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I hate to use the "I heard this or that" to make a comment so I will say that it was my understanding that the big advantage of a synthetic motor oil , besides running a little cooler than regular motor oil, was that it significantly reduces engine wear and doesn't get quite as thick in cold temperatures after sitting and not that it really "lasts" any longer than regular oil.
I'd like to be more ecologically minded and want to try re-cycled french fry oil. It can be used in my RV engine, it's good to 350 degrees plus for frying, so it should be okay, shouldn't it?
I hate to use the "I heard this or that" to make a comment so I will say that it was my understanding that the big advantage of a synthetic motor oil , besides running a little cooler than regular motor oil, was that it significantly reduces engine wear and doesn't get quite as thick in cold temperatures after sitting and not that it really "lasts" any longer than regular oil.
just wanna ask if you guys have any comments on this....
this C5 oil cover says we will have to use Mobil1 oil, but everyone knows Mobile1 is the expensive type of oil...
do you think we can use regular oil and change it every 3000 miles, will it do the same thing as the Mobil1 under normal driving condition? any comments?
The service interval for oil change should be about 12-15k miles / 12 months (pulling from memory here, lol). So, price is a lil easier in this respect, compared to you wanting to change every 3k with conventional oil. Personal note: I have about 6k on current oil and only at 49% life. I use Mobil 1 10w-30
But if you don't wish to use synthetic, which is okay despite what others say, I would use something with a low ash content like Valvoline. Conventional oil would be good for 6-8k miles or 6 months (both being max interval)
I ran 08 Jeep Wrangler hard and changed every 3 months whatever the milage (which was usually about 6k usually and was always clean). Never had a problem with that beast
The service interval for oil change should be about 12-15k miles / 12 months (pulling from memory here, lol). So, price is a lil easier in this respect, compared to you wanting to change every 3k with conventional oil. Personal note: I have about 6k on current oil and only at 49% life. I use Mobil 1 10w-30
But if you don't wish to use synthetic, which is okay despite what others say, I would use something with a low ash content like Valvoline. Conventional oil would be good for 6-8k miles or 6 months (both being max interval)
I ran 08 Jeep Wrangler hard and changed every 3 months whatever the mileage (which was usually about 6k usually and was always clean). Never had a problem with that beast
You should stick to finance because you obviously know nothing about the development of this engine or the means to keep this engine running well.. when we built this engine we did it with an alloy and components which require a very specific additive package. We built this engine to last 200,000 miles, using this specific GM spec additive package. Its found in Mobil ! and a very few other synthetics. Regular Dino oil will not withstand the shear that this engine see, or protect its gaskets and internal components.. Why do people buy this car and fail to follow the specific guidelines to maintain this engine.. It's the most important and most expensive part of your car. GM was very specific about the oil and the spec.. So specific that if you use Dino oil it will immediately void your warranty... Now I know for most the warranty is gone but the principles behind the intent are still there... I am just blown away by these people like in this thread by a Guy in Finance to recommend how to seriously , destroy the longevity of this engine. They are so clueless here. AS I have said so many times here. " Be Very Careful who you listen too here.."
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Sep 26, 2010 at 08:27 PM.
You should stick to finance because you obviously know nothing about the development of this engine or the means to keep this engine running well.. when we built this engine we did it with an alloy and components which require a very specific additive package. We built this engine to last 200,000 miles, using this specific GM spec additive package. Its found in Mobil ! and a very few other synthetics. Regular Dino oil will not withstand the shear that this engine see, or protect its gaskets and internal components.. Why do people buy this car and fail to follow the specific guidelines to maintain this engine.. It's the most important and most expensive part of your car. GM was very specific about the oil and the spec.. So specific that if you use Dino oil it will immediately void your warranty... Now I know for most the warranty is gone but the principles behind the intent are still there... I am just blown away by these people like in this thread by a Guy in Finance to recommend how to seriously , destroy the longevity of this engine. They are so clueless here. AS I have said so many times here. " Be Very Careful who you listen too here.."
That being said,
Evil, is it safe to run the German 0-30 Mobil 1 in our cars?
That being said,
Evil, is it safe to run the German 0-30 Mobil 1 in our cars?
There are many synthetics out the that post different specs and additive packages. You will see in some cases, ford and Chrysler specs, but unless it specifically says GM4718M. it doesn't have the correct additive package. IN the ten years that Ive been here and retired from GM I am astounded by the number of people that offer advice with any regard for its authenticity, but only because they heard it somewhere, or just believe it, because their logic dictates it.. But in fact their logic is based on nothing.
This is what it looks like
Mobil 1 5W-30 is now an officially dexos1™ licensed product, passing the dexos1™ specification, and has been approved for use in GM vehicles.
Mobil 1 5W-30 meets or exceeds the requirements of:
dexos1™
GM 6094M, GM 4718M (Corvette spec)
Ford WSS-M2C929-A
Honda HTO-06
ACEA A1/B1
ILSAC GF-4 (API Certified - Starburst)
Bill aka ET
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Sep 26, 2010 at 09:08 PM.
There are many synthetics out the that post different specs and additive packages. but unless it specifically says GM4718M. it doesn't have the correct additive package.
I only use synthetics and pretty much only use Amsoil.
I use Lucas synthetic for gear oil.
I think any brand synthetic will do, but it natural for brand loyalty
Here is another clueless guy...( You Think??? ) Brand loyalty has nothing to do with the ability of the oil to comply with the design of the motor and the elements of it's design.
