Blue smoke :(
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,208
Likes: 6
From: Prince George VA
Blue smoke :(
So ever since I got my car a few months back I have noticed blue smoke coming from the tail pipe at idle when the motor is heated. When you give it gas hard it shoots out black. Right now I am having to add about 1/4-1/2 a quart of oil every week.
Is there a how-to anywhere on how to do a compression test on this car? Like what to disconnect so the engine doesn't fire. I have searched around and found nothing. Is it possible it is a bad pcv system or valve seals? I really hope it is not the rings. . .
On a side note the car has plenty of power. Not sure exactly if these engines have a decrease in power with bad rings. I also changed the spark plugs when I got it. I noticed on the threads of 2 of the plugs was fresh oil. But as far as the electrode area all 8 plugs looked perfect.
Is there a how-to anywhere on how to do a compression test on this car? Like what to disconnect so the engine doesn't fire. I have searched around and found nothing. Is it possible it is a bad pcv system or valve seals? I really hope it is not the rings. . .
On a side note the car has plenty of power. Not sure exactly if these engines have a decrease in power with bad rings. I also changed the spark plugs when I got it. I noticed on the threads of 2 of the plugs was fresh oil. But as far as the electrode area all 8 plugs looked perfect.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 4
From: Freeport, FL
Blue smoke = oil burning past the valves
White smoke = coolant
Black smoke = fuel (rich condition)
Whitish or Grey smoke = oil burning past rings
sounds like the valve seals may be toast.
To disable the ignition, you just need to pull a fuse under the hood in that fuse box, it's marked which one is for the ignition (IGN).
Black smoke could be a separate issue, such as fueling. If the valve seals are not controlling the oil, I'd be curious why. These engines dont seem to be prone to that issue. May have had some hack job repair or "mod" done to it before you bought it.
Black smoke could also be that it is loading up and then when you floor it it blows all that crap out.
White smoke = coolant
Black smoke = fuel (rich condition)
Whitish or Grey smoke = oil burning past rings
sounds like the valve seals may be toast.
To disable the ignition, you just need to pull a fuse under the hood in that fuse box, it's marked which one is for the ignition (IGN).
Black smoke could be a separate issue, such as fueling. If the valve seals are not controlling the oil, I'd be curious why. These engines dont seem to be prone to that issue. May have had some hack job repair or "mod" done to it before you bought it.
Black smoke could also be that it is loading up and then when you floor it it blows all that crap out.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
I assume by your name that you have an 01. The 01's were known for oil usage due to the rings, which GM changed in 02 to provide better oil control. They were doing ring replacements on them several years ago if you met the criteria for oil usage. You could add a catch can to see if it helps if you don't have one.
Do you have any mods?
Do you have any mods?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 25
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,760
Likes: 75
From: Haymarket VA
I assume by your name that you have an 01. The 01's were known for oil usage due to the rings, which GM changed in 02 to provide better oil control. They were doing ring replacements on them several years ago if you met the criteria for oil usage. You could add a catch can to see if it helps if you don't have one.
Do you have any mods?
Do you have any mods?
Does it continue to blow smoke as you accelerate? If it smokes when you first hit the gas but then clears it's probably valve seals. Is it worse when you decel in gear and then hit the gas? If it does it's almost certainly valve seals but as was said, the 01's had a definite problem with oil control at the rings.
Contact the dealer and get the Regional Service Manager involved. I think they have stopped warranteeing the rings but it can't hurt to ask.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
or it may just be oil misting....
The LSx engines are known for generating oil mist in the rocker valleys and having it carry over via the PCV valve into the intake...
A lot of us have installed an oil catch can... ( many forum supporting vendors sell them)
The PCV hose is routed into the catch can, that condensers the oil and prevents the carry over.
I have an '01 with 135K (s)miles that had the issue you described. The catch can solved it ...
The LSx engines are known for generating oil mist in the rocker valleys and having it carry over via the PCV valve into the intake...
A lot of us have installed an oil catch can... ( many forum supporting vendors sell them)
The PCV hose is routed into the catch can, that condensers the oil and prevents the carry over.
I have an '01 with 135K (s)miles that had the issue you described. The catch can solved it ...
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,208
Likes: 6
From: Prince George VA
I assume by your name that you have an 01. The 01's were known for oil usage due to the rings, which GM changed in 02 to provide better oil control. They were doing ring replacements on them several years ago if you met the criteria for oil usage. You could add a catch can to see if it helps if you don't have one.
Do you have any mods?
Do you have any mods?
There are no codes.
Does it continue to blow smoke as you accelerate? If it smokes when you first hit the gas but then clears it's probably valve seals. Is it worse when you decel in gear and then hit the gas? If it does it's almost certainly valve seals but as was said, the 01's had a definite problem with oil control at the rings.
Contact the dealer and get the Regional Service Manager involved. I think they have stopped warranteeing the rings but it can't hurt to ask.
