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I have about 5 plugs in my camaro tires but the whole reason of a "proper" patch is it retains the speed rating where a plug does not, you should not have a problem with the plug if you are not driving at crazy speeds. But if you are going to be racing or anything else that involves high performance driving you are going to want to use a patch not a plug cause you dont want a problem with a tire at 120+.
Actually most tire stores these days refuse to patch high speed rated tires by any method. They say they lost their speed rating when they got punctured.
The proper repair of a punctured tire requires a plug for the hole and a patch for the area inside the tire that surrounds the puncture hole. Punctures through the tread can be repaired if they are not too large, but punctures to the sidewall should not be repaired. Tires must be removed from the rim to be properly inspected before being plugged and patched.
Carrying a jack and tire repair tools is all about getting where you are going without damaging a rim in the event you have a flat. Some people are no longer using runflats and the Z06 didn't come with them.
Here's a couple of pics of the Mustang jack I put in mine. A larger eye bolt would fit better but the one I used is large enough to hold the jack in place while I turn the jack handle. I put it where the puck would go instead of carrying pucks.
I have a question about these jacks.
I have exactly 5 inches clearance to the jacking point on my stock-height car, sitting in the garage with the tires fully inflated.
If I had a flat on my non-run-flat tire, about how far would the car drop due to the flat? Would I still have enough room to get the jack under there out-in-the-field so to speak? I've got the temp puncture kit, flashlight, pump, blanket, gloves, etc; but a jack to get it up where I could work on it enough to get it home would add some peace of mind. Anyone had a realworld experience?
Wrench, height is a problem. I've had that thought, all I know is that I used the slime stuff and aired up the tire and then it went flat again. I stopped and aired it up 2 more times and still destroyed the tire. If it happens again some how I'm going to plug it and carry a jack.
If that's the case, why wouldn't you just throw in a can of tire sensor safe fix a flat, instead of causing more damage to the steel belts with a plug?
I don't think that that fix a flat is good for the tire at all. Got to think it throws the balance way off. Probably can't get it all out; not sure about that maybe it can all be cleaned out?? Most likely ruins the tire anyway.
With a plug I'd be comfortable continuing my trip and fixing later, with that spray goo need to fix or get a new tire right away.
Got to go with a plug if you can no doubt about it.
I don't think that that fix a flat is good for the tire at all. Got to think it throws the balance way off. Probably can't get it all out; not sure about that maybe it can all be cleaned out?? Most likely ruins the tire anyway.
Man...I didn't think of all that. You're right, using a plug is the only way to go.
I have real world experience in my departed 02 Z06. Hit a large screw and punctured rear tire at speed. Stopped & plugged it beside interstate. Good sized hole = Took 3 plugs, but did it & then used my portable compressor to air it up. Stopped often to check tire pressure. NEVER did leak!
I've carried a plug kit + small scissors jack + small air compressor in every Vette I've owned. Will be the same on my 2010 Z06. Far superior to ruining the tire via continuing to drive without air pressure at slow speeds.
More scenarios. I agree with the plug method also.
I assume the jack is just used to get the wheel off the ground enough to facilitate getting to the puncture and getting it plugged?
No one is considering removing the wheel on the roadside and plugging it, I assume? So, how much does raising the car a few inches help in getting the job done? In looking at mine, a front flat should be okay, just turn the wheel and roll it to the puncture.
But, the RR is ALWAYS the one with the flat; I think you might be able to position the puncture to the rear, and reach it that way without a jack? Is there room above the tire to do the plug?
Does the jack just make it easier, or is it just about necessary for the job?
Ha, I think I'll let the air out of my RR and see if there's room to do a plug.
Been driving non-run-flats for 6 years, but always have that nagging concern - especially one night when a pressure sensor failed on the way to a nice restaurant. The prospect of trying to plug a tire in a suit was not pleasant - even with a nice OU blanket to trample on.
More scenarios. I agree with the plug method also.
I assume the jack is just used to get the wheel off the ground enough to facilitate getting to the puncture and getting it plugged?
No one is considering removing the wheel on the roadside and plugging it, I assume? So, how much does raising the car a few inches help in getting the job done? In looking at mine, a front flat should be okay, just turn the wheel and roll it to the puncture.
But, the RR is ALWAYS the one with the flat; I think you might be able to position the puncture to the rear, and reach it that way without a jack? Is there room above the tire to do the plug?
Does the jack just make it easier, or is it just about necessary for the job?
Ha, I think I'll let the air out of my RR and see if there's room to do a plug.
Been driving non-run-flats for 6 years, but always have that nagging concern - especially one night when a pressure sensor failed on the way to a nice restaurant. The prospect of trying to plug a tire in a suit was not pleasant - even with a nice OU blanket to trample on.
DG
You dont have enough room at the top the only way to plug it on the car is to position it to the rear like you said which will work but you are either going to have to push the car a few inches and look or have someone else pull it up while you are looking, and you are going ot need a flash light to see the tread even during the day. So yes it can be done without a jack but it makes it easier.
I use a PT Cruiser jack. I had one when I first got the Corvette and it worked very well. When I sold the PT I got a replacement jack from eBay. Comes in a nice pouch. The jack handle fits our lugs.
This subject has come up before and a very compact jack, made by VW, was suggested. I have attached a couple of pictures - one when all folded up and another the way it looks when it will be used. It is very simple, weights less than 4 lbs and is about 12" in the longest dimension. I got mine at a salvage yard for about $20. I get the jack plus a compressor and pucks for the lifting points all in the small compartment at the right rear of my vert and have room to spare..
just checked in on my post and saw all the repiles, boy did i open up a can of worms! great stuff and a lot of help and good advice. i have the run flats so it shouldn't drop much with a flat. i'm still looking but haven't decided on a jack yet but do intend to carry one. i think its a good idea.
I would guess that even with out run flats your car should not even drop 2.5 inches being that is about the width of the sidewall. so 5-2.5 is 2.5 which is pretty low but I would guess you should have at least 3 inches even with no air in a non run flat tire.