Installing kooks headers
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Owasso Oklahoma
Installing kooks headers
I am installing kooks headers on my 1998 vette. I have headers, cats, and x pipe. My questions is how to related. I see these how to websites about how to install LGs but I dont see them on Kooks. I am wondering if they go in the same way. Also, I have heard that they can be installed from the top on both sides (ie might have to loosen motor mounts and lift to one side 
) Also is there anything that I should add to that area like insulation around the high flow cats. How about the air tubes. Do I want to reconnect all of them or... Thanks for the help and sorry for the long message.
Thanks
Scott
) Also is there anything that I should add to that area like insulation around the high flow cats. How about the air tubes. Do I want to reconnect all of them or... Thanks for the help and sorry for the long message.Thanks
Scott
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 5
From: Syracuse New York
Kooks makes a great header. Ok, I will walk you through this. Kooks need you to loosen the engine mount bolts almost all the way. Then you will have to jack up the side of the engine that you are installing the header on. On the passenger side, you need to remove the valve covers, exhaust manifolds(obviously), coil packs, plugs, plug wires, and the starter. Then you would jack up the passenger side with a floor jack and it will slip right on it. The driver side you need to remove valve cover, plugs, plug wires, plugs, and the steering shaft that comes from the inside of the car to the steering rack. You will then jack up the drivers side of the engine and it will pop right in. Good luck!!
Advanced
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Houston texas
So I'm installing the kooks also, I have the factory headers out.. And I'm at the point to start going back with the kooks. My question is how far will the motor move? The last thing I want to do is to get in a bind and break, twist or tweak something since the motor is still connected to the drive train....
Just for knowledge, has anyone taken the heads off to do this?
Thanks mike
Just for knowledge, has anyone taken the heads off to do this?
Thanks mike
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
There is no need to remove the valve covers, just the coil covers and coils.
And on the drivers side remember to remove the coolant sensor in the front near #1 plug and the oil sensor above the oil filter.
You will also need to pry the engine toward the passenger side while it's jacked up to get the left header to drop in.
Another thing I recommend is to install studs in the front and rear bolt holes in place of bolts on both sides, makes everything lineup a lot easier.
And on the drivers side remember to remove the coolant sensor in the front near #1 plug and the oil sensor above the oil filter.
You will also need to pry the engine toward the passenger side while it's jacked up to get the left header to drop in.
Another thing I recommend is to install studs in the front and rear bolt holes in place of bolts on both sides, makes everything lineup a lot easier.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
There is no need to remove the valve covers, just the coil covers and coils.
And on the drivers side remember to remove the coolant sensor in the front near #1 plug and the oil sensor above the oil filter.
You will also need to pry the engine toward the passenger side while it's jacked up to get the left header to drop in.
Another thing I recommend is to install studs in the front and rear bolt holes in place of bolts on both sides, makes everything lineup a lot easier.
And on the drivers side remember to remove the coolant sensor in the front near #1 plug and the oil sensor above the oil filter.
You will also need to pry the engine toward the passenger side while it's jacked up to get the left header to drop in.
Another thing I recommend is to install studs in the front and rear bolt holes in place of bolts on both sides, makes everything lineup a lot easier.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 165
Likes: 7
From: Newmarket
Kooks makes a great header. Ok, I will walk you through this. Kooks need you to loosen the engine mount bolts almost all the way. Then you will have to jack up the side of the engine that you are installing the header on. On the passenger side, you need to remove the valve covers, exhaust manifolds(obviously), coil packs, plugs, plug wires, and the starter. Then you would jack up the passenger side with a floor jack and it will slip right on it. The driver side you need to remove valve cover, plugs, plug wires, plugs, and the steering shaft that comes from the inside of the car to the steering rack. You will then jack up the drivers side of the engine and it will pop right in. Good luck!!
