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only once and I ended up pulling the hose off the t-stat for a second and then going through the drain and fill procedure again cycling the engine etc. But every other time it was no problem
I have done mine several times with no problem. Just fill it up to the proper level, run it for a while, top it off a bit if necessary, and perhaps check it in a couple of days.
For those who have done it. Did you have a problem getting all the air out of the system? if so how did you do it.
Yes! Watch your temperature gauge closely when you first start driving your car after a coolant change. My car went into some kind of engine protection mode because the coolant temperature spiked due to an air pocket. Several cycles of running the engine to operating temperature and then letting it cool finally worked the air out of the system.
I read that parking with the nose up on ramps or a sloped driveway while doing engine cycles will help.
I have done mine several times with no problem. Just fill it up to the proper level, run it for a while, top it off a bit if necessary, and perhaps check it in a couple of days.
Here is the procedure as written in the shop manual. Works for me every time.......
Start w/ a cold engine
Remove rad. cap
Idle for 1 minute
Install cap
Cycle RPM from idle to 3000 until coolant reaches 210F
Shut off engine
Remove cap
Start engine
Idle for 1 minute
Install cap
Cycle RPM from idle to 3000 until coolant reaches 210F
Shut off engine
Remove cap
Top off
Just drained, flushed and filled with new coolant about a week ago. The procedure above worked perfectly. No issues.
Flushed it with tap water. Drained the coolant and refilled with water. Ran the car and drained again. Then I just ran the car with the hose running in the over flow tank with the drain open until it drained clear.
I haven't disposed of the old coolant yet. Still in jugs in the garage.
Used a 50/50 mix of Dexcool & distilled water for the refill with a bottle of Water Wetter
Last edited by EStreeter; May 27, 2010 at 03:58 PM.
Here is the procedure as written in the shop manual. Works for me every time.......
Start w/ a cold engine
Remove rad. cap
Idle for 1 minute
Install cap
Cycle RPM from idle to 3000 until coolant reaches 210F
Shut off engine
Remove cap
Start engine
Idle for 1 minute
Install cap
Cycle RPM from idle to 3000 until coolant reaches 210F
Shut off engine
Remove cap
Top off
this worked great the only time I've done it
Originally Posted by GETUONE
Be careful when you open the drain valve on the radiator. It does not screw all the way out. just a 1/4 turn is all it takes to open it.
great tip! be careful or you'll be off to the dealer/part store for a new one once your turn it a 1/4, you may have to wiggle it to get it out but do NOT keep turning it.