Door lock working in one direction
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Spring TX
Door lock working in one direction
I've been living with this problem for years now.....I hit the unlock button on the remote or either doors and unlock happens perfectly.
I hit the LOCK button on the remote or either door switches and the PASSENGER door lock does nothing......
I've been used to just reaching over and locking it by hand before exiting but it's becoming anoying and decided to go ahead and replace what i thought was a bad actuator on the passenger side.
Turns out it's still doing the same thing!!!
I popped the accordion's on both sides, reached under the A pillar and checked the connectors and they are perfect. The ground wire shows no problem either.
I opened the module inside the passenger door and inspected the board which looks flawless. Seems like it has a silicone coating from the factory to avoid moisture corrosion issues (clever).
The relays click when i hit lock and unlock but who knows if they are working properly...Soo....
I put a multimeter on the connector that supplies power to the actuator and hit the UNLOCK button. Resuted in a voltage of aproximately 14v for a second and then back to zero.
Hit the LOCK button and no voltage....
I now know it doesn't seem to be mechanical but electrical.
Any ideas? Can it be the relays?
I hit the LOCK button on the remote or either door switches and the PASSENGER door lock does nothing......
I've been used to just reaching over and locking it by hand before exiting but it's becoming anoying and decided to go ahead and replace what i thought was a bad actuator on the passenger side.
Turns out it's still doing the same thing!!!
I popped the accordion's on both sides, reached under the A pillar and checked the connectors and they are perfect. The ground wire shows no problem either.
I opened the module inside the passenger door and inspected the board which looks flawless. Seems like it has a silicone coating from the factory to avoid moisture corrosion issues (clever).
The relays click when i hit lock and unlock but who knows if they are working properly...Soo....
I put a multimeter on the connector that supplies power to the actuator and hit the UNLOCK button. Resuted in a voltage of aproximately 14v for a second and then back to zero.
Hit the LOCK button and no voltage....
I now know it doesn't seem to be mechanical but electrical.
Any ideas? Can it be the relays?
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
From: SoCal California
It's the Relays....
I've been living with this problem for years now.....I hit the unlock button on the remote or either doors and unlock happens perfectly.
I hit the LOCK button on the remote or either door switches and the PASSENGER door lock does nothing......
I've been used to just reaching over and locking it by hand before exiting but it's becoming anoying and decided to go ahead and replace what i thought was a bad actuator on the passenger side.
Turns out it's still doing the same thing!!!
I popped the accordion's on both sides, reached under the A pillar and checked the connectors and they are perfect. The ground wire shows no problem either.
I opened the module inside the passenger door and inspected the board which looks flawless. Seems like it has a silicone coating from the factory to avoid moisture corrosion issues (clever).
The relays click when i hit lock and unlock but who knows if they are working properly...Soo....
I put a multimeter on the connector that supplies power to the actuator and hit the UNLOCK button. Resuted in a voltage of aproximately 14v for a second and then back to zero.
Hit the LOCK button and no voltage....
I now know it doesn't seem to be mechanical but electrical.
Any ideas? Can it be the relays?
I hit the LOCK button on the remote or either door switches and the PASSENGER door lock does nothing......
I've been used to just reaching over and locking it by hand before exiting but it's becoming anoying and decided to go ahead and replace what i thought was a bad actuator on the passenger side.
Turns out it's still doing the same thing!!!
I popped the accordion's on both sides, reached under the A pillar and checked the connectors and they are perfect. The ground wire shows no problem either.
I opened the module inside the passenger door and inspected the board which looks flawless. Seems like it has a silicone coating from the factory to avoid moisture corrosion issues (clever).
The relays click when i hit lock and unlock but who knows if they are working properly...Soo....
I put a multimeter on the connector that supplies power to the actuator and hit the UNLOCK button. Resuted in a voltage of aproximately 14v for a second and then back to zero.
Hit the LOCK button and no voltage....
I now know it doesn't seem to be mechanical but electrical.
Any ideas? Can it be the relays?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 5
From: Overland Park KS
http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#DCM
I lived with my door issue for a year until I read the above and fixed it for $15 and a little time. Get extra relays since shipping will be more than the relay.
