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Well the vibration in my engine turned out to be the clutch and I need a new one. The current clutch is a textralia (not sure of the model). A certain shop recommended the Monster Stage 3. I am looking to spend no more than $800. I am running a SDPC 402 with AFR 205s, 12.5:1 comp, overall the last dyno was 490 rwhp and 475 tq. Help me with some suggestions/experiences with your clutch. Thanks. -Rusty
I used an ACT clutch and PP and a Ram Billett Flywheel. It made the clutch pedal a bit stiffer but it engages with absolutely no chatter and has worked very well for me at the track. Not the stuff most around here will recommend, but I was tired of paying a premium for the latest greatest LSx clutch kit. I think the ACT is rated for 750 lb/ft.
I used an ACT clutch and PP and a Ram Billett Flywheel. It made the clutch pedal a bit stiffer but it engages with absolutely no chatter and has worked very well for me at the track. Not the stuff most around here will recommend, but I was tired of paying a premium for the latest greatest LSx clutch kit. I think the ACT is rated for 750 lb/ft.
Good luck with it.
Same setup here but with their new light weight steel flywheel, great feel with no chatter as well. Really happy with it. 440rwhp 415rwtq
ZO6 w a 346 H/C/I making 485 rwhp and more importantly 425 rwtq and I run a Centerforce 12" with resurfaced OEM flywheel with slave bleeder. Two of my Buddies have similar power level and setup.
No issues $385 for clutch $60 for flywheel resurfacing and 0 balance and my 8k miles of hard shifts with no pedal sticking to the floor PRICELESS
Great replies and I am glad to see you all have a less expensive route that is working for you. Thanks for the help. I am a bit concerned about my power levels. I would like to hear from some members with around 500 rwhp, 500 rwtq and how their setup is holding (specifically likes/dislikes and prices). Thanks.
I would like to recommend a Fidanza dual-disc clutch with its aluminum flywheel. I have installed three in the past two years, one of them being in my Z06 after I got tired of the squealing in my Textralia OZ700 clutch.
With the Fidanza dual-disc there is no muss - fuss - or chatter.
Great replies and I am glad to see you all have a less expensive route that is working for you. Thanks for the help. I am a bit concerned about my power levels. I would like to hear from some members with around 500 rwhp, 500 rwtq and how their setup is holding (specifically likes/dislikes and prices). Thanks.
My ACT/RAM setup is behind a forged 383 that is not quite 500/500 but close enough.
Not sure if you are planning to do the job yourself or not.
My son and I did his car. Used jackstands to get it up in the air. Motorcycle jack to lower/lift the rear end and just regular hand tools to do the swap. Only problem part was removing the old pilot bearing as I needed to cut it up with a dremel to get it out. Job took about 16 hrs start to finish without rushing.
I am on the fence about doing the job myself. I have never done a clutch on any vehicle, let alone a C5. I also have a gravel drive. I try to minimize the use of 2"x12"s under jack stands on the gravel, especially if I will be completely underneath! The shop quoted me 500 for the clutch install. If I do it myself, I will be renting use of a lift in a shop for sure. Thanks for the tips in the previous post. I love working on my own vehicles because I know it will be right.
I am on the fence about doing the job myself. I have never done a clutch on any vehicle, let alone a C5. I also have a gravel drive. I try to minimize the use of 2"x12"s under jack stands on the gravel, especially if I will be completely underneath! The shop quoted me 500 for the clutch install. If I do it myself, I will be renting use of a lift in a shop for sure. Thanks for the tips in the previous post. I love working on my own vehicles because I know it will be right.
$500 for the labor is a pretty good deal if they know what they are doing.
I like being alive and able to stand/walk/talk. Jack stands on anything but concrete is too dangerous for me.
Sounds like the shop is pointing you in the right direction with the level 3 monster, it'll easily hold more too of course if you decide on bigger heads down the road. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Thanks, Chris
Well the vibration in my engine turned out to be the clutch and I need a new one. The current clutch is a textralia (not sure of the model). A certain shop recommended the Monster Stage 3. I am looking to spend no more than $800. I am running a SDPC 402 with AFR 205s, 12.5:1 comp, overall the last dyno was 490 rwhp and 475 tq. Help me with some suggestions/experiences with your clutch. Thanks. -Rusty
I have the Dual Friction 12" and it works great. I'm only putting down 400whp, but the clutch has a stock pedal feel, and engages nice and smooth. Price/performance for this clutch was hard to beat!
Edit: I should also add that it's a ~9-10 hour job if you've done it before. And a shop should be quoting you around that many hours too... I would expect closer to $900 for a clutch swap from a reputable shop...
Good Luck!
Dan
Last edited by LF97C5Vette; Jul 22, 2010 at 11:11 AM.
Monster has announced they are coming out with a twin disc soon.
Might wanna hold out till there's feedback on that.
Myself, I have been using the LS7 clutch for a year now with no issues. I am at 511 rwhp/499 rwtq in a 2004 GTO.
Granted, I haven't beat on the car or taken it to the track (yet). I know when I do I'll have to upgrade, but so far, so good.
Cliffs Notes: Both RPS Organic Street Twins I have chatter/shudder when taking off. RPS's customer service and warranty suck. Their crappy product has caused me more than a week of downtime, hundreds of dollars in labor and a headache since the first time the car was pulled off the lift.