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I've heard this too! I had a Service ABS code scare a while back and am concerned a shadetree flush is going to leave a lot of oxidized fluid inside the maze of ABS pump and solenoid lines that are isolated from the rest of the system. Those ABS modules are unobtainable at any price now for the '97-'00s.
My suggestion would then be to flush the system thoroughly, then go out on a wet road, and do a couple of "panic stops", to exercise the ABS unit, and if you're really ambitious, flush the brakes again..
I dont think doing panic stops to active the abs is going to flush anything out of those lines or solenoids is it? All its going to do is activate them but its not going to move any fluid through them to allow new to go in unless it re-circulates somehow through rest of system?
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Dec 10, 2010 at 07:52 PM.
I dont think doing panic stops to active the abs is going to flush anything out of those lines or solenoids is it? All its going to do is activate them but its not going to move any fluid through them to allow new to go in unless it re-circulates somehow through rest of system?
I dont think doing panic stops to active the abs is going to flush anything out of those lines or solenoids is it? All its going to do is activate them but its not going to move any fluid through them to allow new to go in unless it re-circulates somehow through rest of system?
It does seem to work and when you use the Tech II all it does is activates the system after a bleed, not during the bleed.
So one good flush/bleed and then 5-6 panic stops on wet roads (activating the ABS) is good enough to flush out the ebcm and get some/all good new fresh fluid in there?
So one good flush/bleed and then 5-6 panic stops on wet roads (activating the ABS) is good enough to flush out the ebcm and get some/all good new fresh fluid in there?
Thanks
I have no idea whether that actually "flushes" the ABS or not, but it usually restores a good firm pedal. I've heard the ABS system has several chambers for each line and I've never seen any major difference in the master reservoir after the panic stops so I really doubt that there can be that much flushing going on. I'm usually doing this on my track car so it's the fluid in the calipers that I'm most concerned with flushing. How about it ABS experts - a little enlightenment would be good.
I don't really think that activating the ABS will pump new fluid into all the passageways. However, I'm sure the new and old will mix and if you did it a few times you'd do an OK job of getting new fluid into the ABS module. The TechII is needed to bleed the brakes so you can get the air out of the passageways. Otherwise, the brakes could act up when that air got circulated into the brake system.
If you jack a C5 and put the rear end on stands and then let the car idle in gear the TC will activate and keep applying the rear brakes. It works perfectly right around idle in 1st on a manual car. If you just happened to take the wheels off and put a few lug nuts back on to hold the rotors then you'd have clear access to the calipers. You could open the bleeders and allow the ABS to pump new fluid towards the rear brakes. Of course, this is very unsafe and you could easily get caught in the spinning rotor/axle.
I took a look at the ABS/traction hydraulics when I started getting the dreaded codes and was surprised how complicated the plumbing is. There are a series of solenoids which open and close different lines depending on computer commands. When an ABS pump is replaced it would seem to me there must be a systematic way to eliminate all the air from the system. I guess I was assuming that the Tech II had a means of opening each chamber by energizing the solenoids in a circuit so the new fluid could enter displacing the air. Then the next chamber would be opened and primed, rinse and repeat until all the chambers and passages were flushed of air. If the Tech II can't do that then how does one go about replacing an ABS pump on a C5?
Since Tech II's are kinda expensive, perhaps we could come up with a way to isolate and open those solenoids for a proper flush without damaging any computers or circuits.
Man, you guys sure are making this difficult. The only time an automated bleed is required, is when the pump assembly is replaced, or air is introduced upstream of the ABS. You can bleed the system manually for anything downstream.
Man, you guys sure are making this difficult. The only time an automated bleed is required, is when the pump assembly is replaced, or air is introduced upstream of the ABS. You can bleed the system manually for anything downstream.
thanks man. So is it necessary in your opinion to flush out the pump assembly like the brake system or not worth the hassle? I understand it's not required but my car has 130K and I doubt it's been done.
I was going to go ahead and buy one of the motive auto tank bleeders that you pressurize and connect to the master cylinder reservoir or one of the phoenix reverse deals.
Either one will end up running close to 70-100 dollars by the time I'm done.
If the entire system should be bled, I may just take it to the dealer for once and have them do a complete flush with the tech II and all..
I took a look at the ABS/traction hydraulics when I started getting the dreaded codes and was surprised how complicated the plumbing is. There are a series of solenoids which open and close different lines depending on computer commands. When an ABS pump is replaced it would seem to me there must be a systematic way to eliminate all the air from the system. I guess I was assuming that the Tech II had a means of opening each chamber by energizing the solenoids in a circuit so the new fluid could enter displacing the air. Then the next chamber would be opened and primed, rinse and repeat until all the chambers and passages were flushed of air. If the Tech II can't do that then how does one go about replacing an ABS pump on a C5?
Since Tech II's are kinda expensive, perhaps we could come up with a way to isolate and open those solenoids for a proper flush without damaging any computers or circuits.
thanks man. So is it necessary in your opinion to flush out the pump assembly like the brake system or not worth the hassle? I understand it's not required but my car has 130K and I doubt it's been done.
I was going to go ahead and buy one of the motive auto tank bleeders that you pressurize and connect to the master cylinder reservoir or one of the phoenix reverse deals.
Either one will end up running close to 70-100 dollars by the time I'm done.
If the entire system should be bled, I may just take it to the dealer for once and have them do a complete flush with the tech II and all..
Thanks again
Donnie
Donnie,
If you replace fluid for fluid, you are not introducing air into the system. The fluid has to travel through the ABS to get to the calipers. Flushing your system manually will be fine, just don't run the reservoir dry.
Donnie,
If you replace fluid for fluid, you are not introducing air into the system. The fluid has to travel through the ABS to get to the calipers. Flushing your system manually will be fine, just don't run the reservoir dry.
So....how many of you when replacing pads dont crack open the bleeder when compressing the old pads back in to let he new ones fit? I have never cracked it open on any of my cars but I compress them very slowly as well but ive been told once you do it without cracking bleeder you mess the abs system up and might even ruin it. Ive only known 1 person that blew his abs solenoid out or something like that when he compressed old pads back into caliper.
My suggestion would then be to flush the system thoroughly, then go out on a wet road, and do a couple of "panic stops", to exercise the ABS unit, and if you're really ambitious, flush the brakes again..
also I found it makes no difference in the order which you bleed or flush the calipers as long as all four are done at the same time
Yes, the TECHII opens the different valves while running the pump. It would allow you to power flush the brakes by using the ABS system to pump new fluid to each wheel. You could literally turn on the pump, switch the correct valves and then go to the corresponding wheel and crack the bleeder and it would start flowing fluid. You could also switch all the correct valves and then just go around the car and flush all the calipers at once.
Here is a much better post that showed the hydraulic circuit paths and how to wire up to the module to make the valves and pump operate. It also tells you which ones to operate so the pump would move fluid through the module. The wiring module the poster made was enough to do one wheel at a time. He has to move the valve wiring to operate the valves for another wheel.