You can "de-solder" the old relay and look at it first. Probably has some burnt looking contacts inside, some will clean them up and re-use the relay, I just replaced them since they are fairly cheap.
I lived with my door issue for a year until I read the above and fixed it for $15 and a little time. Get extra relays since shipping will be more than the relay.
You can "de-solder" the old relay and look at it first. Probably has some burnt looking contacts inside, some will clean them up and re-use the relay, I just replaced them since they are fairly cheap.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
From: SoCal California
That's the fix.
http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#DCM
I lived with my door issue for a year until I read the above and fixed it for $15 and a little time. Get extra relays since shipping will be more than the relay.
You can "de-solder" the old relay and look at it first. Probably has some burnt looking contacts inside, some will clean them up and re-use the relay, I just replaced them since they are fairly cheap.
I lived with my door issue for a year until I read the above and fixed it for $15 and a little time. Get extra relays since shipping will be more than the relay.
You can "de-solder" the old relay and look at it first. Probably has some burnt looking contacts inside, some will clean them up and re-use the relay, I just replaced them since they are fairly cheap.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 3
From: Bakersfield CA
I've been living with this problem for years now.....I hit the unlock button on the remote or either doors and unlock happens perfectly.
I hit the LOCK button on the remote or either door switches and the PASSENGER door lock does nothing......
I've been used to just reaching over and locking it by hand before exiting but it's becoming anoying and decided to go ahead and replace what i thought was a bad actuator on the passenger side.
Turns out it's still doing the same thing!!!
I popped the accordion's on both sides, reached under the A pillar and checked the connectors and they are perfect. The ground wire shows no problem either.
I opened the module inside the passenger door and inspected the board which looks flawless. Seems like it has a silicone coating from the factory to avoid moisture corrosion issues (clever).
The relays click when i hit lock and unlock but who knows if they are working properly...Soo....
I put a multimeter on the connector that supplies power to the actuator and hit the UNLOCK button. Resuted in a voltage of aproximately 14v for a second and then back to zero.
Hit the LOCK button and no voltage....
I now know it doesn't seem to be mechanical but electrical.
Any ideas? Can it be the relays?
I hit the LOCK button on the remote or either door switches and the PASSENGER door lock does nothing......
I've been used to just reaching over and locking it by hand before exiting but it's becoming anoying and decided to go ahead and replace what i thought was a bad actuator on the passenger side.
Turns out it's still doing the same thing!!!
I popped the accordion's on both sides, reached under the A pillar and checked the connectors and they are perfect. The ground wire shows no problem either.
I opened the module inside the passenger door and inspected the board which looks flawless. Seems like it has a silicone coating from the factory to avoid moisture corrosion issues (clever).
The relays click when i hit lock and unlock but who knows if they are working properly...Soo....
I put a multimeter on the connector that supplies power to the actuator and hit the UNLOCK button. Resuted in a voltage of aproximately 14v for a second and then back to zero.
Hit the LOCK button and no voltage....
I now know it doesn't seem to be mechanical but electrical.
Any ideas? Can it be the relays?
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
From: SoCal California
My Relays Were Potted
http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#DCM
I lived with my door issue for a year until I read the above and fixed it for $15 and a little time. Get extra relays since shipping will be more than the relay.
You can "de-solder" the old relay and look at it first. Probably has some burnt looking contacts inside, some will clean them up and re-use the relay, I just replaced them since they are fairly cheap.
I lived with my door issue for a year until I read the above and fixed it for $15 and a little time. Get extra relays since shipping will be more than the relay.
You can "de-solder" the old relay and look at it first. Probably has some burnt looking contacts inside, some will clean them up and re-use the relay, I just replaced them since they are fairly cheap.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
From: SoCal California
Where to get em...
That's the tutorial I followed. The relays were back ordered at nearly every website I searched. I ended up ordering them from Canada. And I bought an extra set. I think they were $3.00 each. I'll see if I saved any info about where I ordered them from and post it up here.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 5
From: Overland Park KS
Check the other part numbers below. Just recently I saw one of them was a little easier to get. Check eBay and I believe there are several suppliers in the UK.
JSM1-12V-4 which has a rated capacity of 10 amps
JSM1E-12V-5-H15 which was on my board, I couldn't find any information on this relay.
