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I checked my DTC's on occasion and the only one's that come up are:
BO-RFA 3 CODES. U1096H, U1064H, U1016H. I know they are history codes and I searched the forums for them. One member said to ignore the 10xx codes because it's common on the C5.
The only problem I have seen twice in the last year was service the active handling soon. But that usually disappears after turning the car off/on. I haven't gotten any codes for it lately, and did a reset on all the old codes.
Should I be looking for something bad? I have checked the grounds at G101 and G102 and they were clean and started looking at other ground locations.
Should I just ignore the 10xx codes till some other codes show up?
I checked my DTC's on occasion and the only one's that come up are:
BO-RFA 3 CODES. U1096H, U1064H, U1016H. I know they are history codes and I searched the forums for them. One member said to ignore the 10xx codes because it's common on the C5.
Hmmm..you must have got that answer in the General section..
Well,,,, where/who ever you got your info from, doesnt understand how the C5 works. There not normal but as long as there history, they usually dont effect the way the car performs or operates. HOWEVER,,,, there telling you that there is an issue.
Your loosing coms or power to those modules for a breif period of time. This can be caused buy several things.
Weak or bad battery, defective ignition switch, poor battery connections etc..
Easy check.
Measure the battery voltage directly at the battery terminals when the car has sat over night and record it.
Have someone CRANK and start the engine. When the starter is cranking measure how LOW the battery voltage drops at first starter operation.
If the battery is bad or low on charge, that value can drop below module shut off voltage due to LOW VOLTAGE and you will see a History DTC.
I'm leaving the car sit for another day because I ran it last night and had put it on the battery tender till I read the replies at 11pm. After reading the replies I unhooked the battery tender last night (11pm)and checked the battery voltage today (12 hours later) It was 12.55 volts. I'll try starting the car tomorrow and check the voltage on start up.
I think I found ground G104. Is it directly down from the negative battery post? I tried moving the wires on G104 by hand and they seem tight. How can you move/remove that tab that covers G104 so I can look at the ground screw and tighten/remove it for cleaning?
I have a similar problem. Mine are also all history codes. Currently my 80 radio codes are U1016, 1064, and 11096. A6SCM is U1160. BO RFA is U 1016, 1064, and 1096. My battery voltage is 12.12 after sitting for a couple of days and drops to 11.4 starting. I have previously had history codes 40BCM, 58SDM, 60IPC, RADIO, AO LDCM A1 RDCM, and A6SDM, but those codes haven't shown up since last year. Can someone help me diagnose the problems?
I have had my C5 for almost 13 years, 100,000 miles, and every time I checked for codes, I have seen U1016H. I have had at least two or three batteries in the car over that time, so its not the battery. Might be a loose connector. First time I saw it, i was advised not to worry about it. I think that was good advice.
I have had my C5 for almost 13 years, 100,000 miles, and every time I checked for codes, I have seen U1016H. I have had at least two or three batteries in the car over that time, so its not the battery. Might be a loose connector. First time I saw it, i was advised not to worry about it. I think that was good advice.
If your battery is below 12.5 volts when you turn they key on, modules will start to drop out and throw codes. Doesn't mean it won't start, it will just do funny things and throw codes. Hell a brand new battery in my 02Z is low if it sets 3-4 weeks without a charge.
If your battery is below 12.5 volts when you turn they key on, modules will start to drop out and throw codes. Doesn't mean it won't start, it will just do funny things and throw codes. Hell a brand new battery in my 02Z is low if it sets 3-4 weeks without a charge.
Thats NOT really correct. The cutoff voltage on each module is 9 VDC. There are several reasons for a module to see less than desired voltage. One is a bad battery. The other is a bad ignition switch.
Each module that has a memory or keep alive feature has TWO 12 VDC feeds. One is HOT at all times and connected directly to the battery and the other is "HOT in RUN/START/ON". That feed is provided thru the ignition switch. IF,, the ignition switch contacts are burnt/corroded, it will have significantly less output voltage available to the modules it feeds on that output circuit..There are six individual ignition switch outputs. Each one powers a separate circuit. If an individual circuit is defective due to a high resistance contact, it will output less than required voltage output. Here is a post that details this issue and a FREE repair to the ignition switch:
I checked the battery voltage today (sitting for 36 hours since the car last ran and no battery tender) the reading was 12.66 volts. My wife started the car and I read 10.4 volts as the low.
