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I would like to suggest in place of the spreader bar on the ball joints to use one of the many newer type of ball joint tools. The manual suggest using the Kent-Moore J-42188-B BALL JOINT SEPARATOR. It is over priced in my opinion at about $200. If you can borrow from your local auto parts, than it might be a good choice. There are others on the market that work very well for under $20.
Thanks guys, wasn't as hard as I thought. Now, anybody know how to get that damn ball joint boot off? You see I tore it, so now it needs replacing. Manual doesn't show procedure for lower ball joint, just the upper, and I'm not going to assume it's the same.
Eric, the fork I have worked perfectly; it was my aim that fekked up the boot..
And edit, the hub frame is a steering knuckle. Re-read the manual....
damn...by your drawing I have to remove the entire joint, don't I? So how do I get it out without a press?
If I remember correctly (that's an issue sometimes) you do not have to remove the ball joint, just work the boot out of the groove on the lower end. You can use a small screw driver and work it between the stud and rubber boot all the way down to the main body of the ball joint.
Will the ball joint taper pop out of the spindle with a hammer blow to the spindle? I've done this on trucks where the spindle is cast iron but not on aluminum ones.
ah, i see the groove you're talking about now. Is the boot a sold-separately item?
Not from GM as far as I know. Most autoparts places have fits all. If you take your old one with you they should be able to fix you up with one that will work.
As far as using a hammer, If you leave the nut on the stud but screwed up past the end threads a little sometime will allow a "light" blow to pop it out, but really not the best way to do it.