Hey everyone, well to get up to speed, i took the 6 speed out and installed an RPM transmission's stg 6 4L60E w/ 3600 vigilante converter, OEM wire harness, torque tube, and had Speed inc reflash my computer to turn on the auto trans features in it and after i got it all done and put together, i went to fire it up and first had a problem with code P1631 for some weird reason - i found out how to get the car to relearn the password and it runs now.

Anyway, its up on jack stands and tonight i was filling the trans with fluid while its running in park i'm now getting a check engine light and these codes are displayed in the DIC when i scan it.
P0712 HC - trans fluid temp sensor circuit low input
P0740 HC - torque converter clutch enable solenoid valve circuit electrical
P0785 HC - 3-2 shift solenoid circuit electrical
P1810 HC - automatic fluid pressure manual valve position switch electrical
P1860 HC - torque converter clutch pulse width modulation solenoid control valve electrical
I used my electronic service manual to help me but it didn't help me much since i don't have a clue whats wrong or better yet how to fix it....
BTW, the car is going to Speed inc (trailered) for a re-tune with the automatic in place Thursday. I just don't want to make the 300 mile trip and find out its something actually wrong or something that needs fixed that they can't clear out or fix with the laptop.

Please help! Thanks in advance!

 

Not sure (never did a conversion) but,,, doesnt an auto and manual have a different tranny wireing harness??? did you swap that out?

 

yep different wiring harness from by the battery all the way to the back. Its all OEM stuff, only part thats kinda weird is i had to install 16 wires w/ the OEM pins that go into the red & blue connectors to the computer so everything would work correctly.
But obviously something is not happy. I'm completely lost, i emailed Speed inc and called RPM to see what they say and RPM wants to see what tune SI installed thinking maybe something is weird.

 

RPM thinks tune is good and wants me to recheck all wiring i did. Ok no problem but how in the world am i going to find out if something is wrong? I mean, unless is something obviously is unplugged or in the wrong ECU pin hole i don't see how i'll ever locate this problem.?
Oh btw, this trans was on RPM's dyno so its good to go and doesn't have anything wrong with the sensors.
Help!

 

I believe RPM makes a jumper for the part you wired. You could try getting the adapter from them.

 

yep that jumper part is what I've from RPM

UPDATE: I found the issue! believe it or not its not my fault lol - it is actually the plug that RPM has made from an OEM plug that on the other end is the loose ends that RPM has generously put the ECU pins on for me. The problem is, who-ever wired the plug up has made it so its a direct copy of the female side rather than a mirrored image of it. In other words when you go to plug it in for example is a red wire on the OEM side harness is red, the opposing side of RPM's plug doesn't match.
I rigged it up last night without the plug and BAM everything worked so now I'm in the process of matching up the pins in the plug so they match and not all rigged up.

I'm just sooooo glad i found this, I'll call RPM as well just incase they've made anymore of these jumper harnesses wrong.

 

good for you - I know you've been losing sleep over this - I SURELY would have.

 

FYI, i drove it last night and no codes and seems to be ok, trans shifts kinda lazy and doesn't seem to want to lock up in OD unless off gas, then it will. But i'm assuming its all in the tune and its going to Speed inc Friday to get tuned w/ the auto. Wish me luck!

I'll post what the results are.

 

Can you post the costs and the rough steps for those that might be interested?

 

I'm assuming the cost of the conversion? If so, I got 100% of everything from RPM transmissions in Indiana.
I got a....
RPM's Level 6 4L60E
Precision Industries 3600 single disk lock up converter
OEM Automatic torque tube w/ new bushings/bearings inside it
Quicktime SFI flexplate, driveplate, & bellhousing
Drive coupler
OEM automatic pedal
OEM shifter w/ cable etc
OEM plug/play wire harness from battery all the way back & RPM jumper harness (see me about what to check before installing lol)
OEM cooler lines from trans to starter area
B&M high tek trans cooler w/ built in electric fan w/ fittings & braided line

ARE YOU READY?????? $6914 & thats if you do it all yourself. And its extremely intimidating to look at all the wiring but its actually not that bad.

Now that i've done it i know i could do it again no problem at all so if any of you want to consider doing it, let me know and i can tell you alot of stuff not to do lol

 

Thanks for the info.

The price will probably eliminate many from the changeover, but it is great information on doing it.

Mark

 

yeah the trans was $2895 & converter was $735 let alone all the other crap but i priced piece'ing it all together myself and it was about the same price and this was already packaged up and better product in the end.. I hope........lol

 

Update: after retune/dyno @ speed inc it all worked together with no problems. with 6 speed 453hp to rear & 537hp w/ 100 N20 jets & now its 423hp/377 torque N/A & 485hp/424 torque w/ same N20 setup.
Only problem i see now is i believe the converter is too tight @ 3600 - from a dead idle it leaves like a dog w/ 1.77 60's and it used to leave like a monster @ 4000 on the 2 step.

 

Any updates on how the car is doing with the auto?

I am on the fence if this is something I should do. I am certain my A&A Vortech kit would LOVE to have an auto ( since I cant shift for crap ) but my wallet on the other hand would rather me skip it.

 

And you can get some $$ from your manual stuff.