last couple of days i noticed since I've done the following,

new plugs and wires, 41-111 and GM red
harmonic balancer-GM, belts, power steering fluid flush
PCV hose,custom
mobile 1 trans fluid and lucas trans oil,
rear axle with additive oil,
fuel filter, GM w/ regulator
brake pads-GMPartshouse, front right wheel hub,,brake fluid full flush,
tires, F1 GS-D3
battery,
oil change, mobil 1 with lucas oil today,
oil pressure relocation kit w/ sensor
Temp sensor,
and on and on,

UPDATE AND CONFUSED
went to car started and got low oil level, pressure good etc. Checked level was 1-1/2 low even tho I did oil change yesterday. Filled up started car same message. WTF I don't think I knocked off the wire on the oil filter.

Anyone!!!!!! ET OR BILL ANYONE


now the questions,

after i did the fuel filter, in the morning it takes longer to start but only in the morning. meaning instead of turn the key turn instant start, now turn the key and an extra 3-5 seconds go by then it starts but seems labored. like it didn't maintain pressure the night before, I do let the pump run till it stops before starting in the morning.

and, I also now hear what is either a piston slap or timing chain slap, can you tell the difference between the two???? if so, how? car has 114,300 on it. oil change was today but this started after the fuel filter change on Saturday. its not loud loud but is consistent. seems steady after the oil change today, hope it makes sense.

with all the change and care I've done since getting it in August 09 Im nervous, but I know these engines are bullet proof, i dont Track the car, I dont smoke the tires, but i do take off and i do speed, and I always let the car warm up in the morning to 125 degrees water, 60 oil and never play with it till the tranny is at 125 or higher.

i can check basic things but not good at going into the real deep diagnostics of the engine.

any help would be cool, thanks

 

Ttt

 

So you did an oil change yesterday, and filled the engine up to the required capacity......I don't see how you could be 1.5 quarts low. So it sounds like the engine is now overfilled, since you added more oil.

The oil level sensor is not by the filter...the oil temp is. So inspect the wiring to the oil level sensor.






What is the pressure at the rail? Any bleed down?

 

i used new mobil filter, 4 quarts mobile 1 and one quart lucas oil total 5, I checked car it showed near bottom of dipstick put one in waited a few minutes put in 1/2 and now right at top of add line. I have the oil pressure relocation kit and it read 43 to 50 cold which is about where it is every morning till it warms up. drove the car home yesterday with no warnings.

will check the wiring

 

Not sure I understand the method to the madness with the oil. If you started the car with only 5 quarts in it, then the low oil level makes sense. Why you would not put in 6.5 quarts with an oil change confuses me. Oh well, I'm sure it makes sense to you.

 

according to book 6 with a new filter so i knew i was one low live to learn, light warning out now took a few though. wont do that again.

It did however make me look at the DTC'S again and I have the following codes even after i cleared them a couple weeks ago

IPC U1096 H
BCM U1064 H
PCM U1016 H

I looked them up in the book but dont know what the fix is

would these have anything to do with the famous door exposed wires, I have not looked at them yet

 

Not trying to split hairs, but both the owners manual and service manual call for a total of 6.5 quarts with filter change.

Could be a variety of things.....even just a low battery, disconnecting the battery, etc.

 

you are correct was looking at trans fluid, cant believe i didnt pay more attention,

New battery not been disconnected, reset the codes but there back.

 

Again, not trying to split hairs, but that's not correct either. For an auto, fluid and filter change, the capacity is 5 quarts; 10.8 for an overhaul. The manual transmission is 4.1 quarts.

I've got the book right in front of me, so we can do this all day......kidding.

Check your battery voltage (at the battery). If those systems are not communicating, you'll know in a big hurry.

 

ok you said it 5 quarts fluid and filter, thats what i said,
checked the voltage as it should be I appreciate your help with this

 

I would keep an eye on it. Might be a sign the ignition switch is on it's way out. You can look at the left door accordian tube wiring, but thing will typically go crazy if the class 2 serial buss shorts there. The important thing is that you do not have an "no comm" messages when pulling codes.

