Could not having the CLB still be an issue. The car is a 2002 Z06. I don't see the error messages associated with the column lock bypass, but from observation it seems associated.

 

if you can move the wheel with the key in, and can hear the click of security disengaging and the sound of pump priming, my money is on the starter

 

Now that I think about it, I don't think I've been able to move the wheel any when I've encountered the no start issues.

 

CLB will not keep your car from starting and you would get a message on the DIC. B\G

 

pull hard, it's pretty heavy without the engine running

 

So with 45+ posts on this thread, given the schematics, information, and the other site's troubleshooting for a no start condition......what have you done?

 

Fortunately, the car has been starting regularly. But when I encounter the no start issue, only momentarily, the car starts again. As far as troubleshooting, I've pulled codes, checked the BCM for contaminents, checked the theft deterent relay, clutch switch, lifted the car, checked the starter wires and grounds for corrosion and tightness, checked battery. I also am in the process of ordering a new key/fob in lew of the key being a culprit. If I run into a no start issue again and I'm home. I plan on getting the multimeter tool a shot to check everything as instructed.

I apologize for not having the time or electrical knowledge to explain the source of my problem any further. I do plan on updating this thread with any news as it develops.

 

Sounds like you are covering the basics, which is good. If this is a frequent event, I would leave the right instrument closeout panel off, so you have easy access to the TDR. That way, you can get a meter on it immediately.

 

have you not changed the starter yet? that's by far the most obvious

 

I probably should. 175$ is cheap insurance vs. Being stranded and calling a wrecker.

 

when my starter was going bad (identical symptoms to yours), it once gave out on a rural highway with no cell reception. thank god for GF who isn't above helping to push start the car

by the way you should be able to find a rebuilt starter for a little over$100, don't pay dealer's parts counter prices. when you do put a new starter in, put a heat shield or reflective wrap over it, this will prevent you from having to replace it again in a few years.

 

Try my old school method of checking the starter.

next time it happens turn your headlights on and maybe even your heater fan on high.
have someone look at the headlights when you try to start it, of they dim noticeably you are getting power to the solenoid but it is not working, and needs replaced.
If they do not dim at all you have other problems.

 

You can just check my post from "glkfam" called random start.... *****THE WIRE COLORS AND PIN CALLOUTS ARE FROM A 97 SCHEMATIC. NOT SURE IF IT HOLDS TRUE FOR ALL NEWER YEARS******

Disconnect the negative lead from battery before connecting clip.
This would be done only if the problem is a intermittent no start and all the gauges lit up but you don't hear the solenoid clicking.

I just went round and round with this. In your case get a alligator clip with about 8 feet of wire attached to it and clip it to the purple wire that is on the solenoid. Walmart sells the clips and wire separately or a Auto parts store does so you can make your own lead up. Make sure it is not touching any other wire on the solenoid so it doesn't short anything else when you reconnect the battery. Put black electrical tape around the clip so only a very little of the tip of the clip shows just enough to attach it to the screw with the purple wire on it that's on the solenoid. Then run this wire into the passenger compartment along with a ground wire into the car from the battery. Connect a 12 volt light to this. I used a 194 socket and bulb. I ran the wires right around the door jam frame and used the hard plastic shield wrapped around wires to prevent the wires from being pinched and grounded when the door closes. When you start the car this light should light every time. If it doesn't you can just keep moving the test light back. Next spot would be on the 12 volt feed from the theft deterrent relay(purple wire on (A2) of the TD relay. Theft relay is located under the toe board passenger side just to the right and above the Body Control Module(the aluminum metal box). There are two relays above the BCM. You want the relay that is closer to the center hump. They are held in by a plastic snap that is on top of the relay holder. A pain to get out. Then on the back of the relay, connect the test light to the "A2" contact, purple wire on the relay. Watch light every time you try to start the car, if this doesn't work then move onto the Yellow wire on the TD relay, pin C2. So forth and so on.

 

I had a similar problem last fall, did all kids of testing and everything tested ok, pulled my starter fuse in the passenger side block and cleaned the prongs and no problems since then

 

Guys, sorry for no update. But I replaced the starter last month and the problem hasn't returned. My guess, bad solenoid.

 

i win!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:d

 

Make sure you do a battery check!!! (I had the same happen to me). I had the battery checked, it had a bad cell. Replaced battery and running good again.