Door lock working in one direction
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 233
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
An actuator is just a coil of wire. It can't fail in only one lock direction. Did you check that both the relays are properly grounded when not energized? Even if you have voltage on one side the actuator won't fire if the other wire isn't grounded.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 233
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
Both wires to the actuator should have zero ohms resistance compared to a reference chassis ground when the lock switch is not being activated. When the lock switch is pushed one of the wires should show battery voltage. When the unlock is pushed the other wire should show battery voltage. The above test still doesn't rule out fried relay contacts but gets you closer to the problem.
The next step is to evaluate current draw. By measuring the current on a lock circuit that works you get a reference amperage. Then on the side that doesn't work test to see what you get. If there is a bad connection (or fried relay contact) the amperage will be considerably lower. There is not enough inductance to drive the actuator in that direction. If you want to figure out which relay is bad you can jump the "ground" actuator contact directly to ground. If the actuator begins working 100% its the ground on one of the relays. If the jumper doesn't help you know it's the other relay's energized contacts that are bad.
Bottom line however, if one contact is bad both relays should be replaced and I'd buy two additional relays for the other door to save on shipping. The main reason I shared the procedure above is to help rule out bad connections and other simple things. I hate wallet diagnostics - replacing parts ***** nilly hoping it will fix the problem.
Last edited by Cratecruncher; Mar 26, 2011 at 09:59 AM.
8th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
No diagram hugh? You know this shi* is on-line right?
Well I changed the unlocking relay or atleast what I believe to be the unlocking relay according to the fix. Works like a charm now!
If anyone else reads this post with this issue and decides to try the fix suggested; just change both relays not just the one!
Thanks guys!
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 233
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville Alabama
I don't think there will be a permanent shortage necessarily. Check back with Mouser Electronics or Digi-Key from time-to-time. They are the two 800 lb gorillas of the electronic supply companies out there these days and as far as I can tell have them on back-order. You may want to check with some of the other smaller, independent, supply companies too.
Personally I wish I could find a relay that had even higher contact ratings like 20A for example. DC current (the arcing) can be brutal on relay contacts, especially with inductive loads like a door solenoid and a 20 amp version would last longer I'm sure due to it's higher contact rating.
Oh well, it is what it is.
Personally I wish I could find a relay that had even higher contact ratings like 20A for example. DC current (the arcing) can be brutal on relay contacts, especially with inductive loads like a door solenoid and a 20 amp version would last longer I'm sure due to it's higher contact rating.
Oh well, it is what it is.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 84
From: Darien IL
989 in stock at Allied Ellectronics. Use JSM1-12V for part number search.
PANASONIC ELECTRIC WORKS
Relay, Automotive, 15A, 12VDC, SPDT HI-Capacity, Sealed PCB
788-0523 JSM1-12V-5 $1.390 Each
I just ordered 4.
Replaced the passenger side locking realy only. It's the bottom one on the passenger side board. I used wicking and a 700 watt iron. You need to activate solder with flux or it will not wick out of the holes in PC board. My 25 watt pencil iron was insufficient for desoldering.
PANASONIC ELECTRIC WORKS
Relay, Automotive, 15A, 12VDC, SPDT HI-Capacity, Sealed PCB
788-0523 JSM1-12V-5 $1.390 Each
I just ordered 4.
Replaced the passenger side locking realy only. It's the bottom one on the passenger side board. I used wicking and a 700 watt iron. You need to activate solder with flux or it will not wick out of the holes in PC board. My 25 watt pencil iron was insufficient for desoldering.
Last edited by UstaB-GS549; Jul 23, 2011 at 11:00 AM.
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas NEVADA
I'm trying to determine if I have same problem.
My drivers door lock works does not lock or unlock with fob. pass side works great. the interior lock/unlock control button has no effect on lock, though i can hear clicking. I have panel off and would like to test light the proper wire for voltage when i press fob. does this sound like a module relay problem? if i take door module out is there a test to see if it's bad? can pass side module be used to test drivers door?
Any help would be appreciated.
My drivers door lock works does not lock or unlock with fob. pass side works great. the interior lock/unlock control button has no effect on lock, though i can hear clicking. I have panel off and would like to test light the proper wire for voltage when i press fob. does this sound like a module relay problem? if i take door module out is there a test to see if it's bad? can pass side module be used to test drivers door?
Any help would be appreciated.
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Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
From: SoCal California
Sounds like the relay
I'm trying to determine if I have same problem.
My drivers door lock works does not lock or unlock with fob. pass side works great. the interior lock/unlock control button has no effect on lock, though i can hear clicking. I have panel off and would like to test light the proper wire for voltage when i press fob. does this sound like a module relay problem? if i take door module out is there a test to see if it's bad? can pass side module be used to test drivers door?
Any help would be appreciated.
My drivers door lock works does not lock or unlock with fob. pass side works great. the interior lock/unlock control button has no effect on lock, though i can hear clicking. I have panel off and would like to test light the proper wire for voltage when i press fob. does this sound like a module relay problem? if i take door module out is there a test to see if it's bad? can pass side module be used to test drivers door?
Any help would be appreciated.
I tried when my two door panels were off and the boards were not interchangeable on my 2002 Z06.
Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 807
Likes: 21
From: Los Altos CA
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas NEVADA
I am going to try to swap modules from pass to drivers.
