Yes, they have different part numbers printed on the label that's on the black box, but open up the box and they are identical. You know how cheap GM is, why would they design and manufacture 2 different door control modules when they can make one to work with both doors. They just have different part numbers to jack the price up.

 

Have you been able to figure out a way to see inside or test the ROMs or RAMs chips on the board(s) and determine that they are in fact "identical"? Besides, GM did not, and usually does not, design and build their own electronics or modules anyways. Usually private companies do these things under contract.

Like I said before, I think the only thing that makes sense is that on certain parts of the real estate on the boards, the circuits are the same, and other sections or the parts of the overall circuitry that deals with other functions, they are different. The notion that GM did this to "jack the price up" is just silly.

 

Silly or not, $450 for a door control module is not funny. It is obvious that we are not going to agree so those of you reading this, check it out for yourselves. YOU WILL NOT HURT THE MODULE BY SWAPPING THEM AROUND. I wouldn't tell you if it would hurt your module or car. End of story.

 

Hey, listen up there Sparky, I never said these things won't interchange and at least some of the functions will work or that you will "HURT THE MODULE", YOU did. You seem to be saying hey, they're both the same so therefore just buy either one for whichever side you need it for. It doesn't ,matter.

What I am saying is that these have two different part numbers for a reason, and logically it makes sense that the driver's side has more functions, if for no other reason than it can control the window on the passenger side and it can also control the outside rearview mirrors on both sides. If someone wants to check their door lock solenoid or window motor to be sure that they are not the problem, and by temporarily swapping sides for testing purposes allows that, then great.
But testing, and just disregarding the side specific part number is asking for trouble, or at least a headache when some function or other doesn't work.

As far as this $450 you mention, I have done even cursory searches and prices run from $30-40 to $100 for used and $250 -$400 for new. Regardless, the whole point of this thread is to be able to fix or repair these things WITHOUT buying new, so I don't understand why a new unit is even being considered here.
Btw, I found at least two sources that will rebuild your old unit (probably replace the relays and test it) and return it to you for prices in the $65 to $70 range. Crazy expensive, huh?

 

I did replaced both relays on both boards and I think I remember that the connectors are different for each board so you may not be able to "Swap" them for testing purposes. Have you tried yet?

 

I haven't, but C5at57 says they are the same so,..........

 

What year is your car? The boards on my 2002 Z are different. Or maybe it's just the connectors and wiring that is different? I'm so cornfused now.......

 

I have looked at the schematics and the plug description and these two modules APPEAR to be the same. However on the passenger side not all the inputs are used. For example if you look at the 26 pin connector C4 Natural (clear) you will notice on the passenger side pins 1-6 are not used however on the drivers side these pins are used to select which mirror to adjust. Also you will note that pins 16-20 are not used on the passenger side and again are used on the drivers side for which memory # you are using. There are a few other differences like this but as far as the module goes it appear that they are interchangeable. Now I am not going out on a limb here and telling everyone that this is the Gospel just and educated opinion after a cursory look at the document. Instead of going after each other maybe we should start asking why the parts house are charging different amount for RH vs LH modules. This is the same as when I replaced the lock actuator when you say CORVETTE the parts people see $$$. However if you do some investigating you see that you can replace the actuator with one for a Caviler or a Silverado for about 30% less. There does appear to be a difference in the 97-99 year and 00-04 however I did not look into this with great detail. The 97-99 are over 5 bills if bought new. As was pointed out this thread is about repairing them. Lets just get along and try to help each other instead of looking for things to pick apart about each others post.

Thanks

65 Roadster **** 78 Pace Car **** 02 Convert

 

Has anyone seen these relays in stock recently?

 

These two modules are NOT the same. At least on my car they're not. The passenger module installed on the drivers door, will roll the window down and up, lock and unlock the drivers door but nothing else. The drivers door module works both sides and the memory funtion. I bought a pair of door modules off of ebay, because my drivers door module would only work part time. I bought the car this way. I took the drivers module to one of the electronics techs at work, to replace the relays. Digi-key still don't have them, and don't know if they will ever get them again. I'm going to try the other part numbers mentioned in this thread to see if they will interchange.

 

The boards were absolutely different on the two sides of my 2002 Z06. Even the connections were different. I guess we need to beware of the possibility of bad information on here. Luckily, these boards aren't crazy expensive. I'd hate to make a decision on a part that costs much more only to find that someone touting having given information to "countless" others was actually giving out faulty information... Or, perhaps the "countless" business is an exaggeration?

 

Having one of your techs remove the bad relays is a good idea. The desoldering part wasn't too bad after I taught myself how to do it, but seperating the relays from the board and all the goop that GM put over and under them was a BITCH! I'm lucky I didn't crack one of the circuit traces in the process...

 

I bought mine at Futureelectronics.com. They were $2.49 each. Their website made it seem like they would only sell to wholesalers but they sold me 8 of them so.....

 

I notice your profile says you are in Illinois. I was just looking at my invoice from when I bought the relays and they shipped to me from this location:

Future Electronics Inc.
3255 Pay Sphere Circle
Chicago, IL
60674

They are a Canadian company but I think this must be their US distribution point. The phone number to their Canadian office is:
514 694 7710

They had hundreds available when I ordered them 6 months ago.

Good luck.....

 

Sometimes, in order to "help each other" and in the interest of the greater good, it may be necessary to "pick apart" someone's post.

 

Thanks for the info, I'll give them a try. If I can get my original module repaired I'll have a spare.

 

OK guys; like many of you I had the same symptoms as av8rdavid.
I checked the pillar connectors; even put it back together with some dielectric grease so that won't develop later. I ended up concluding I needed to do the fix posted here by KCvetteowner.
I ordered several of the type 5 relays from digi-key and just replaced the suspect relay. Same problem ensues! Not sure I see this part of my issue listed by anyone else, but if I push the lock button repeatedly it does eventually engage and lock (locks 1 out of every 5 pushes). It was doing this previosly so I figured the relay was failing and only intermittent. Thoughts???

 

So, a couple of things to consider. One is that there are two relays on each board that control the door lock and two that control the windows. Did you replace both door lock relays? Second, it sounds like you may have the other problem that many people report which is the door lock actuator may be on the fritz. That is an assembly that is near the locking mechanism itself. Some people have reported that lubricating the mechanics of he mechanism have solved their problem. When I fixed the relays on my boards I discovered that you get a lot of friction in the area where the two rods that go to the locking mechanism rubbed on part of the support structure inside the door. I lubed that area with just a little graphite grease and then used WD40 all around the actuator assemblies and mine seemed to operate much smoother. One guy told me he even used two pairs of vise grips and created a bend in one of the rods to prevent it from rubbing - but I was chicken to try it. Going on about 8 months now and all still works smooth. If lubing and replacing the second relay doesn't work, do a search on replacing the actuator.

 

Just as a test, swap the drivers side door control module with the passenger side and see if the locks work better. That will at least tell you if the problem is in the module or something else in the door. There are two relays for the lock and unlock function, if you only changed one you might have changed the wrong one.

 

I changed the relay that was marked as the locking relay per the fix listed. I just put a volt meter to it and I'm getting power to the actuator so I removed it and lubricated it and still no resolve so I'm betting that the actuator is the source of the problem. Guess I should have used the voltmeter first; was pretty confident that it was the relay though I'll post my result from this attempt.