There is some adjustment in the engine mount stud/engine bracket. Loosen the top bolt on the engine mount and with a BIG lever, shift the engine over to the passengers side. It will not be much movement but, maybe just enough to prevent this this problem.

BC

 

Not from what has been posted on this forum......lot's of better fitting quality headers out there by forum vendors!

 

Obviously your searches have been very narrow then. Tell me how many sets of headers you've installed? Not read about, but installed? How many OBX headers have you installed?? I can tell you i've installed all 3 generations of OBX, the dynatchs, thes newest XS power and a few others here and the OBX fit very well.

Did a quick search using "obx fit" first link"
4 posts down.
Definately a crappy header and definately not worth the same or more HP for 1/3 or less of the money..

Oh yeah, I even installed the first gen of SSAC and they fit decently and cost me a total of 200 I think.

Dave

 

I can find other examples of posts regarding "fitting" required. I have never installed them myself....but to answer your question I have installed ARH - excellent and no "fitting" required - PERIOD!!

 

obviously the expensive forum vendors require fitting too. My obx didn't require any "fitting" In fact, to eliminate some of this "fitting" issue a few of the expensive manufacturers eliminate certain brackets, tabs, etc so they have no "fitting" issue. Bet you didn't know that.? My dynatech boots burned and nearly burned the AC hose, my OBX didn't have that issue, the obx tabs for BH were off a bit on one side, but those are useless on a LT design really so some of the "expensive" headers removed them all together. My "expenisve" American made headers hit the ac line, i had to bend it. My boots are very close, the collectors rest on the BH which is a "fitting" issue, the O2 had to be pried on the PS to clear the frame rail, etc. These things are an issue w/ most of these headers. People spewing info they've read is what perpetuates these ideas that you must spend a small fortune for headers or they won't even fit. The cheap ones have the same or even less issues than some of the expensive ones. I've dealt w/ them all. Now that people are starting to finally realize that these cheaper headers are of the same quality, fit, finish, weld quality, etc. the expensive brands are being forced to compete. We all win when the manufacture is forced to compete for our business. A monopoly only hurts us and these forums seem to stimulate monopolies.

 

Looks exactly like the SSAC headers on my wife's car. I tried and tried, and waited and waited for them to make it right, and the "rep" said they would be sending her new headers. After they changed names and got their new ones out, they told me they would sell me new ones for a "reduced" price (which was several hundred $$s more than I had paid originally.) GREAT customer service

I bought a new shaft and while it was off, "dimpled" the header where it was hitting. (The shaft is simple to remove) It cured 95% of the problem. When I swap her heads "next year" I will "dimple" them a little more.

 

I had to dimple mine too, they are texas speed

 

I have never heard from you....? Send me a PM and we will work it out. Customer service is what I strive for and only give the best!

 

This is the only example I have heard of where we have a clearance issue. Most likely something else going on here rather than the fitment issue. TONS of people out there with these headers with straight forward installs, and no "fitting"

 

You'd better make that the 2nd time. There is a guy in the header sale thread with a yellow Vette that was hitting in the same spot just not as much.

Peter

 

PM sent

 

Im having the same problem. Any word on how or if it was fixed? My headers rubb in same spot.

 

Curious how many others have this problem, was about to order some this week.

 

It wouldn't stop me from buying them again. I'd just be prepared to deal with it.

The fit and finish everywhere else we satisfactory to me and I liked being able to reinstall off four O2 sensors where they belonged.

I understand they ship with band clamps now. The clamps I got with mine were trash! I would ask. Cost me about 25 buck to replace them.

 

I would carefully mark the area with sharpie. Pull the headers out and whack them with a sledge hammer and the round side of a socket. Looks like you only need about an eigth inch of clearance.

I've had headers where you had to make room for every spark plug. Seemed like an annoyance, but pretty normal back in the day. Just take your time and massage slowly. Don't give the Thor mighty hammer swing on the first try.