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any ideals who sells the bolts and screw extractor. hopefully second time around will not be such a pita. Also any ideals to extend the little black tubing that attaches to the back of the intake.
definitely a wanna be mechanic, only changing oil in all of my cars over the years. but since I got the vette and found this forum have been doing small projects I would have never attempted in the past. I was using a torque wrench from Sears, after I had snugged the bolt with a socket. I put the torque wrench on the pounds reading was like 15#, my no mechanic *** kept turning the wrench several times thinking I would see 45# eventually.
Well then a loud pop and the bolt was toast.
any ideals who sells the bolts and screw extractor. hopefully second time around will not be such a pita. Also any ideals to extend the little black tubing that attaches to the back of the intake.
On the intake bolt...screw extractor can be bought any hardware or auto parts store. I would try and just remove the intake and see if you can get it out with a pair of vice grips first...
If not, it shouldn't be tough to get it out with an "easy out"/screw extractor.
As far as the little black tubing goes...I just swapped mine out all the way down to the bottom of the little canister behind the fender with rubber hose..made it way easier, it's worked fine for a couple years and you can put in a little "stint" or just use a piece of rigid tubing with 2 hose clamps and then it's super easy to hook that thing back up if you ever have the intake off again.
Also, the first time I had my intake on/off..was for knock sensors. It took me like 3 hours.
I've had it off 5 or 6 times since and it's never taken more than an hour. For some reason, they're just tough the first time.
Did you see the tip about taping your back two bolts "up" in the bolt holes? So you can slide the intake back on to the heads and not have them falling down into the ports.. and if you don't have the fuel line removal tool the first time...that's always an extra parts store trip..lol
definitely a wanna be mechanic, only changing oil in all of my cars over the years. but since I got the vette and found this forum have been doing small projects I would have never attempted in the past. I was using a torque wrench from Sears, after I had snugged the bolt with a socket. I put the torque wrench on the pounds reading was like 15#, my no mechanic *** kept turning the wrench several times thinking I would see 45# eventually.
Well then a loud pop and the bolt was toast.
Torque is 89 lb-in or just barley over 7 lb-ft. Not sure what wrench you are using but sounds to me that you simply over tightened the bolt. It likely broke at or just above the threads in the head. If you are lucky, there will be enough sticking out to turn it out.
If you overtightened all the bolts, I would personally replace them all as they are all likely yielded at this point and could fail when you re-install them.
Tighten the intake manifold bolts. Tighten
Tighten the intake manifold bolts a first pass in sequence to 5 N·m (44 lb in).
Tighten the intake manifold bolts a final pass in sequence to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
You SURE you used INCH POUND torque wrench??
sears beam torque wrench 3/8. what does 89lb-in exactly mean?
You are applying a force through a distance, or moment arm. For 89 in-lb, you are applying 89 lbs with a 1" radius handle (obviously the wrench is longer so the actual force used is less). If you increase you handle length to 12", you only need to pull with 7.4 lbs to obtain the same value of torque. If you continue to increase the handle length, less force is required to obtain the same torque at the bolt. For example, if you increased the handle length to 89", you only would need to apply 1 lb of force. Each wrench is designed to work within a specified torque range and higher torque capability wrenches use lb-ft as the units.
Last edited by vettenuts; Jul 19, 2010 at 06:01 AM.