Last edited by ralphthedog; Sep 12, 2010 at 11:02 AM.
You might inspect ground G104 (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html and scroll to the diagram with written in info) since that is the ground point for the RFA. Could also be the result of battery issues but if that were the case I'd expect other symptoms/codes. The codes are all loss of comm from the RFA to IP, BCM and PCM so you might have an issue with the data link connector that the RFA uses.
Next time you get the active handeling message, pull the codes.
What is the ground connector located between the firewall and the Battery tray? Mine is in pretty sad shape. Looks like it just connects a bunch of grounds. Doesn't look like it has a tab to ground to the frame?
What is the ground connector located between the firewall and the Battery tray? Mine is in pretty sad shape. Looks like it just connects a bunch of grounds. Doesn't look like it has a tab to ground to the frame?
If you are talking about the splice pack under the battery tray, that is SP122. It that is corroded, or in poor shape, it will cause many issues. It provides a ground for the fuel pump relay, and the O2 sensors. One of the black wires from SP122 connects to the lower left part of the block at G105.
When I look straight down from the negative battery post on the frame rail the enclosure that surrounds the battery has a tab that is directly over G104 (I think that's the ground location) I can't remove it to look at G104 or remove the bolt for cleaning. How do you remove that plastic tab that is part of the enclosure?
(Disregard the above, I went back to the car and was able to put two fingers under that tab and finally it just lifted off! I'm in the process of cleaning that ground point.(three wires on it) I think I'll put a star washer under the wires to help cut through the paint on the frame rail.
Is 10.4 volts on start up okay? (I'm think 12.66 would be okay voltage after sitting 36 hours since it went up from12.55 the day before)
Last edited by ralphthedog; Sep 13, 2010 at 11:36 AM.
Thats pretty LOW. Take your battery OUT of the car, charge it fully and have it tested at the autoparts store. Make sure theu check CCA and reserve capacity.
Thanks Bill. Give me a couple days and I'll get it checked out. When I purchased the car the dealer had the car in their show room and had let the battery run down. When the salesman tried to show me something on the car the battery was dead. A couple different service managers have always told me that won't hurt the battery but I always found that the batteries never recover fully from being totally discharged.
The battery seems to preform okay and is always hooked up to the battery tender. I suppose the best thing to do is have it checked out and then decide if it's bad enough to go for a new one.
Last edited by ralphthedog; Sep 13, 2010 at 09:40 PM.
Reason: Additional thoughts
Latest: I couldn't wait (the problem caused me to wake up during the night)! The origninal owner of the car had put a replacement battery in from Walmart. I took the battery into Walmart for testing in case there was any warranty left. They put it on their little tester and it said "Replace". The battery was not quite 5 years old and it was prorated. I got $30 off the cost of a new one so I went for another one...! I have it on the battery tender before I install it back in the car. I'll check again to see if all the codes are cleared out and see what happens. (I probably should do that voltage test again at start up) I'll report the results.
The new battery was out of the car and I had it plugged into the battery tender for about 5 hours before the fully charged lite turn on. I installed the new battery in the car and had my wife start the car while I watched the digital meter. It was reading 12.6 volts and drop to 10.7 on start up. Not much different than the old battery. I'll have to see if the 10xx codes return on my next ride. Stay tuned!
I took a short ride to my local cruise night tonight. I couldn't reset any codes immediately after changing the battery because nothing showed up where you would normally read the codes. Tonight after I got back home I checked and I had a TCS C1255H, BO-RFA U1016H, U1064H, U1096H.
I'm not sure if these codes were related to the battery swap out. I cleaned all the codes out and I'll started fresh! Tomorrow I'm going to another show and I'll see what happens. I did have to reset my FOB to lock/unlock the doors and trunk after the battery swap out.
Last edited by ralphthedog; Sep 18, 2010 at 10:20 PM.
Reason: Correction
I drove the car less than 10 miles today and no codes were present after the trip. I'm thinking I will need a longer trip to see if the codes return. The next long outing won't happen till October, I'll post a reply as soon as I can.
Finally a long ride! I've gone 91 miles since the battery change and "NO CODES" so far! Thank you to everyone who replied! I'll keep checking but so far it looks like problem solved.