Electrical problems?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Monterey California
Electrical problems?
Ok. Here is what has transpired in last 5 months.
I pulled the ignition switch and completely cleaned it and reinstalled it. I have checked all the body grounds. I just replaced the battery.
I fired it back up and here are the DTC's I still get:
0102 H C - mass air flow circuit low voltage
0155 C - Heated O2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1
0522 H C engine oil pressure sensor low voltage
1432 H C fuel level sensor low voltage
I was getting more O2 sensor readings when I first posted several months ago.
I can drive it one day and it runs great or even in the same day. When accelerating it sounds like the the plugs are loaded up and it makes a popping noise. I can accelerate through it and it stops.
Then when I'm cruising in Drive at 1500 RPM'S at 55 it starts going blug - blug - blug like its running on less than 8 cylinders. fuel mileage drops to about 8 miles to the gallon instead of 18 at that speed.
When I jump on it I smell gas coming from the exhaust and it burns real rich and leaves residue on rear end and spoiler.
Car is completely modified here is link to cars vitals http://www.corvetteonsale.com/Corvette_specs.htm
Where do I start now?
Thanks for your help!
I pulled the ignition switch and completely cleaned it and reinstalled it. I have checked all the body grounds. I just replaced the battery.
I fired it back up and here are the DTC's I still get:
0102 H C - mass air flow circuit low voltage
0155 C - Heated O2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1
0522 H C engine oil pressure sensor low voltage
1432 H C fuel level sensor low voltage
I was getting more O2 sensor readings when I first posted several months ago.
I can drive it one day and it runs great or even in the same day. When accelerating it sounds like the the plugs are loaded up and it makes a popping noise. I can accelerate through it and it stops.
Then when I'm cruising in Drive at 1500 RPM'S at 55 it starts going blug - blug - blug like its running on less than 8 cylinders. fuel mileage drops to about 8 miles to the gallon instead of 18 at that speed.
When I jump on it I smell gas coming from the exhaust and it burns real rich and leaves residue on rear end and spoiler.
Car is completely modified here is link to cars vitals http://www.corvetteonsale.com/Corvette_specs.htm
Where do I start now?
Thanks for your help!
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Monterey California
I started car yesterday and for about 3 miles it ran horrible, crapping out and stuff. Then all of a sudden it started running awesome. Drove another 5 miles to office in stop and go and no problems. Started it and drove it several times during the day and back home and it ran great.
The only problem I still have which I can live with for now is when I jump on it the supercharger kicks in but I still smell the gas from the back exhaust.
I will update when I drive it today.
The only problem I still have which I can live with for now is when I jump on it the supercharger kicks in but I still smell the gas from the back exhaust.
I will update when I drive it today.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Read and post your DTCs again Clear them all and see if ant return. What tune do you have, when was it tuned and who tuned it?? Do you have data logging equipment?
Need to see:
- LTFTs
- O2 sensor reading (Oscillating high low high low.... when at operating temp and closed loop)
- MAP
- make sure your in closed loop
Make SURE all THREE engine grounds are TIGHT and all the ground wires are attached!!!!!!
Make sure that thee are ZERO vacuum leaks.
BC
Need to see:
- LTFTs
- O2 sensor reading (Oscillating high low high low.... when at operating temp and closed loop)
- MAP
- make sure your in closed loop
Make SURE all THREE engine grounds are TIGHT and all the ground wires are attached!!!!!!
Make sure that thee are ZERO vacuum leaks.
BC
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Monterey California
just cleared them all. Car ran good again so far today. only once at about 60 did it do the hesitation move and fuel drop to about 10 mpg. Then it ran fine again.
Another thing I noticed is that the weather has been nice and hot the past two days and in the past it seemed it ran better when whether was warmer.
It hasn't been tuned in a while. I put in shop almost a year ago and got charged $2500 by a specialty shop called rpm-motors.com. They claimed they put it on dino and charged me $595 but never saw any specs. Car came back in worse shape and they had it 4 months.
So last time I can say for sure is a couple of years ago when it was still in Florida. I am at sea level here as well.
I don't have any data logging equip but may be able to get access to it. I assume you need that to get you those 4 readings.
I know that once the car starts it no longer needs the battery. However, if there is a bad battery would it cause a low voltage leak in the system that might cause the problem?
Thanks for helping me again, Mike
Another thing I noticed is that the weather has been nice and hot the past two days and in the past it seemed it ran better when whether was warmer.
It hasn't been tuned in a while. I put in shop almost a year ago and got charged $2500 by a specialty shop called rpm-motors.com. They claimed they put it on dino and charged me $595 but never saw any specs. Car came back in worse shape and they had it 4 months.
So last time I can say for sure is a couple of years ago when it was still in Florida. I am at sea level here as well.
I don't have any data logging equip but may be able to get access to it. I assume you need that to get you those 4 readings.
I know that once the car starts it no longer needs the battery. However, if there is a bad battery would it cause a low voltage leak in the system that might cause the problem?
Thanks for helping me again, Mike
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,628
Likes: 15
From: Seattle WA
I was wondering what you meant by this statement. If you're saying that in a car, the battery is only used for starting the vehicle, you're 90% correct. It also acts as a reservoir and an accumulator, so if you're drawing more current than your alternator can provide at a given RPM, the draw comes off the battery.
