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I did secure the wheel based on recomendations, but I am a little confused as to why. Can someone explain?
Thanks.
Steve
I think it's because if you move the steering wheel after it's disconnected from the rack it will be out of alignement when you put it back on and your steering wheel won't be centered. But don't quote me until somebody more knowledgeable pipes in.
I looked at the instructions that came with my hi-volume oil pump and it said there might be some interference with the timing chain cover which would require milling a little off the inside surface of the cover. Has anybody ran into this?
Also, I'm not sure of the befits of replacing the timing chain with a double roller chain. I know it's stronger and less prone to breaking but is there any other benefit? Can I replace just the chain or should I put new gears in too?
BTW, my C5 has 74K miles on it.
Last edited by ShootCraps; May 21, 2010 at 10:27 AM.
Reason: Added BTW.
Hey fellas, unfortunately I am probably going to have to undertake this job myself. I tried to ask around and find a decent shop in my area (Ft. Myers) that can do the work for me but nothing as of yet. I travel a lot for work and don't have a ton of time to invest but it needs to be done and I suppose it will be good experience.
Couple of questions...what's the best place to start with a job like this...buy a service manual I assume? Something I can get from a dealer or is there an aftermarket version that's better?
Was also wondering if there are any special tools I will need? Are there any other parts that I should replace since stuff is going to be tore up already under there?
How many hours should I expect to devote to this? I'm reasonably "mechanically inclined" and do all maintenance on my vehicles myself. I've been lucky that I haven't had any serious problems for the last few years so I don't really know of any good repair shops around here.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by ShootCraps
I think it's because if you move the steering wheel after it's disconnected from the rack it will be out of alignement when you put it back on and your steering wheel won't be centered. But don't quote me until somebody more knowledgeable pipes in.
Not really. There is a steering wheel position sensor inside the steering column, and if the steering shaft were to be rotated either too far, or if the steering shaft were rotated 360* (for example), the sensor will, or could be damaged, and it requires dis-assembly of much of the steering column/steering wheel to replace. It's a necessary component of the active handling system.
Hey fellas, unfortunately I am probably going to have to undertake this job myself. I tried to ask around and find a decent shop in my area (Ft. Myers) that can do the work for me but nothing as of yet. I travel a lot for work and don't have a ton of time to invest but it needs to be done and I suppose it will be good experience.
Couple of questions...what's the best place to start with a job like this...buy a service manual I assume? Something I can get from a dealer or is there an aftermarket version that's better?
Was also wondering if there are any special tools I will need? Are there any other parts that I should replace since stuff is going to be tore up already under there?
How many hours should I expect to devote to this? I'm reasonably "mechanically inclined" and do all maintenance on my vehicles myself. I've been lucky that I haven't had any serious problems for the last few years so I don't really know of any good repair shops around here.
Any resources on the web that I should check out?
<sorry for the mini-thread hijack>
I would buy the service manuals from Gene Culley at GM Parts House -I think they are about $140
As for the balancer, the two of choice seem to be the Powerbond and the ATI. I went with the ATI and pinned it.
I took my time and probably had a good 12 hrs into the job, and that included upgrading the timing chain to an LS2 chain and replacing the water pump. In all honesty, the hardest part is removing the steering rack - the hose connections are tough to get to and I have an oil cooler so snaking it out through the additional lines. The rest of the job is fairly straightforward.
I did secure the wheel based on recomendations, but I am a little confused as to why. Can someone explain?
Thanks.
Steve
Originally Posted by ShootCraps
I think it's because if you move the steering wheel after it's disconnected from the rack it will be out of alignement when you put it back on and your steering wheel won't be centered. But don't quote me until somebody more knowledgeable pipes in.
I looked at the instructions that came with my hi-volume oil pump and it said there might be some interference with the timing chain cover which would require milling a little off the inside surface of the cover. Has anybody ran into this?
Also, I'm not sure of the befits of replacing the timing chain with a double roller chain. I know it's stronger and less prone to breaking but is there any other benefit? Can I replace just the chain or should I put new gears in too?
BTW, my C5 has 74K miles on it.
The steering sensor is only half of the reason, the other half is due to the airbag's clock spring that can olny be turned so far before breaking the wires.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by ajg1915
The steering sensor is only half of the reason, the other half is due to the airbag's clock spring that can olny be turned so far before breaking the wires.
Yep. Forgot about the AB clock spring. Thanks Tony.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by ajg1915
Hey Bob,
I was never to worried about the steering sensor as I was the airbag clock spring, since it's a PIA getting the steering wheel off.
I always use a bungie cord on the steering wheel down the brake pedal to keep it from turning.
Bungie sounds like a good idea. I don't have AH on my FRC, but I have seen and/or heard of others who have experienced "issues" from the steering wheel being rotated too far while disconnected.
Bungie sounds like a good idea. I don't have AH on my FRC, but I have seen and/or heard of others who have experienced "issues" from the steering wheel being rotated too far while disconnected.
Yeah, the steering sensor looks for a certain voltage at center, etc ... and if it off it will give you ABS, Active Handling Problems.
Especially if you pull of and rebuild suspension and you're out of alignment you'll get the ABS, Active Handling issues until you get your car re-aligned.
Bungie sounds like a good idea. I don't have AH on my FRC, but I have seen and/or heard of others who have experienced "issues" from the steering wheel being rotated too far while disconnected.
Fellow FRC / non AH owner here (yesss!!! ), and although we don't have the system installed, we do indeed have the position sensor in the wheel.
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