Steering rack/balancer replacement experts, come on in!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 889
From: South Western Ontario
So, the people posting that you're supposed to install these weights does the manual give a part number? Are they all the same? My balancer appears to have a weight in it but I couldn't possibly transfer that weight since it's installed in a blind hole.
As for some of the other questions.
I pinned my new balancer by just drilling a hole and putting in a roll pin. I believe it was 3/16" but I'm not sure. Might have also been 5/16". There is a tool to line the drill bit up with the timing chain key but it's expensive.
As for bleeding, just run the car on stands and turned the wheels back and forth a bunch of times lock to lock. Just make sure the resevoir has fluid in it while doing this.
Peter
As for some of the other questions.
I pinned my new balancer by just drilling a hole and putting in a roll pin. I believe it was 3/16" but I'm not sure. Might have also been 5/16". There is a tool to line the drill bit up with the timing chain key but it's expensive.
As for bleeding, just run the car on stands and turned the wheels back and forth a bunch of times lock to lock. Just make sure the resevoir has fluid in it while doing this.
Peter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 889
From: South Western Ontario
It looks like there is something in the hole just past the 6 o'clock position and also possibly in the 12 o'clock hole. Those spots (especially the bottom one) look like one of the holes on my balancer. One of the holes on mine appears to have something in it. Still, it's a blind hole so it's not like I could just push it out and my Powerbond doesn't have any matching holes anyways.
I do have other shallow holes but they don't have anything in them.
Peter
I do have other shallow holes but they don't have anything in them.
Peter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: Everett WA
There was a recent discussion about the balance weights here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...alancer-2.html
Starting with my post #25. I concluded that you can not transfer the weights from a stock balancer to a Powerbond balancer (or probably any aftermarket balancer), so I installed it "as is". No problems with vibration.
Paul
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...alancer-2.html
Starting with my post #25. I concluded that you can not transfer the weights from a stock balancer to a Powerbond balancer (or probably any aftermarket balancer), so I installed it "as is". No problems with vibration.
Paul
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: Everett WA
Paul
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,239
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From: Dyer, IN
My parts manual only shows the 12.7mm and 19.0mm lengths, and the part numbers are: 3890192 and 3890193 respectively.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,239
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From: Dyer, IN
Racer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach VA
Great info Guys. I'm replacing the balancer on my 2000 this Saturday. I bought the SUM-C2501 from Summit Racing.
Glad to hear I don't have to remove the water pump. If I had to do that I was going to replace the oil pump with a hi-volume unit.
I'll still have to remove the radiator, right?
Glad to hear I don't have to remove the water pump. If I had to do that I was going to replace the oil pump with a hi-volume unit.
I'll still have to remove the radiator, right?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 199
Likes: 2
From: Toronto
Nope, radiator can stay in! You'll see once you remove the steering gear (rack), there's actually quite a bit of room to work in.
The service manual instructions for removing the rack are actually good. Technically, you don't have to lower the cradle, but be prepared for some twisting, wriggling, and choice words when pulling the rack out. But it will come out.
The service manual instructions for removing the rack are actually good. Technically, you don't have to lower the cradle, but be prepared for some twisting, wriggling, and choice words when pulling the rack out. But it will come out.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: Everett WA
Paul
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 199
Likes: 2
From: Toronto
It does come out without loosening/removing the EBCM bracket, but I'm sure that would make it easier. I'm almost ready to put my rack back in, so I might try that to ease the burden. I didn't loosen the cradle either.
Word of wisdom when you're seating the new balancer, if you're using a threaded rod/washer tool: lubricate the threads with oil or grease where the driving nut (the one you're wrenching to pull the balancer on) is. Oil the mating surface of the nut and washers too. I didn't at first, and the threads on the rod started galling. I should know better from using pullers in the past.... always oil up your shaft!!
It took a bit of force, but the tool works like a charm and ensures no crank damage. I made mine out of grade 2 M16 x 2.0 steel rod, plenty strong enough for this task. I didn't heat the balancer, or oil the crank.
