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ok! so im going to install a new set of crane cam 1.7 gold series rocker arms, pushrods, guides, locks, retainers, seals and yellow ls6 behive springs, and i am just wondering if it is just a swap and play procedure or are there specific measurements and techniques i need to know, also am i going to need seats and shims or anything else?? Thanks!!
You won't need seats for the springs as they will drop right in but I am not sure the LS6 springs will control those rockers. You might be better off with the PAC springs that will have a higher seat value.
Is this one of those deals where you have to install the parts, then check for the rocker wiping pattern across the valve tips, then possibly have to order another set of pushrods...or is it a "quick and dirty" swap? I was considering a rocker swap on my car, but then "chickened out", because I didn't want to get all that complicated for a street driven car. Instead, I installed the CompCams rocker trunnion upgrade, and called it a day.
it is just a swap and play procedure or are there specific measurements and techniques i need to know
Anytime you change valvetrain components you need to verify your geometry. Especially with a non-adjustable rocker arm design.
You will need to start by mocking it up in one cylinder with the new parts and then measure the lifter preload with your existing pushrod. Do your own reasearch to find the multiple threads on measuring lifter preload.
Once you are certain that the pushrod length is correct, then make a mark on the valve tip with a sharpie and rotate the engine. Remove the rocker and see if your contact patch is a nice thin line, centered on the valve. If it is offset then you need to shim the rocker. Again - many good threads out there showing how to measure contact patch.
But first find the answer from Vettnuts question. Heavier aftermarket rockers typically require more spring rate than stock.
You won't need seats for the springs as they will drop right in but I am not sure the LS6 springs will control those rockers. You might be better off with the PAC springs that will have a higher seat value.
with the rocker setup i have, what kind of PAC spring set up(lift) should i go with?
with the rocker setup i have, what kind of PAC spring set up(lift) should i go with?
All depends on your cam but if all your were installing were LS6 springs then the 1218 would be fine( good to .600 lift). The 1518 ( good to .650 lift) would be a premium nitrided version of the 1218
All depends on your cam but if all your were installing were LS6 springs then the 1218 would be fine( good to .600 lift). The 1518 ( good to .650 lift) would be a premium nitrided version of the 1218
ok so in my car i have the hot cam already installed. now if i install the pac1218 springs=.600 lift and the crane gold 1.7 rocker arm kit should i be good or do i "HAVE" to get a new cam with a bigger lift or will i be fine??
?? The cam decides the springs, not the other way around.
You could have a new cam ground if you wanted to maximize things and get more power or have different characteristics to how it performs but you don't need to get a new cam because the springs are rate to .600 lift.
The hot cam, with those rockers, need more valve spring then the LS6 springs. PAC 1218's would be excellent and drop right in. I think you will find you have control issues with the hot cam and the Crane rockers using LS6 springs.
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but just had a quick question. I understand if you swap out all the rocker arms you need to check all the geometry but what if I were to just replace 1 or 2 rocker arms, can I just pull them off and put the new one on and just TQ the nut? or do I have to set them to zero lash?
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but just had a quick question. I understand if you swap out all the rocker arms you need to check all the geometry but what if I were to just replace 1 or 2 rocker arms, can I just pull them off and put the new one on and just TQ the nut? or do I have to set them to zero lash?
Are you talking about replacing OE rockers with OE rockers? If so, yes, all you have to do is r&r, and torque correctly. HOWEVER, do this when the cam is on the "base circle" for the rocker you're working on, so when you torque the stud, you're not applying torque against the tension of the valve spring. Doing that puts a lot of added strain on the threads in the ALUMINUM cylinder head.
Actually, I think that you'd be OK even with non-OE rockers, as long as they were of the non-adjustable variety...assuming that you shimmed or didn't shim them, based on what you had to do on the original installation of the non-OE parts.
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but just had a quick question. I understand if you swap out all the rocker arms you need to check all the geometry but what if I were to just replace 1 or 2 rocker arms, can I just pull them off and put the new one on and just TQ the nut? or do I have to set them to zero lash?
Assuming stock rockers, you can simply bolt them in when the cam is on the base circle as stated by leadfoot4. Aftermarket will depend on the rocker. Here is the GM procedure from the service manual for rocker installation.