I don't have a fob and it is taking longer and longer for the security cycle to go through. Today it took me 2 hours to start my Vette even after I disconnected/reconnected the battery. Is there a safe way to by pass the security with out killing the car.

Thanks in advanced

 

No one in here is going to tell you how to bypass the security for obvious reasons. One to two hours for the security to let you start the car is certainly and issue though. Pull your codes and post them.

 

Sounds like you need a replacement key or ignition switch.

 

yea, thats not the FOB. A couple of threads going right now about the Security light. Look for mine and Goody's thread about No start and Security Light.

 

Pull your codes.

http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

 

Need DTCs

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Ok Ill pull the codes this weekend I have a buddy with a code reader so I will post them all here and maybe you smart guys can help me out cause I am at a loss.

Thanks again guys.

 

Are you reading your own thread? Two people have posted how to pull codes......you don't need a code reader on a C5...

 

If you read the instructions above, you can pull the codes at the DIC yourself without a code reader. Its easy and the best tool you have!

 

Your buddies code reader probably won't be able to access the codes needed here-read the above instructions!

 

pay attention

 

I have thus far pulled one code B2284H so I am sure that there is more there but that is the only one that comes up. Which is battery circuit would that do anything. She still primes and goes through the motions as if ready to start.

 

Do a search on that code!

 

already did its the battery #2 circuit.

 

This is what that DTC means:

DTC B2284
Circuit Description
The LH Door Control Module (LDCM) has two main power feeds (high and low), and one main ground. The low power feed (battery 1) is used to provide power for the LDCM logic and internal driver operation. The high power feed (battery 2) is used to provide power for systems that draw higher amounts of current (motors, lights etc.). For most functions, the LDCM will operate properly when vehicle system voltage is between 9.0-16.0 volts. The LDCM also monitors the voltage level at battery 1 and battery 2 circuits and can determine if the voltage level received is out of range. If the voltage level is out of range in either circuit , then a malfunction is present and a DTC will set.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
The LDCM detects battery 1 voltage range under 9.0 volts or over 16.3 volts.
Condition must be present for 2 seconds.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
Stores a history DTC B2284 in the LDCM memory.
This DTC can only be set as a history code even if the malfunction is current.
No driver warning message will be displayed for this DTC.
Conditions for Clearing the DTC
The LDCM detects battery 2 voltage range between 9.0-16.3 volts for longer than 2 seconds.
Use the IPC clearing DTCs feature.
Use a scan tool.
Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

Schematic Reference: Door Control Module Schematics

1
Did you perform the Engine Electrical Diagnostic System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Electrical

2
Install a scan tool.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
With a scan tool, observe Battery 1 parameter in the LDCM data list.
Does the scan tool indicate that the Battery 1 parameter is within the specified range?
9.0-16.3 V
Go to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
Go to Step 3

3
Test for a high resistance in the battery 1 positive voltage circuit of the LDCM. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 4

4
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the LDCM and the instrument panel electrical center. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 5

5
Replace the LDCM. Refer to Door Control Module Replacement .

Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 6
--

6
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC reset?


If your getting LOW voltage on that module, chances are that you getting it on other ones. MAKE SURE your reading ALL the DTC's using the cars built in DTC routine.

When the car wont start, take a close look at the digital volt meter in the DIC and the analog meter in the IPC gage. See what it reading. Post the results.

It sounds like your having a voltage issue and that can be caused by a number of things.

Make sure the battery is properly charged and able to hold a charge when being cranked. Make sure that the battery terminals are 100% clean and torqued to 11 FT/Lbs

You may also have an ignition switch problem.

check out this post and follow some of the troubleshooting test and procedures:

- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

Try to read the DTCs during the problem and see if there are more DTCs

BC

 

^^^Thanks wilco