JSM1-12V-5 which is rated at 15 amps
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Check the other part numbers below. Just recently I saw one of them was a little easier to get. Check eBay and I believe there are several suppliers in the UK.
JSM1-12V-4 which has a rated capacity of 10 amps
JSM1E-12V-5-H15 which was on my board, I couldn't find any information on this relay.
JSM1-12V-5 which is rated at 15 amps
JSM1-12V-4 which has a rated capacity of 10 amps
JSM1E-12V-5-H15 which was on my board, I couldn't find any information on this relay.
JSM1-12V-5 which is rated at 15 amps
I ran across a supplier (Newark) but they ship these (JSM1-12V-5) from England (Farrell appears to be their Brit owned branch) and an order carries a $20.00 non-refundable fee on top of the purchase price.
It's the JSM1-12V-5 that I have been checking on everywhere and everyone's out, or the places that DO have them seem to be wholsalers and their sites say "call for quote" or "e-mail for quote" on prices. I sent a couple of RFQs this afternoon but they won't answer until Monday. All the suppliers seem to be very aware of the fact that these are in short supply right now.
I haven't been able to come across a tech-sheet on the JSM1E-12V-5-H15 to compare specs.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 781
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo Grove IL
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Mouser and Digi-Key both have them on backorder. One of them has an expected delivery date of 12-10.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 5
From: Overland Park KS
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 0
From: upstate N.Y.
I've been living with this problem for years now.....I hit the unlock button on the remote or either doors and unlock happens perfectly.
I hit the LOCK button on the remote or either door switches and the PASSENGER door lock does nothing......
I've been used to just reaching over and locking it by hand before exiting but it's becoming anoying and decided to go ahead and replace what i thought was a bad actuator on the passenger side.
Turns out it's still doing the same thing!!!
I popped the accordion's on both sides, reached under the A pillar and checked the connectors and they are perfect. The ground wire shows no problem either.
I opened the module inside the passenger door and inspected the board which looks flawless. Seems like it has a silicone coating from the factory to avoid moisture corrosion issues (clever).
The relays click when i hit lock and unlock but who knows if they are working properly...Soo....
I put a multimeter on the connector that supplies power to the actuator and hit the UNLOCK button. Resuted in a voltage of aproximately 14v for a second and then back to zero.
Hit the LOCK button and no voltage....
I now know it doesn't seem to be mechanical but electrical.
Any ideas? Can it be the relays?
I hit the LOCK button on the remote or either door switches and the PASSENGER door lock does nothing......
I've been used to just reaching over and locking it by hand before exiting but it's becoming anoying and decided to go ahead and replace what i thought was a bad actuator on the passenger side.
Turns out it's still doing the same thing!!!
I popped the accordion's on both sides, reached under the A pillar and checked the connectors and they are perfect. The ground wire shows no problem either.
I opened the module inside the passenger door and inspected the board which looks flawless. Seems like it has a silicone coating from the factory to avoid moisture corrosion issues (clever).
The relays click when i hit lock and unlock but who knows if they are working properly...Soo....
I put a multimeter on the connector that supplies power to the actuator and hit the UNLOCK button. Resuted in a voltage of aproximately 14v for a second and then back to zero.
Hit the LOCK button and no voltage....
I now know it doesn't seem to be mechanical but electrical.
Any ideas? Can it be the relays?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Spring TX
Removed both bottom relays from the board, now waiting for the relays to come in the mail...I'll check in to tell you how it worked out when they come in and install them.
Oh btw, Ralphs Industrial electronic supplies has 10 in stock Part # PANS-JSM112V5 for $1.78 each + shipping. I bought 6.
Oh btw, Ralphs Industrial electronic supplies has 10 in stock Part # PANS-JSM112V5 for $1.78 each + shipping. I bought 6.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Removed both bottom relays from the board, now waiting for the relays to come in the mail...I'll check in to tell you how it worked out when they come in and install them.
Oh btw, Ralphs Industrial electronic supplies has 10 in stock Part # PANS-JSM112V5 for $1.78 each + shipping. I bought 6.
Oh btw, Ralphs Industrial electronic supplies has 10 in stock Part # PANS-JSM112V5 for $1.78 each + shipping. I bought 6.
Cowabunga! Talk about fast!
