Hurst Shifter Noise?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Armada Michigan
Hurst Shifter Noise?
I just removed the stock 6 speed shifter from my 2004 Coupe because I felt it was too sloppy. Replaced it with a Hurst Billet Plus. When I road tested it, I noticed a noise that I hadn't heard before. When I let out the clutch, I hear a "whirring" sound coming from somewhere. Best I can liken it to is the sound of a throwout bearing going bad? I hear it in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, slightly less in 4th & 5th, then not at all in 6th. I took it to the dealer and they say it's coming from the shifter, although I cannot feel any vibration coming through the stick. An option is to put the stock unit back in and see if the noise goes away, but I thought I'd solicit some input from the forum to see if anyone has any thoughts. Why would changing the shifter result in this type of noise? Thanks for any feedback you can provide.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
That's unfortunately the trade off you must accept with some of the after market all billet shifters that don't use oem type rubber isolation.
You either have to accept it because you're getting somewhat better precise shifts (but stiffer) or look for something else. Some owners change shifters as often as others change their shorts in pursuit of that elusive "best" shifter.
If you want quiet and vibration resistant, chose something with rubber isolation which will tame the noise and vibration entering the cabin. That seems to be (right now anyway), either the C6/Z06 shifter or the MGW shifter. There might be others, but I quit trying to keep up with all of the claims.
When I was researching for an after market shifter I came to the conclusion that the B&M "Sport" shifter would accomplish what I wanted. It uses the same rubber isolated lever as the oem shifters. That was prior to the
C6/Z06 shifter reviews and much before the MGW release. I probably won't be changing it out anytime soon.
Sometimes a simple **** change can reduce the irritation. Some have used DIY solutions (tennis *****) to quiet their shifter, but I think that's kind of a silly bandaid solution for the problem.
You either have to accept it because you're getting somewhat better precise shifts (but stiffer) or look for something else. Some owners change shifters as often as others change their shorts in pursuit of that elusive "best" shifter.
If you want quiet and vibration resistant, chose something with rubber isolation which will tame the noise and vibration entering the cabin. That seems to be (right now anyway), either the C6/Z06 shifter or the MGW shifter. There might be others, but I quit trying to keep up with all of the claims.
When I was researching for an after market shifter I came to the conclusion that the B&M "Sport" shifter would accomplish what I wanted. It uses the same rubber isolated lever as the oem shifters. That was prior to the
C6/Z06 shifter reviews and much before the MGW release. I probably won't be changing it out anytime soon.Sometimes a simple **** change can reduce the irritation. Some have used DIY solutions (tennis *****) to quiet their shifter, but I think that's kind of a silly bandaid solution for the problem.
Last edited by hotwheels57; May 6, 2010 at 07:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Armada Michigan
Yes, I did turn the gasket over like suggested in the instructions. I may look into the C6/Z06 unit or the others mentioned. It's not that I can't live with it, but it's annoying. Definitely stiffer than the factory. Sometimes I still have to hunt for the gates for certain gears.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,405
Likes: 26
From: Whippany NJ
CI 6-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
NCM Sinkhole Donor
You will hear alot more drive train noise that the oem shifter silenced. That is why i put gobs of teflon tape on the shifter threads before twisting on the oem **** to quiet it down. It helped alot but if you listen close you will hear the TO bearing spinning.Love my hurst!
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
B&M bought out HURST a few years ago, but both still have different shifters available from each other.
The B&M model #45044 is what I bought. It has a rubber isolated lever similar to oem and unlike the HURST shifter. I get no noise or vibration through it. I use a HURST **** on mine which is obviously a bit heavier than the oem ****. With the brass insert inside the 2.25" ****, it can be tightened up against the jamb nut really tight. The oem **** uses that darn "demon pin" which could be part of the issue combined with the HURST all billet shifter.
It might be considered "ol' school" by some because the shift throws are not as short as more recent shifters. That doesn't bother me, but it apparently does some owners.
There is another B&M shifter with a solid lever w/o isolation. I don't see it listed on their website anymore, but many still use and swear by them. There's always some trade off...
The B&M model #45044 is what I bought. It has a rubber isolated lever similar to oem and unlike the HURST shifter. I get no noise or vibration through it. I use a HURST **** on mine which is obviously a bit heavier than the oem ****. With the brass insert inside the 2.25" ****, it can be tightened up against the jamb nut really tight. The oem **** uses that darn "demon pin" which could be part of the issue combined with the HURST all billet shifter.
It might be considered "ol' school" by some because the shift throws are not as short as more recent shifters. That doesn't bother me, but it apparently does some owners.
There is another B&M shifter with a solid lever w/o isolation. I don't see it listed on their website anymore, but many still use and swear by them. There's always some trade off...
Last edited by hotwheels57; May 6, 2010 at 08:15 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 7
From: LaPine Oregon
Which Hurst?
Which Hurst shifter did you purchase, the C5 3915085 or the C63915086 ( pictured) ? 
I have installed two, one C5 and one C6. The C6 doesn't have a noise issue. I have adjusted the lateral bias using the lightest springs and installed the Vernom detent bolt (the anti-venom version is to use a .060 thk copper washer). http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...5-non-z06.html
For the C5 Hurst and the many C6Z06 shifter assemblies I have adopted Patch's idea from 2005 of using a modified rubber plumbing cap as a isolator. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...tallation.html
I have installed two, one C5 and one C6. The C6 doesn't have a noise issue. I have adjusted the lateral bias using the lightest springs and installed the Vernom detent bolt (the anti-venom version is to use a .060 thk copper washer). http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...5-non-z06.html
For the C5 Hurst and the many C6Z06 shifter assemblies I have adopted Patch's idea from 2005 of using a modified rubber plumbing cap as a isolator. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...tallation.html
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Armada Michigan
Just as a follow up on my original post....spoke with Hurst today and they confirmed the noise issue. Said the Billet Plus is a race application so I should expect to get some translation of noise from the driveline. I am going to try a couple of the hints you people have provided in your responses to see if I can get a little improvement. Other than that, just suck it up I guess. Anyway, thanks for your usual excellent inputs...this is a valuable forum.