Word of wisdom when you're seating the new balancer, if you're using a threaded rod/washer tool: lubricate the threads with oil or grease where the driving nut (the one you're wrenching to pull the balancer on) is. Oil the mating surface of the nut and washers too. I didn't at first, and the threads on the rod started galling. I should know better from using pullers in the past.... always oil up your shaft!!
It took a bit of force, but the tool works like a charm and ensures no crank damage. I made mine out of grade 2 M16 x 2.0 steel rod, plenty strong enough for this task. I didn't heat the balancer, or oil the crank.
Last edited by puzzleboy; May 20, 2010 at 07:12 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,239
Likes: 1,091
From: Dyer, IN
You mean M16 x 2.0....right?
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
I removed my bracket last night because that's what the manual said and it was a pain - I have a DRM radiator/oil cooler which is thicker than the stock radiator, so I had to remove the fans so the bracket would clear them and could come out the bottom. Removing the fans is not much fun because of the oil lines are in the way.
I was just wondering if there was an easier way.
Thanks.
I was just wondering if there was an easier way.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 199
Likes: 2
From: Toronto
My bad, yes it's indeed M16.
Just put the rack back in. The good news? It's actually easier than pulling it out, could be the learning curve..... but I put it in without loosening the bracket or cradle, wasn't bad at all. Just takes a few rotations, back and forth in both directions, and a bit of patience. Carefully squeeze the rack input shaft under the brake lines, and you're home free....
Started the car prior to rack installation for 30 seconds to check for wobble, no water pump, no steering gear, etc., no problem. My reward? Wobble-free.
It is a job, this crazy design, but shouldn't intimidate anyone with a few good tools. You'll get some satisfaction once the balancer is on, and you're buttoning everything back up....
Just put the rack back in. The good news? It's actually easier than pulling it out, could be the learning curve..... but I put it in without loosening the bracket or cradle, wasn't bad at all. Just takes a few rotations, back and forth in both directions, and a bit of patience. Carefully squeeze the rack input shaft under the brake lines, and you're home free....
Started the car prior to rack installation for 30 seconds to check for wobble, no water pump, no steering gear, etc., no problem. My reward? Wobble-free.
It is a job, this crazy design, but shouldn't intimidate anyone with a few good tools. You'll get some satisfaction once the balancer is on, and you're buttoning everything back up....
Last edited by puzzleboy; May 20, 2010 at 07:15 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
Glad to hear everything worked out for you, puzzleboy. I worked on mine a little tonight - I removed my power steering cooler - I disconnected the hose at the bottom of the power steering reservoir and at the rubber hose connection where it meets the return pipe from the rack. It's a little tight getting a wrench on the nut holding the return pipe into the rack - not much room due to the brake lines from the EBCM and the supply pipe from the rack, and removed the pinch bolt - this is also a little tough to access due to the brake lines, and you need to turn the steering wheel to get a decent shot at the bolt. I also loosened the cradle bolts and removed the final bolt to the rack. I am going to save removal of the rack for tomorrow night. Then the fun begins - not only am I going to replace the balancer, but also the timing chain, water pump, tensioners, and idlers.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,239
Likes: 1,091
From: Dyer, IN
Glad to hear everything worked out for you, puzzleboy. I worked on mine a little tonight - I removed my power steering cooler - I disconnected the hose at the bottom of the power steering reservoir and at the rubber hose connection where it meets the return pipe from the rack. It's a little tight getting a wrench on the nut holding the return pipe into the rack - not much room due to the brake lines from the EBCM and the supply pipe from the rack, and removed the pinch bolt - this is also a little tough to access due to the brake lines, and you need to turn the steering wheel to get a decent shot at the bolt. I also loosened the cradle bolts and removed the final bolt to the rack. I am going to save removal of the rack for tomorrow night. Then the fun begins - not only am I going to replace the balancer, but also the timing chain, water pump, tensioners, and idlers.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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