If you are instead saying that you have taken the battery off the car at some point while it was running and the engine didn't die...well, I will believe that it didn't die, but I must caution you against ever doing this. Alternators use a signal from the battery to determine how much current to produce, and removing the battery can allow the alternator to blast a voltage spike through your system. I've seen over 60 volts direct current from an alternator running on a floating system without a battery. Usually you will see between 14-20 volts idling without a battery. Voltages of this level will fry everything electronic in your car.
If you are instead saying that you have taken the battery off the car at some point while it was running and the engine didn't die...well, I will believe that it didn't die, but I must caution you against ever doing this. Alternators use a signal from the battery to determine how much current to produce, and removing the battery can allow the alternator to blast a voltage spike through your system. I've seen over 60 volts direct current from an alternator running on a floating system without a battery. Usually you will see between 14-20 volts idling without a battery. Voltages of this level will fry everything electronic in your car.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,628
Likes: 15
From: Seattle WA
Do you have cats? If not, that's probably the problem; you will get some gas smell without them. If so, the problems you've been having might have cooked the cats. Just a thought.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Monterey California
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
TRIOS is correct! Battery is ALWAYS USED! Your car is significantly modified. You need to find a forum member in your area that can help you with with the diagnosis and troubleshooting. I still think you have some sort of an electrical issue. The grounds on the engine MUST be clean and tight. Make SURE that your ignition switch is really out putting the correct voltages. If you get specific module DTCs make sure that module is getting all the correct voltages. If its getting the correct voltages, then look for a faulty ground for that component.
Any one with EFI Live or HP Tuners or a Predator can data log for you.
When your car acts up, read the DIC DIGITAL VOLT METER and post the voltage.
BC
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Monterey California
I was wondering what you meant by this statement. If you're saying that in a car, the battery is only used for starting the vehicle, you're 90% correct. It also acts as a reservoir and an accumulator, so if you're drawing more current than your alternator can provide at a given RPM, the draw comes off the battery.
If you are instead saying that you have taken the battery off the car at some point while it was running and the engine didn't die...well, I will believe that it didn't die, but I must caution you against ever doing this. Alternators use a signal from the battery to determine how much current to produce, and removing the battery can allow the alternator to blast a voltage spike through your system. I've seen over 60 volts direct current from an alternator running on a floating system without a battery. Usually you will see between 14-20 volts idling without a battery. Voltages of this level will fry everything electronic in your car.
If you are instead saying that you have taken the battery off the car at some point while it was running and the engine didn't die...well, I will believe that it didn't die, but I must caution you against ever doing this. Alternators use a signal from the battery to determine how much current to produce, and removing the battery can allow the alternator to blast a voltage spike through your system. I've seen over 60 volts direct current from an alternator running on a floating system without a battery. Usually you will see between 14-20 volts idling without a battery. Voltages of this level will fry everything electronic in your car.
I pulled ignition switch and was still having probs so I replaced battery. It may have been a combination.
Once I put the new battery in I got the crapping out for about 3 miles and now it seems to running fine. So, is it possible that now that enough current is getting through the system that the brain has reset and is working correctly?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Monterey California
Bill, did as you said and reset everything. Just drove it on highway and for extended period of time at 25 MPH. Car ran fine the whole time.
Came back and rechecked the codes.
No more O2 sensor DTC
Got these same ones:
0102 mass air flow circuit
0522 engine oil pressure (neither gauge works)
1432 fuel level sensor (neither gauge works)
Also no TCS or BCM errors either.
Came back and rechecked the codes.
No more O2 sensor DTC
Got these same ones:
0102 mass air flow circuit
0522 engine oil pressure (neither gauge works)
1432 fuel level sensor (neither gauge works)
Also no TCS or BCM errors either.
Last edited by NasteVette; Sep 25, 2010 at 08:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Monterey California
Drove car today and it started the blug, blug blug. 2000 rpms about 60 miles an hour and gas consumption drops to about 9 mpg. Voltage was around 13.1 to 13.2
When I got to my destination I checked the DTC's
0102
0155
0522
1432
So I got the O2 sensor one back and the problem is back.
Also, noticed that gas gauge on panel actually worked for about a minute and then when to Empty.
What now?
Thanks again,
Mike
PS How would I find someone in my area using the forum who might have the test equipment I need?
When I got to my destination I checked the DTC's
0102
0155
0522
1432
So I got the O2 sensor one back and the problem is back.
Also, noticed that gas gauge on panel actually worked for about a minute and then when to Empty.
What now?
Thanks again,
Mike
PS How would I find someone in my area using the forum who might have the test equipment I need?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,458
Likes: 1,165
From: Dyer, IN
Drove car today and it started the blug, blug blug. 2000 rpms about 60 miles an hour and gas consumption drops to about 9 mpg. Voltage was around 13.1 to 13.2
When I got to my destination I checked the DTC's
0102
0155
0522
1432
So I got the O2 sensor one back and the problem is back.
Also, noticed that gas gauge on panel actually worked for about a minute and then when to Empty.
What now?
Thanks again,
Mike
PS How would I find someone in my area using the forum who might have the test equipment I need?
When I got to my destination I checked the DTC's
0102
0155
0522
1432
So I got the O2 sensor one back and the problem is back.
Also, noticed that gas gauge on panel actually worked for about a minute and then when to Empty.
What now?
Thanks again,
Mike
PS How would I find someone in my area using the forum who might have the test equipment I need?
Also, I would have a look at G106 for security, just above the starter.
