I have a 2000 vette I added a Dynatech supermaxx system to it.
Now the check eng light is on and it seems to be the high flow cats the Car is running very lean
How do I fix it???

 

What DTC are being displayed????????? POST them.

.READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

 

Sorry for the delay

the Codes

BO-RFA 4 Codes

U1096 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
C2100 H

10-PCM 3 Codes

P0420 H C
P0430 H C
P1652 H

 

Your current codes are the P0420---Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) and P0430---Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

There are a number of things that could be causing this p0420 and p0430 catalyst efficiency code. The catalytic converter itself is no longer functioning properly or the other likely thing is the rear O2 sensor is no longer working properly. Other things could include exhaust leaks, damaged exhaust pipes, damaged O2 sensor wiring/connectors, plugged catalytic converter, etc.


Maybe somebody else could give their opinion.

 

Thanks would it be fair to say replacing the rear O2 Sensers would work, being the Header system and Hi Flo cats were just put on ???

 

The problem is very typical after you install LT's. The cats and 02 sensors don't heat up as fast as they do with stock manifolds and cats. They won't be up to temp when the system runs the checks. The best thing to do is turn off the tests or set them to pass as soon as the ignition is turned on. That requires HPTuners or EFI Live.

Not a big deal.

Replacing the O2 sensors won't solve the problem.

 

I have the same system. I deleted the rear O2's. I'm running the rear sensors in the front locations, with adapters. I throw Slow response Bank 1 sensor 1 codes with the occasional bank 2 sensor 2 code. At first it annoyed me. But I'm a pro at restting the codes via the DIC in mere seconds and they seldom return. Nature of the beast.

 

One trick is to turn the ignition to the "on" position so that the 02's warm up. I use this technique on my 96' Camaro. I'm not sure if it works on the C5 yet, but there are no issues with mine so far **knock on wood** and I've started the car this way several times after a recent header installation.

 

Yes it will work! They come on with the ignition switch.

BC

 

How long to you let the O2s warm up before firing her up?

 

I have headers and I always wait until my speedo needle goes to zero before I start. No problems

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try next time I go for a spin. It does seem that it happens within a couple miles after I start a trip.

 

I usually let them warm up for at least 10 seconds or a little more.. a while after it says "Corvette by Chevrolet".