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I followed the instructions from the link below and had no problem. The key was a double swivel socket borrowed from a buddy and as stated above removing a couple of hoses and you got it. Good luck!
I bought the double swivel socket from Snap-on and use it for all my cars. I also found it easier to remove the AIR tubing when working on #7 since it comes off so easlily with the finger snap clamps that are used on the rubber hoses.
I bought the double swivel socket from Snap-on and use it for all my cars. I also found it easier to remove the AIR tubing when working on #7 since it comes off so easlily with the finger snap clamps that are used on the rubber hoses.
Hi There,
If your plug is loose in the socket. You can buy a new one that has good rubber inside to firmly hold the plug. If not use the tooth pick trick. Turn your socket(with the plug inside) so the plug is facing up. Put 4 tooth picks in each opening between plug & socket break off excess flush with the bottom of socket. Turn socket upside down & see if the plug is secure in the socket. Should not fall or move. Use anti seize on the threads.Be neat about it, only on the threads. At #7 remove the AIR line 2 10mm bolts hold it on to the side of the block. Metal gasket so no need to worry about breaking it off. Torque is 89 inch lbs. Swing the air line up & out of the way.Doing this eliminates the need for a $40 double swivel socket.
robsc501
UNORDER IT a $5 Autozone does the job not a $50 dollar part
Originally Posted by NatB
Thank Guys !
I ordered the Snap-On double swivel spark plug socket .
Follow up - seems to be the spark plugs should be tightened "finger tight" as specs in my GM Work Manual call out only 11 foot pounds.
With a socket wrench on it- thats just finger tight( just good and firm) .
All other plugs can use a standard straight plug socket. I spent $4.99 at AutoZone and it worked JUST FINE. Did move the hoses and other stuff away before going for #7.
BIGHANK