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help with harmonic balancer

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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:08 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by craig04c5
Let us know how detailed the DVD is when you get it please. I am interrested in buying one for my car.
Roger Wilco
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 12:42 PM
  #42  
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Hey all! I recently took my 2000 hardtop to the chevy dealer to get my balancer replaced. But they told me they needed to take some hoses off the steering column to get to it, and that they must be replaced once you take them off. Which of course ran up the price another $350 in parts. Can anyone confirm this?? thanks.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 12:51 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by closrm
Hey all! I recently took my 2000 hardtop to the chevy dealer to get my balancer replaced. But they told me they needed to take some hoses off the steering column to get to it, and that they must be replaced once you take them off. Which of course ran up the price another $350 in parts. Can anyone confirm this?? thanks.
The hoses in question go to the rack, and should not require replacement, unless they are damaged. Ask them to show you in the GM service manual, where replacement of the hoses is required.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 12:58 PM
  #44  
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ok, that makes sense. thanks for the info lucky!
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 11:29 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
At the time of removal, I had a severe oil leak from the main front seal. I didnt have any way to hold the old damper from turning durng removal. The pipe wrench worked excellent!!!

I found a nice used strap wrench that works OUTSTANDING for removal/reinatall.



I can remove and install the damper my self.

Note the home made install tool!!!! You will need something like that also.

BC
Why the "special tool" tp install the new balancer?
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 02:33 PM
  #46  
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Because considerable force is required to "press" the new harmonic balancer onto the crank. If you try to simply screw it on with the old balancer bolt there won't be enough thread length engaged which could yield the crank threads. Using the install tool allows you to engage all the crank threads before pressing the balancer onto the shaft using the nut and washers. Also, thread wear due to surface friction is to the tool, not the crankshaft.

Using a strap or, as the FSM recommends, a flywheel lock allows you to torque the bolt correctly. You simply can't get enough torque without isolation because the drivetrain absorbs too much of it.

Last edited by Cratecruncher; Mar 4, 2011 at 02:39 PM.
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