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Difference is that the 402 has a bigger bore 4.00" vs. 3.90" which unshrouds the cylinder valve for more flow which will equal more power, also there will be less piston side load therefore less wear. Down side
more cost need LS2 block,knock and cam sensor extention harness,LS2 front timing cover with cam sensor, and engine valley cover for conversion.
Rob.
Difference is that the 402 has a bigger bore 4.00" vs. 3.90" which unshrouds the cylinder valve for more flow which will equal more power, also there will be less piston side load therefore less wear. Down side
more cost need LS2 block,knock and cam sensor extention harness,LS2 front timing cover with cam sensor, and engine valley cover for conversion.
Rob.
If you have the extra cash. The LS3 block is the way to go. With the LS3 block you will have 416 cubic inches instead of 383 with the same 4.00 inch stroker crank. Plus you will be able to use the better breathing LS3 heads that you can't use on the LS1 block with a stock bore.
Last edited by mitchell c; Jun 20, 2010 at 10:49 PM.
with the 402 LS2 stroker, you can reuse your 90/90 set up, AFR 205 heads ( with a little touch up for your CC), and oil pan. You cant do that with the LS3.
That's a $2000 savings if you go short block build
Id like to do a forged LS2 stroker, but dont know where to turn on it
Phil Give me a day or two. I need to send a few emails out to race friends that live in the Tampa Sebring area to get the guys name and location.
But my understanding he has been building SBC / LS race motors for years.
Any real high performance use engine should have a dry sump oiling system. We have just seen quite a few LS3s on road course go boom without the dry sump.
Road course / road race engines are run at 3,000 to redline for long periods at a time, 20 min to an hour + . So the need for oiling and cooling is very important.
ARE dry sump is very good. A Daily dry sump is the best
and that will be $5 to my paypal
Tom
Last edited by AU N EGL; Jun 22, 2010 at 07:43 AM.
with the 402 LS2 stroker, you can reuse your 90/90 set up, AFR 205 heads ( with a little touch up for your CC), and oil pan. You cant do that with the LS3.
That's a $2000 savings if you go short block build
Id like to do a forged LS2 stroker, but dont know where to turn on it
LS2 and LS3 use the same components, only difference bigger bore. 4.065" instead of 4.00"
LS2 and LS3 use the same components, only difference bigger bore. 4.065" instead of 4.00"
WE still see more LS3s go bang then LS2s.
Adding Dry sump has taken care of oiling issues of the LS3 and LS2s. LS6s can get away with the accu-sump
The bigger the boar the better oiling and cooling the engine needs.
again this is not really for street engines, but high use road race / track day engines that see nothing but 3000 to redline beatings for 20 or more minutes at a time.
Last edited by AU N EGL; Jun 22, 2010 at 11:55 AM.
Well, that's the pivotal point to your SB decision. AU bases all of his opinions on road racing environment, but for a street/drag car, you get more CI, and more power with a LS3 based block. And yes, you can use your AFR heads either way. I don't believe it's neccessary to go with a dry sump, although they are nice.