It was a sad day on the road and I am looking for some input. While pushing through a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd I heard a strange noise and the car lost power instantly. The reduced power message came across the dash with check engine. I pulled over and popped the hood - no leaks but a faint smell of coolant (Didnt see any white smoke while driving) There is some definate top end valve train noise on one side. Its not violent but the noise is steady with RPM. I am guessing maybe a lifter or something else. I took it into a dealer and I guess it was burning coolant after sitting for a while. I do all of my own work generaly but I am slammed with work right now and just dont have the time to tear into the motor. The car is a 2002 convertible that has been stripped and outfitted a Vortech Supercharger, Dynatech Long Tube Headers and Route 66 Exaust. It has been bang up until now. The dealership is wanting to pull the motor to work on it. I have a full LS7 Clutch set up to install on it anyway so this may be a good route - But I could use some input from some more experienced Corvette enthusiasts. Most of my history lays with Big Power Diesels and Turbos on Harleys. Any ideas on what I may have done ? and is there anything I should be looking at doing to the car while its apart ? any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

I would like to have more info before I turned the dealer loose to pull the motor. Maybe it's just a valve spring. I think you need more info.

 

Yes this is my thought as well, when I asked if they would be checking compression prior to looking to pull the motor or at leave Pulling the valve covers ? Any idea on the coolant? are there passages in the Heads close enough to the Valve train to leak into the cylinders ?

 

Sounds like a blown headgasket

 

First, pull the plugs and check for a clean one. Second, pull the pushrods and check for a bent one.

 

You can pull the valve cover on the suspect side to see if it is a valve.

 

I had a similar issue (except for the coolant loss) turned out to be a collapsed lifter, but sounds like you may have a bent pushrod, head gasket issue, lifter, valve spring, or any combo.... although blown head gasskets are not common on LSXX engines btw .... I'd certainly do a compression test or get one done before letting the stealership pull the engine...there mus be a few good LSXX techs out there in BC other than the dealer... I know there's a good one in Regina....G/L and keep us posted as to what you find...

 

Head gasket or valve train problems do not require engine removal.I would have to see what the problem actually is before I would let them yank that engine!

 

Thanks for all the input, this thing was living RENT FREE in my head all night trying to figure out why they would need to pull the motor to diagnose what I feel is surely a head problem. But in saying that I havent ever tore this motor apart. Thanks again for all the input I will keep the thread posted.

 

If you decide to do the work y ourself, the LS1 and the C5 are pretty easy to work on. The Camaro with the same motor is more of a challenge.

 

Remember...he's dealing with a stealership.

 

no leaks but a faint smell of coolant (Didnt see any white smoke while driving) There is some definate top end valve train noise on one side. Its not violent but the noise is steady with RPM. I am guessing maybe a lifter or something else. I took it into a dealer and I guess it was burning coolant after sitting for a while. I do all of my own work generaly but I am slammed with work right now and just dont have the time to tear into the motor. The car is a 2002 convertible that has been stripped and outfitted a Vortech Supercharger

Sorry to say but this doesn't sound good, I'd just pull the rear plugs on the driver side and look for the beat up one I'll bet the ring lands let go.

 

They still haven't tore in to the car yet as there is only one tech on the shop that they will be cutting loose on it. If in fact it is a ring issue what is the general consensus ? Will i be looing at a complete tear down and overhaul ? If so I would love to to get some advice on what to do to the LS1 before putting it back in. I would have to compliment the Vortech SC with parts that are required. Thanks for all the input.

 

Good Call ! Pulled the plugs today and No.5 Plug was hit. The motors coming out tomorrow, and I am guessing its more than likely screwed NO.3 plug was clean. Bit of a bummer as the motor has 40, 000 kms. on it. Anyone have any recomendations? (lol besides watch my wallet fly !)

 

Sooooooooooo - Great call Cylinder no. 5 ring land let go, I've got it opened up and its toast. Small piece of missing Piston Top is never good ! The worst part is the fact that the cylinder cracked and the motor is done. I am more than likely going to go with an LS1 Long Block from GM for 4K. Is there a better route ? Or should I be adding some needed items while the motor is out ? I am already doing the LS7 clutch upgrade while its out, and could really use some input on what I may or may not need to use on the LS1 replacement. Before finding out the Block was cracked I was thinking of building it into a stroker to complement the SC but now my plans are a little skewed Any input would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

One other Question an obvious one at that - anyone out there know what the main cause for the Piston land failure could be ? Thanks

 

I just checked at Texas Speed and it looked like their short blocks ran about $4,200 so you might check around before you buy.

 

Many believe its cause by the rings being installed "too tight" causing the ends to butt and put pressure on the ring land. Others just attribute it to leaning out or detonation heating up the piston until it fails. Could be a combination of both.

If it were me I'd take the opportunity to put a lower compression forged shortblock in there to better hold up to boost

Good luck witht he rebuild

 

Check on how much more an LS6 crate long block would cost.

 

This is exactly what I am doing right now, I have sourced an LS1 Long Block. Would the LS6 Long Block bolt right in ? I have read so many threads describing how they recieved cadilac blocks and there were some issues. I just dont know enough about the castings and heads.

 

Find a LS6 engine and install that. Your ring land issue could very well have been caused by detonation and that would point to a tuning issue. Especially if you have Forced Induction.

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND having your car re-tuned by someone that is a Forced Induction (F/I) tuning seasoned expert.

I have excellent experiences with Corvettes Of Westchester in NY. Chuck uses EFI Live AUTOCAL which will allow you to up-load and tune via E-Mail. Once the tune is up-loaded, you drive the car and data log. Then send the data-log file back to the tuner and he fine tunes that data. He sends you the new precision tune and you up load that tune. You can have him examine you tune as frequently as you like to insure that it spot on.

Some things to consider for a F/I engine install:

- The Crank/damper needs to be pinned. If it isn't already pinned from the engine provider, have it pinned.

- If your getting a short block, make sure that your current valve train is up-graded and ready for the new engine. Hardened push-rods, Patriot Gold Springs..

- What has been done to your OEM fuel system to support F/I?

GOOD LUCK with your wallet at the STEALERSHIP!

BC