Castrol Edge also has the very specific Castrol 06482 Edge 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil has the GM 4718M spec . It can be used in your LSX engine without the accusation that Mobil and GM are trying to make you use their oil. There are a few others that comply as well.
here is an old school analogy.. Ford use to use a vegetable based oil ( organic ) for their transmission fluid. Now if all transmission oils are the same then GM's transmission oil should be OK for your ford, but put GM's petro based oil in your ford and you will need a complete rebuild of your transmission. The petro based oil turns acidic and attacks all the paper and fiber gaskets and filter found in that transmission.
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Sep 26, 2010 at 09:27 PM.
There are many synthetics out the that post different specs and additive packages. You will see in some cases, ford and Chrysler specs, but unless it specifically says GM4718M. it doesn't have the correct additive package. IN the ten years that Ive been here and retired from GM I am astounded by the number of people that offer advice with any regard for its authenticity, but only because they heard it somewhere, or just believe it, because their logic dictates it.. But in fact their logic is based on nothing.
This is what it looks like
Mobil 1 5W-30 is now an officially dexos1™ licensed product, passing the dexos1™ specification, and has been approved for use in GM vehicles.
Mobil 1 5W-30 meets or exceeds the requirements of:
dexos1™
GM 6094M, GM 4718M (Corvette spec)
Ford WSS-M2C929-A
Honda HTO-06
ACEA A1/B1
ILSAC GF-4 (API Certified - Starburst)
Here is another clueless guy...( You Think??? ) Brand loyalty has nothing to do with the ability of the oil to comply with the design of the motor and the eliments of it's design.
Screw you and the horse you rode in on.
Did you bother to go look at the specs of Amsoil?
Thank you for bringing up to only look for the GM4718M.
Instead of being a jerk, how about trying to educate and explain what the spec means and why it was chosen.
Most people don't know to look for a specific specification nor what it means. They go for brand loyalty or what's on sale.
99% of the people here are not automotive engineers or retired ones.
I've been in the structural steel engineering, design and fabrication business for over 28 years. When I deal with someone that is green, I explain and give some historical background so they can understand and build on their knowledge. I don't say they are idiots and only do it my way without question.
Screw you and the horse you rode in on.
Did you bother to go look at the specs of Amsoil?
Thank you for bringing up to only look for the GM4718M.
Instead of being a jerk, how about trying to educate and explain what the spec means and why it was chosen.
I dont have to explain a thing.. I am an advocate against people like you that are clueless here but still offer advice that is incorrect, yet still offer it to someone who just might believe you.
You are the one who said this " I think any brand synthetic will do, but it natural for brand loyalty"
Most people don't know to look for a specific specification nor what it means. They go for brand loyalty or what's on sale.
99% of the people here are not automotive engineers or retired ones.
No but they are smart enought to listen to the advice of the manufacturer, especially when it comes to taking care of the most expensive component of their car.
I've been in the structural steel engineering, design and fabrication business for over 28 years. When I deal with someone that is green, I explain and give some historical background so they can understand and build on their knowledge. I don't say they are idiots and only do it my way without question.
Look in the owners manual. It tells you what type of oil to use what type of antifreeze etc. 99 % of the people who come here over the last ten years know what oil to use.. in fact it tells you right on the oil fill cap what Oil to use. But then we can't idiot proof everything. There is aways someone out there who knows better... I am sure being in the structual steel business makes you an expert on Automotive technology. I guess when the doctor tells you to use a suppository, you swallow it with a glass of water. These cars were 50,000 dollars when they were new.. Many here have over 300,000 miles on their car, without a single problem, because they follow the recommented guidlines in the owners manual. Buy the cheapest oil; that is on sale Indeed. You have alot to learn sonny.
Look in the owners manual. It tells you what type of oil to use what type of antifreeze etc. 99 % of the people who come here over the last ten years know what oil to use.. in fact it tells you right on the oil fill cap what Oil to use. But then we can't idiot proof everything. There is aways someone out there who knows better... I am sure being in the structual steel business makes you an expert on Automotive technology. I guess when the doctor tells you to use a suppository, you swallow it with a glass of water. These cars were 50,000 dollars when they were new.. Many here have over 300,000 miles on their car, without a single problem, because they follow the recommented guidlines in the owners manual. Buy the cheapest oil; that is on sale Indeed. You have alot to learn sonny.
Not an expert, but grew up around an automotive machine shop machining, blueprinting and building street and race engines. Old school education.
Your suppository example is exactly what I'm talking about. If a doctor was to prescribe a suppository to me, I'd expect some education as for the reason and how to take it, not "Here take this and go away"
So to the OP:
Stick with synthetic that meets GM4718M.
We still don't why, but there has got to be a reason.
One of the biggest reason this spec is in place is because the aluminum alloy engine runs hotter than other engines. Any one remember the aluminum Corvair engines from GM back in the 60's.. they were subject to warp under heat. Those motors were lucky to see 50,000 miles.. The GM spec is a rigorous spec for just this reason.. we built the engine to last 200,000 miles . Industry standard is 100,000 miles. We built the engine, and the spec to make sure running this engine in the 220/240 F range would be lubricated properly. This whole thread is just like the threads were some meat packer says its ok to run 87 octane in their car..because they do it and have no problems. OLM says its time to change the oil at 4500 miles because thats the way you drive it. but some guys say they buy synthetic oil thats says its good for 15,000 miles. The list goes on and on. Ten years ago I was trying to get people to get their head out of their 1960's thinking. Now , anyone can buy a C5 and Now ten years later, IM trying to get people to get their head out of their ***, Hey Maybe my suggestion for some to take their suppository orally is the right thing to do. I am officially done with this thread..
with all my love ET