Update - Excercising the ABS motor
I just don't get into ABS stops very often, need to use that thing more often I guess.
In my 2000, this is a real pain, as the module is wedged between the radiator and the power steering, and has no connector to directly access the motor contacts. Gotta remove the EBCM to get to it.
This time, running 10-second passes on the battery charger through a 15-amp fuse, the little motor just didn't sound too healthy. It started slow, as expected. But even after a few passes, when it loosened up and dropped to 5-6 amps, it would speed-up, slow-down intermittantly. It never really cleaned up and ran free and constant.
I fear that I may eventually be in for a new BPMV/motor unit.
1. My understanding is that no one offers a rebuilt unit, and you can't even buy the BPMV motor/valve portion without the EBCM electronic/solenoid portion attached. $1400+, even through our wholesale friends.
Are there any options, other than a wrecking yard?
2. And, If you do get a new unit, you can't replace the BPMV and drive the car until the dealer does a Tech II fluid bleed?
Is this true? Any way to get the brakes to work well enough to drive the car to the dealer, say, at 4:00 am or something?
3. I'm thinking of drilling/tapping a wire directly to the Pin 8 motor connection so I can "excercise" the motor without a 3-hour teardown.
Anyone ever tried that? I understand the later models have a connector that can access the motor wire - no such luck for me.
I know - "Hammer the brakes while driving in a rainstorm" is everybody's solution to the sticky ABS motor. But that solution has downsides for me.
DG
Get the rear of the car SAFELY up on jackstands(tires off the ground),start it,put it in second and get the speedo over 15 mph,with the traction control on.
You can exercise the ABS motor for as long as you want-when the traction control sees the rear wheels spinning,and the front wheels not spinning,it begins to do it's thing,and it'll do it as long as you keep the speedo above appx 15mph.
The key phrase here is "SAFELY up on jackstands"!
You can drive the car just fine with a bad EBCM,your brakes just won't have the anti lock feature,and traction control won't work-If it ever comes to that,just be a little careful and you'll be fine
I just don't get into ABS stops very often, need to use that thing more often I guess.
In my 2000, this is a real pain, as the module is wedged between the radiator and the power steering, and has no connector to directly access the motor contacts. Gotta remove the EBCM to get to it.
This time, running 10-second passes on the battery charger through a 15-amp fuse, the little motor just didn't sound too healthy. It started slow, as expected. But even after a few passes, when it loosened up and dropped to 5-6 amps, it would speed-up, slow-down intermittantly. It never really cleaned up and ran free and constant.
I fear that I may eventually be in for a new BPMV/motor unit.
1. My understanding is that no one offers a rebuilt unit, and you can't even buy the BPMV motor/valve portion without the EBCM electronic/solenoid portion attached. $1400+, even through our wholesale friends.
Are there any options, other than a wrecking yard?
2. And, If you do get a new unit, you can't replace the BPMV and drive the car until the dealer does a Tech II fluid bleed?
Is this true? Any way to get the brakes to work well enough to drive the car to the dealer, say, at 4:00 am or something?
3. I'm thinking of drilling/tapping a wire directly to the Pin 8 motor connection so I can "excercise" the motor without a 3-hour teardown.
Anyone ever tried that? I understand the later models have a connector that can access the motor wire - no such luck for me.
I know - "Hammer the brakes while driving in a rainstorm" is everybody's solution to the sticky ABS motor. But that solution has downsides for me.
DG
Get the rear of the car SAFELY up on jackstands(tires off the ground),start it,put it in second and get the speedo over 15 mph,with the traction control on.
You can exercise the ABS motor for as long as you want-when the traction control sees the rear wheels spinning,and the front wheels not spinning,it begins to do it's thing,and it'll do it as long as you keep the speedo above appx 15mph.
The key phrase here is "SAFELY up on jackstands"!
You can drive the car just fine with a bad EBCM,your brakes just won't have the anti lock feature,and traction control won't work-If it ever comes to that,just be a little careful and you'll be fine
I was lucky enough to find a brand new BPMV from a forum member for a very good price.
I too had the same dilemma of changing out the pump myself and then having to pay someone with a Tech II to bleed the pump. I ended up having a local shop do the whole job for $130. Money well spent in my book.
If you change it yourself, I don’t see why you could not just bleed the brakes normally, leave the EBCM disconnected and drive to a shop with a TECH II to bleed the pump.
BTW, my old pump wanted to pull near 20 amps.
http://www.absfixer.com/
I was lucky enough to find a brand new BPMV from a forum member for a very good price.
I too had the same dilemma of changing out the pump myself and then having to pay someone with a Tech II to bleed the pump. I ended up having a local shop do the whole job for $130. Money well spent in my book.
If you change it yourself, I don’t see why you could not just bleed the brakes normally, leave the EBCM disconnected and drive to a shop with a TECH II to bleed the pump.
BTW, my old pump wanted to pull near 20 amps.
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Carcass, that's a fantastic idea. Never would have thought of that.
I've gotta try it, just sounds too cool. A whole lot better than 4 hours under the hood.
Of course, I got really enthused after I "excercised" the motor the other day. Naturally, I had to test it to be sure it was working correctly. So, we did a few 2nd gear roll-ons - really lit up the traction control. It worked good though, kept me out of the ditch.
Glad to hear it's possible to find a used unit. Hope I won't need one, but probably just a matter of time.
Good to know there may be a way to limp the car to the dealer after a BPMV swap. I love doing my own work, and of course hate paying $140per hr.
I knew about ABSfixer; but upon investigating, I think he only works on the EBCM, not the BPMV with the motor????
DG
Get the rear of the car SAFELY up on jackstands(tires off the ground),start it,put it in second and get the speedo over 15 mph,with the traction control on.
You can exercise the ABS motor for as long as you want-when the traction control sees the rear wheels spinning,and the front wheels not spinning,it begins to do it's thing,and it'll do it as long as you keep the speedo above appx 15mph.
The key phrase here is "SAFELY up on jackstands"!
Excuse my ignorance, but will that work on an '04 too.......?
Would I leave the AH/TC both on?
Thanks.....
Find a place or buddy with a tech2 and do the automated bleed, you'd be surprised at the gunk that builds up over time.
It gets very expensive lending it out, as the insurance cost is a bit heavy as the replacement cost is around $5K since I have the candi module adapters too.
I would think some of the better shops in your area might have one.
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ghtmare-2.html
And I can only positively say that this method works on a '98 model,because that's what I've got.
It SHOULD work on all years,but I can't say for sure-best thing to do is try it on your car.
BE SURE the car is SAFELY up on the stands...(or have it aimed at something big and soft in case it falls off...)
To clarify-the jackstand method only "exercises" the ABS pump MOTOR-do not open any bleed valves while doing this operation,or you're liable to end up with real problems,requiring an expensive visit to the stealership.



















