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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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Default help with harmonic balancer

im trying to swap out the harmonic balancer for a 8 rib setup but the stock one wont budge. im literally out of ideas, i tried heating it up, tapping it with a sledge hammer( probably not a good idea), spraying wd40, but it wont budge. i bent 2 3 jaw pullers, and i went to auto zone and i found a better 3 jaw puller, but it still isnt budging, i even used my impact gun. i was hoping to finish this install sometime this week, but now im not sure. oh, and to make matters worse i broke the metal piece in the power steering pulley trying to take it off, so tomorrow im going to take it to a machine shop and have them take the ps pulley off the pump. everything was going so smooth until it came time to remove the harmonic balancer. does any one have any ideas. thanks in advance.


here is the tool i was using, with a socket at the end, but i ended up breaking the socket








and here is my nemesis




and the power steering pulley



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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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Are you the original owner? Just wondering if the balancer was previously pinned.

Why are there chucks missing from the pulley?
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 11:27 PM
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no im not the original owner, but however i did swap a cam in there almost 2 years ago and i did not pin it. one of the reasons it has chunks missing is cause i got a bigger 3 jaw puller and put the jaws on the outer pulley to try it that way, but it ended up breaking some pieces off as you can see in the picture. its funny, when i did the cam, that thing came out so easy with the puller. btw, i only was able to torque it down to around 210ft lb when i originally installed it.
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 03redzo6
no im not the original owner, but however i did swap a cam in there almost 2 years ago and i did not pin it. one of the reasons it has chunks missing is cause i got a bigger 3 jaw puller and put the jaws on the outer pulley to try it that way, but it ended up breaking some pieces off as you can see in the picture. its funny, when i did the cam, that thing came out so easy with the puller. btw, i only was able to torque it down to around 210ft lb when i originally installed it.
You certainly won't get anywhere pulling it from the outer diameter. If you are going to use an impact, then you should use impact sockets.....as you can see....regular sockets will crack....even the good ones.

I'd refrain from using a sledgehammer......that can only make things worse.

If you used a jaw puller on the PS pulley, that's why it broke. There is a special puller for that pulley......relatively inexpensive too.
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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All I can say is use a TORCH and heat the "HUB" of that balancer till it gets about 200 deg. I heated mine and I was able to use a 3/8 drive ratchet to get it off. Regardless if it pinned or not, it should come off. Unless someone has drilled thru the damper and crank and inserted a long pin thru BOTH, it should come off and heat will really help. Get cooking!

BC
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
You certainly won't get anywhere pulling it from the outer diameter. If you are going to use an impact, then you should use impact sockets.....as you can see....regular sockets will crack....even the good ones.

I'd refrain from using a sledgehammer......that can only make things worse.

If you used a jaw puller on the PS pulley, that's why it broke. There is a special puller for that pulley......relatively inexpensive too.

i actually bought the special tool that goes around the metal ring for the power steering pulley but it literally shattered it as you can see
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
All I can say is use a TORCH and heat the "HUB" of that balancer till it gets about 200 deg. I heated mine and I was able to use a 3/8 drive ratchet to get it off. Regardless if it pinned or not, it should come off. Unless someone has drilled thru the damper and crank and inserted a long pin thru BOTH, it should come off and heat will really help. Get cooking!

BC
i just got back from my buddy's house and told him what was going on, so he let me borrow his map gas torch, he said he had the same exact problem with his ls1 miata and it took the torch with the 3 jaw puller and a impact gun to get it off. ill give it a try tomorrow, hopefully everything works out.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 11:01 AM
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Remember the heat trick when you reinstall it. It makes the job a WHOLE LOT easier!
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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thanks again everyone for there advice. i finally got it off using the map gas torch and my impact gun. now on with the supercharger install
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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thanks, and will do
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 03redzo6
thanks again everyone for there advice. i finally got it off using the map gas torch and my impact gun. now on with the supercharger install
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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Do you have to remove the radiator and the rack? Do you need to jack it up for any of this? My HB has separated and must be replaced. Thanks
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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YES!! Jack it up! Remove the radiator/fan assy. You DO NOT need to fully remove the rack. You can disconnect it, and unbolt it,, slide it part way out and push the passengers end foward.

That will allow you you to do all you need to do. Been there DONE that;



BC
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
YES!! Jack it up! Remove the radiator/fan assy. You DO NOT need to fully remove the rack. You can disconnect it, and unbolt it,, slide it part way out and push the passengers end foward.

That will allow you you to do all you need to do. Been there DONE that;



BC
Hey thanks for the input. What is the big wrench for? Did you have to deal with balancing the new HB?
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jammerjamesharmon
Hey thanks for the input. What is the big wrench for? Did you have to deal with balancing the new HB?
At the time of removal, I had a severe oil leak from the main front seal. I didnt have any way to hold the old damper from turning durng removal. The pipe wrench worked excellent!!!

I found a nice used strap wrench that works OUTSTANDING for removal/reinatall.



I can remove and install the damper my self.

Note the home made install tool!!!! You will need something like that also.

BC
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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I'll keep these "tools" in mind. Not real sure why it would turn when removing and installing. Would not the engine compression keep it from truning? What is your take on balancing the HB?
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jammerjamesharmon
Not real sure why it would turn when removing and installing. Would not the engine compression keep it from truning?
No offense...but something tells me you have not done this before...I hope you have a service manual..
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:43 PM
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Your right, have not done this before and no manual. Is there some place to down load one? Some good info and parts of the manual in this thread. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...alancer-3.html

Last edited by jammerjamesharmon; Oct 4, 2010 at 11:46 PM.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jammerjamesharmon
Your right, have not done this before and no manual. Is there some place to down load one? Some good info and parts of the manual in this thread. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...alancer-3.html
If you do a search, there is a thread floating around about downloading dvd type version. Service manuals come up for sale frequently in the parts section, and on ebay.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:56 PM
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IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you install an OEM damper,,,, and have a manual trans,,,,, your supppse to mark the position of the old damper and transfer the OFFSET WEIGHTS on the old damper to the new damper.

I installed a POWERBOND Damper (has NO provisions for weights) and I had ZERO issues.

Purchase and read the service manual...

BC

BC
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