was a total loss of connection internally.

 

The resistance level depends 1st on the type of wire, and second on its breakdown rate.
I just found on my 2003 Silverado w/6.0 L and ~74,400 miles a couple of bad wires which where showing up as a missfire. I replaced them with the same type MSD's he is talking about and the factory wires averaged ~ 595 OHMs to the MSD's >50 OHMS.
My 02 Z06 only has ~10,000 miles but I decided to change them because of the lower resistance of the MSD's and had both sets ordered. I tested the the resistance difference for the LS6 and they where ~250-270 OHMS to ~25 or so Ohms. In both cases the MSD's where around ~10% resistance.
I have no doubt GM wires are OK, but for similar money I'll use the better wire every time, same with oil, same with filters, etc.
I did not get mine from this gentleman because I was not aware of his deal, but $58 for the wires, and $68 with plugs is a heck of a deal!

 

What exactly makes them "better".....the ohm reading on your meter? Better gas mileage? More horsepower? Other than the reading on your meter, what is the measurable difference you have realized, after changing to the MSD wires. Just curious...

 

Ive seen $250 wires that taunt 25 HP. Thats just a bunch of BS HYPE!

Fancy high priced Spark plug wries on an LSX engine will NOT add ANY additional HP/TQ,,, PERIOD!
If you want to up-grade from STOCK,,,,look for quality materials and construction.

You can NOT beat the OEM GM Red Performance wires for FIT and FUNCTION. PERIOD!!!!!!!!!!!!! They have exact coil and plug mating connectors and some of the BEST material components! If you can find a better quality than the OEM GM Performance RED Wire "PLEASE " let me know.

The GM spec for spark plug wire resistance is 275 - 750 OHMS. Resistance or lack of resistance (other than the OEM resistance),,does NOT make a better wire! Look for component quality!

BC

 

I do not have a dyno sheet, so I won't tell you I got X horsepower more because I don't have those figures.
I will tell you on my older cars with headers the quality of the wire will make a difference. I will tell you that when I set up my car for racing I don't want to have certain things become questionable issues like fuel delivery, or ignition, so I like to provide sufficient quantities of both to do the job. I also like to get the best products I can find at reasonably good prices. Sometimes the prices are more, sometimes they are close.
Not all high temp silicones, and or insulations are created equal. Not all cores or in the case of spiral wound core wires are created equal. In the past I liked Jacobs which where a premium wire at the time, also used MSD, Taylor, Accel and Moroso, Bosch, etc. The new MSD's are the best I have found and sell for very reasonable prices.
A lot of guys here are saying lower OHMs don't make a difference but in racing you wont find Warren Johnson, or any pro racer using factory wires. It only makes sense to me that a lower resistance core with a superior insulation will allow more spark to ignite combustion easier.
In the older iginitions you had one coil and genrally used an amplification box (volts and volume capacity) to enhance the coil capacity and spark. More volts allow the spark to jump greater gaps, but in electricity as volts (push) go up amps (amount) goes down. At 6500 rpm's the one coil did not have as much saturation (build up time) as today with a coil per cylinder. The story is different for the coil but a spark plug wire is still doing the same job, just shorter in length.
IMO whether "we" can quantify those differences here or not they are still there. When you start putting more compression, NOS, or boost you create more resistance at the gap for the spark to jump.
MSD makes a great wire and for similar $ for me it is a not a contest. I have friends that race with MSD wires that will last for years in some cases, depends on the set up. Look don't buy the MSD's because of what I say, if you feel better buying what the factory recommends thats cool.

 

Bill I value your opinion, and I am not trying to get into a battle with anyone, it is just opinions. I don't have tons of LSX experience, I just know some products which I trust to do the job for me, everyone should use what they fell comfortable with. OK?
BTW I wouldn't buy a set of $250 wires either! LOL

 

That's a long way to say..."I have no idea"....