 

will look at it, read the other post and thought the same thing, guess just confused because when i changed the fuel filter it now starts hard in the morning, it cranks a bit before firing up, then the rest of the day it works great. bought the filter from GM everything sounds good when turning the key on, the pump cycles and shuts off in a few seconds. didnt know if this was a sign of something or not.

 

Now that your engine is taking longer to crank and fire, most likely your battery output voltage is dropping LOW. When the engine is COLD, attach a DC Voltmeter directly to the battery terminals. Log that voltage.

Then,,,have a friend start the car and carefully observe the battery voltage. It will drop when the starter hits. Its that drop in voltage that is causing those U series DTCs to pop. If your battery is old or not fully charged, it will allow the voltage to drop very low. Low enough for modules to drop off line due to under voltage conditions.

Please post the voltage drop value during cranking and then the battery voltage with the engine running.

BC

 

will do and thanks again Bill, will get back to this when i get the chance to do it.

 

Bill,

with the analog meter it showed 12.9 volts car off, doors closed
when i started the car it dropped to 11 volts
after start the alt kicked in went to 14.5-15

the battery is a few months old, so that seems like normal numbers to me.

still dont understand the cold hard starting issue since filter on saturday

Any idea's

 

The voltage looks normal so,, that rules that theory out.

Another area to look at is the ignition switch. All modules that stay active when the car shuts down, have two power supplies:

Hot (12 VDC) at all times and a voltage from the ignition switch called (Hot n RUN and START)

Some modules are only powered by the Hot in RUN and Start supply)

If the voltage that is supplied to the module comes from the ignition switch is having issues because of bad contacts inside the switch, it could cause the same U seres DTC.

Just find the module fuse and read it at ignition on and during cranking. There are two holes on top of each fuse. Those are test points.

I have also seen fuses that fit poorly in the fuse holder and or have corroded post/spade connections.

Heres a post that I made to fix bad ignition switches:

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

The BCM and PCM are excellent examples of modules powered by multiple power supplies.

BC

 

Could it be that the fuel filter/pressure regulator installed is bad or one of the connectors is leaking (would expect some lean codes). As Lucky suggested, need to check the pressure with a gauge.

 

ok Bill, this is what I did today,

I didnt read any of the ohms, i just pulled out the ignition and found what everyone seems to find, see inclosed pic's. took ohms after all correct based on your post.

I also tightened ground wires drivers side frame and pass side frame, I pulled the battery and wire brushed the one that was with corrosion and dio greased all of them. put everything back together and started car, though it was better I got all the codes back reset them and got them back again, all showing (H) how can it show history when it was started/stopped.

Whats next????

 

You do not want to apply dielectric grease to an internal electrical contact, or where two contacts will mate. Dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor. If you have applied dielectric grease to the contacts of the ignition switch, you need to disassemble it, and clean them with contact cleaner. Same applies for the battery connections. Dielectric grease should only be used as a topical treatment....not at the contact interface.

 

What part says I did everything. I did the ground wires. It's late but maybe I didn't explain myself very well. I will atempt to explain in smaller more detailed word for word details as to what I do I. The future.

I am greatful for everyones help on this forum but it seems there are people who just wait to make people sound stupid or the inability to comprehend what instructions are. Though I am new to the vette and u am not an electrical wizard. Bill's assume I must hav some intelligence since I do teach people how to fly and I also fly Corp jets. Please do not come on my fact finding and learning tours to find a way to make yourself seem smarter than I. Everyone has there own area of intelligence and where it lies. A simple way of saying this would of been did you follow the directions, the grease is for the body grounds only not electrical. Things like that. Now with me saying this might **** you off and that is not my intention as I am always open to learning but I am not open to being degraded or put down and will not except it either.
So in the future if you want to help please but if you want to make fun or feel better for yourself keep it to yourself