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Looking for a detailed write up for a transmission cooler install, searched for 2 days and all I got was to tap into top line coming out of radiator (return line).
I just put a B&M cooler with fan under my left headlight area. I'm boosted, so there wasn't any room between the radiater and the intercooler. It worked out so well that even if I wasn't supercharged, I would still put it there so I wouldn't block airflow to the radiator and a/c. I got a lot of ideas from the forum, but just decided to put in line with the driver's brake cooling duct opening. You have to remove and toss [save] the duct. You have to fabricate a bracket using some 1.5 inch strap and make sure you put the cooler low enough to clear the headlight when it retracts. Run the lines along the air dam and up through the shroud to the top of the radiator. Go from the radiator [top line] to the cooler and return to the line that used to hook to the radiator. I used braided stainless -6 an. The transmission makes over 200 psi when you're pushing it, so be real diligent in the way you fasten the lines. Some guys put the cooler under the passenger headlight as well, and that way you will save a few bucks on the braided line. I didn't search the archives for installation info, but the guys that responded didn't think there was any write ups. Maybe some one out there knows where there is one. Good Luck, Rod
The fitting for the top radiator outlet is 5/8x18 inverted flare. You can buy that fitting with -6 an male from any good shop that sells braided line fittings. Then you run that line to your B&M cooler. The other line from the cooler simply is routed back and is connected to the line that originally connected to the radiator. The fitting that is needed for the connection is brass and is available from auto zone. It is female reverse 5/8x18 inverted flare to 3/8 npt. You then use a 3/8 male npt to -6 male fitting to connect to the braided line to the hardline going to the trans. The B&M cooler inlet and outlets are 1/2 npt, so you will need two 1/2 to -6 male fitting to completed the loop. As always, double check the sizes on your vette. I'm doing this from memory. You can PM me if you need any help, but being 3000 miles away, I don't know how much I can do. Good luck and take it slow. Rod PS The fitting I used for the top hose to the radiator is 150 degee to give the right angle to the hose to fit around the side of the top of the radiator.
Sometime in 2001 they changed the fitting from the 5/8 inverted flare to another possibly metric fitting. Does anyone know what size that fitting is and where to get an adapter to AN-6 hose?
What i ended up doing was bypassing the radiator all together. It made more sense and since the car hardly comes out in the winter I said why the hell not. I ended up cutting the 3/8 hardline a few inches back off the radiator flared the end and used braided line and AN fittings. I mounted the cooler in front of ac condensor but have a feeling im going to end up moving it when I boost. I have all the part numbers of fittings used and if anyone is interested I can take some pics of install. It was fairly easy to install except I had problems flaring the ends of hardline bc of such little room to work with but other than that all came out well. By the way my temps dropped roughly 30* was crusing around 217 and the hottest ive seen doing 130mph is 190*
Ranomus, mine is a 2000 coupe and it was a 5/8 inverted flare. I'm sure any good radiator shop could tell you if yours is different. I just picked up all the fittings, hoses, and hose ends from a shop up in Orange. [not too far from you]. Rod
I agree with by-passing the trans radiator cooler---Mine runs 10-15* cooler that way----How can you cool the trans fuild with a 210-220*
radiator temp ??? Use a stacked type cooler and NOT the fin and tube design--they work far superior---I have a long or B&M 8x10---
It looks like a tiny radiator--- 1/2" inlet and out---npt---
Mine is the newer type and I found that Be-Cool makes an adapter for their radiators that works great if you want to bypass the radiator completely. You just need two of the fittings, they thread on to the stock hoses and convert it to a 5/8 fitting like the old one. Then all you need is the parts to convert that to AN-6 or whatever tubing you are using and it should work.
MUSTANG RACER--- I just tuned a 2001 stock heads/cam Camaro with a CAI---Flowmasters---and horrible 2.73 GEARS !!!!!! an A4 and the lifesaver of a 3000 Stall--- He had to call me when he raced and beat 3 NEW MUSTANGS--- And they insisted on racing from a slow roll---(Ford guys are dumb too--LOL)--played right into his hand--
2 were manuals one an auotomatic---I love hearing these stories from customers--made my day !!!!
I hope by Mustang racer you don't own one but race against them--!!