HELLLP with Clutch pedal
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Katy TX
HELLLP with Clutch pedal
I just purchased a brand new master & slave and installed it. Then bled the system and the clutch pedal is still on the floor. What could have been done wrong?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,447
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From: Katy TX
I tried bleeding it by popping the clutch pedal up and stomping the clutch pedal to the floor a few times as well as regularly pumping the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal just sits on the floor and when I pop it up and touch the pedal it just falls to the floor. That part is a new OEM master and new OEM slave.
Tech Contributor
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From: Dyer, IN
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 1
From: Katy TX
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,401
Likes: 1,141
From: Dyer, IN
1) starting out with a full reservoir
2) after pumping, holding the pedal to the floor, then the bleeder is cracked...then closed. You never allow the pedal to come off the floor, until the bleeder is closed again.
Please explain the steps in detail. Stating that you are "stomping" the pedal to the floor, gives one the impression you don't know what you are doing.
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Pro
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From: Waco Texas
As much as they complain about tired legs during this, I rather the helper do the pumping and checking the master resovoir while I do the bleeding. This way I can ensure it is being opened and shut correctly as to not reintroduce air back into the system. I have the pumper(friend, old lady) pump about 15 times and hold the last pump about 3/4 the wayt to the floor. Then I crack the bleeder open and shut pretty quick. You may just see nothing coming out ( air) or some fluid coming out. Even after fluid is coming out of the bleeder, I continue about another 5 bleeds to ensure an airfree system. In all honesty, it takes around an hour of bleeding and 2 pints of dot4 fluid. After you get your clutch back, a periodic inspection of fluid in the resovoir is all you need. If it is not clear anymore, use a turkey baster and remove old and replace with new in the resovoir.. Good luck and when you are about to give up, you are almost there. Motto works for me most of the time
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,447
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From: Katy TX
and you are doing the following:
1) starting out with a full reservoir
2) after pumping, holding the pedal to the floor, then the bleeder is cracked...then closed. You never allow the pedal to come off the floor, until the bleeder is closed again.
Please explain the steps in detail. Stating that you are "stomping" the pedal to the floor, gives one the impression you don't know what you are doing.
1) starting out with a full reservoir
2) after pumping, holding the pedal to the floor, then the bleeder is cracked...then closed. You never allow the pedal to come off the floor, until the bleeder is closed again.
Please explain the steps in detail. Stating that you are "stomping" the pedal to the floor, gives one the impression you don't know what you are doing.
Should we have bench bled the master before putting it in?
Last edited by All_Motor_C5LS6; May 17, 2010 at 01:31 PM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 491
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From: AZ
Why would you go through the trouble (and cost) of installing a new slave and not add a remote bleeder??? With one, you could just use a Motive power bleeder or Mityvac and bleed the system without having to touch the pedal.
I have bled clutch systems with both new master and slaves. It will take at least an hour. Try to get two helpers. One to pump the pedal and one to add fluid while you open and close the bleeder screw. It'll go faster that way since one of you won't have to stop and add more fluid constantly.
I have bled clutch systems with both new master and slaves. It will take at least an hour. Try to get two helpers. One to pump the pedal and one to add fluid while you open and close the bleeder screw. It'll go faster that way since one of you won't have to stop and add more fluid constantly.
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