Before I do that, I was thinking of putting 12v from battery with a 5 amp inline fuse to see if the actuator works. Can I just touch those leads to where harness disconnects to pins in actuator to rule out actuator problem? I don't want to fry anything. Is there an easier way to rule out actuator?
Before I do that, I was thinking of putting 12v from battery with a 5 amp inline fuse to see if the actuator works. Can I just touch those leads to where harness disconnects to pins in actuator to rule out actuator problem? I don't want to fry anything. Is there an easier way to rule out actuator?
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas NEVADA
As far as door module goes, I know the 2 bottom ones are for lock and unlock. Is the third one for window ?
would any of those relays cause an erratic drivers power mirror upon pressing the "memory 1" button?
would any of those relays cause an erratic drivers power mirror upon pressing the "memory 1" button?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 294
From: West of Burlington, Ontario Canada
Interesting thread! Surprised it isn't a sticky? Anyway this is a great fix for an otherwise very expensive part. I put a test light on the leads from the module to the actuator and got a signal that both lock and unlock power was being sent to the actuator. Therefore determined that the actuator was at fault. So i bought an actuator from GM for the drivers side and installed it. Same problem? (seems you can buy just the actuator for the passenger side in the aftermarket but can't for the drivers side. You must buy the whole latch assembly for the drivers side)?
Anyway if you test for output power from the module and get it, it doesn't mean you're getting the amperage. I guess this is why the dealer wants to change both of these items at the same time? I'm gonna try the relays and see what happens.
Anyway if you test for output power from the module and get it, it doesn't mean you're getting the amperage. I guess this is why the dealer wants to change both of these items at the same time? I'm gonna try the relays and see what happens.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 384
Likes: 81
From: BC
U can get them direct from Digi Key in Thief River Falls MN 56701-0677 . Its pn 255-1240 -ND Shipped fed ex to your home cheap
and then take to an audio repair place and they can do ,
my 2 DCMs cost me 25 bucks for the labour and 25 bucks for the relays delivered.
one of the funniest things after repair was that when I take the key out of the ignition it unlocks the doors , never before
and then take to an audio repair place and they can do ,
my 2 DCMs cost me 25 bucks for the labour and 25 bucks for the relays delivered.
one of the funniest things after repair was that when I take the key out of the ignition it unlocks the doors , never before
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 294
From: West of Burlington, Ontario Canada
Interesting thread! Surprised it isn't a sticky? Anyway this is a great fix for an otherwise very expensive part. I put a test light on the leads from the module to the actuator and got a signal that both lock and unlock power was being sent to the actuator. Therefore determined that the actuator was at fault. So i bought an actuator from GM for the drivers side and installed it. Same problem? (seems you can buy just the actuator for the passenger side in the aftermarket but can't for the drivers side. You must buy the whole latch assembly for the drivers side)?
Anyway if you test for output power from the module and get it, it doesn't mean you're getting the amperage. I guess this is why the dealer wants to change both of these items at the same time? I'm gonna try the relays and see what happens.
Anyway if you test for output power from the module and get it, it doesn't mean you're getting the amperage. I guess this is why the dealer wants to change both of these items at the same time? I'm gonna try the relays and see what happens.
Replaced both relays and it's fixed! Thanks to the pioneers that dug into this issue. $4.00 worth of relays and an hour of my time is much cheaper than $400.00 plus for a new module!
Thanks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 161
From: PNW
http://www.valleyvettes.ca/door_module.html
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 53
Likes: 2
From: TYLER,TX.
Hey, listen up there Sparky, I never said these things won't interchange and at least some of the functions will work or that you will "HURT THE MODULE", YOU did. 
You seem to be saying hey, they're both the same so therefore just buy either one for whichever side you need it for. It doesn't ,matter.
What I am saying is that these have two different part numbers for a reason, and logically it makes sense that the driver's side has more functions, if for no other reason than it can control the window on the passenger side and it can also control the outside rearview mirrors on both sides. If someone wants to check their door lock solenoid or window motor to be sure that they are not the problem, and by temporarily swapping sides for testing purposes allows that, then great.
But testing, and just disregarding the side specific part number is asking for trouble, or at least a headache when some function or other doesn't work.
As far as this $450 you mention, I have done even cursory searches and prices run from $30-40 to $100 for used and $250 -$400 for new. Regardless, the whole point of this thread is to be able to fix or repair these things WITHOUT buying new, so I don't understand why a new unit is even being considered here.
Btw, I found at least two sources that will rebuild your old unit (probably replace the relays and test it) and return it to you for prices in the $65 to $70 range. Crazy expensive, huh?
You seem to be saying hey, they're both the same so therefore just buy either one for whichever side you need it for. It doesn't ,matter.What I am saying is that these have two different part numbers for a reason, and logically it makes sense that the driver's side has more functions, if for no other reason than it can control the window on the passenger side and it can also control the outside rearview mirrors on both sides. If someone wants to check their door lock solenoid or window motor to be sure that they are not the problem, and by temporarily swapping sides for testing purposes allows that, then great.
But testing, and just disregarding the side specific part number is asking for trouble, or at least a headache when some function or other doesn't work.
As far as this $450 you mention, I have done even cursory searches and prices run from $30-40 to $100 for used and $250 -$400 for new. Regardless, the whole point of this thread is to be able to fix or repair these things WITHOUT buying new, so I don't understand why a new unit is even being considered here.
Btw, I found at least two sources that will rebuild your old unit (probably replace the relays and test it) and return it to you for prices in the $65 to $70 range. Crazy expensive, huh?