When I decel I dont think it blows any black or blue smoke. I can take a video of the car at idle if that would help. I know at idle its a nice cloud of faint blue smoke. But if I hit gas hard for a second a cloud of smoke shoots out the back.
ps- How much is a ring job anyways?
-Also there is a little bit of oil in the intake manifold.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
I wouldn't panic yet.
Black smoke is rich, not really that big an issue in my opinion as I prefer it a bit rich for the street. All the LS1 motors do send some oil to the intake, nature of the beast. A blue puff on startup could be seals.
Black smoke is rich, not really that big an issue in my opinion as I prefer it a bit rich for the street. All the LS1 motors do send some oil to the intake, nature of the beast. A blue puff on startup could be seals.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,208
Likes: 6
From: Prince George VA
Started it this morning and olny the usual white smoke. I have drove the car very spritedly the past couple days. When I got home today after a long drive there was no smoke and the exhaus didnt even smell like oil.. wierd.
I do notice with the amsoil I put in the car holds about 8-10 less psi than with the mobil 1 oil.
So is it safe to say to go ahead and change the pcv and add a catch can as a start?
I see a write up on the new vally. Is that worth it?
I do notice with the amsoil I put in the car holds about 8-10 less psi than with the mobil 1 oil.
So is it safe to say to go ahead and change the pcv and add a catch can as a start?
I see a write up on the new vally. Is that worth it?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 4
From: Freeport, FL
Started it this morning and olny the usual white smoke. I have drove the car very spritedly the past couple days. When I got home today after a long drive there was no smoke and the exhaus didnt even smell like oil.. wierd.
I do notice with the amsoil I put in the car holds about 8-10 less psi than with the mobil 1 oil.
So is it safe to say to go ahead and change the pcv and add a catch can as a start?
I see a write up on the new vally. Is that worth it?
I do notice with the amsoil I put in the car holds about 8-10 less psi than with the mobil 1 oil.
So is it safe to say to go ahead and change the pcv and add a catch can as a start?
I see a write up on the new vally. Is that worth it?
Why don't you just do a leak down test and compression test? That'll tell you if and where there are worn parts.
Also, do you drive this car much? If not, then the white smoke is probably just condensation from this cooler temps and it is just burning off at start-up.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 5
From: Loveland CO
2001 Z06? (i can see red calipers and brake ducts....) the '01 LS6 was like mentioned above knowen for smoking... 2 of my good friends had '01's and both smoked when on hard accel. if its modded i doubt they GM rering warrenty will cover it, but worth asking.. definatly do a compression and leak down test like stated above... as long as it checks out then get a ketch can and get used to checking the oil level often. May want to sider a thicker oil, will help reduce the ammount of smoke on hard accel.
To re-Ring the motor you basically have to pull it or tear it pretty much down all the way.... alot of Mula....
S
To re-Ring the motor you basically have to pull it or tear it pretty much down all the way.... alot of Mula....
S
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 138
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
So ever since I got my car a few months back I have noticed blue smoke coming from the tail pipe at idle when the motor is heated. When you give it gas hard it shoots out black. Right now I am having to add about 1/4-1/2 a quart of oil every week.
Is there a how-to anywhere on how to do a compression test on this car? Like what to disconnect so the engine doesn't fire. I have searched around and found nothing. Is it possible it is a bad pcv system or valve seals? I really hope it is not the rings. . .
On a side note the car has plenty of power. Not sure exactly if these engines have a decrease in power with bad rings. I also changed the spark plugs when I got it. I noticed on the threads of 2 of the plugs was fresh oil. But as far as the electrode area all 8 plugs looked perfect.
Is there a how-to anywhere on how to do a compression test on this car? Like what to disconnect so the engine doesn't fire. I have searched around and found nothing. Is it possible it is a bad pcv system or valve seals? I really hope it is not the rings. . .
On a side note the car has plenty of power. Not sure exactly if these engines have a decrease in power with bad rings. I also changed the spark plugs when I got it. I noticed on the threads of 2 of the plugs was fresh oil. But as far as the electrode area all 8 plugs looked perfect.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,208
Likes: 6
From: Prince George VA
Thanks for the responses guys!
I do drive the car a lot as it is my new daily driver. I average about 60 miles a day in it.
I will do the compression test to see where I stand. What number should I be looking for?
Its not the zo6. Not sure about the warranty. I would highly doubt it? Its a 10 year old car and I am the 3rd owner. I hope it doesn't come down to the rings.
What would be a better weight over 5w-30?
Why add parts without knowing if you need them? Granted the valley tray from the LS6 is a good idea.
Why don't you just do a leak down test and compression test? That'll tell you if and where there are worn parts.
Also, do you drive this car much? If not, then the white smoke is probably just condensation from this cooler temps and it is just burning off at start-up.
Why don't you just do a leak down test and compression test? That'll tell you if and where there are worn parts.
Also, do you drive this car much? If not, then the white smoke is probably just condensation from this cooler temps and it is just burning off at start-up.
I will do the compression test to see where I stand. What number should I be looking for?
2001 Z06? (i can see red calipers and brake ducts....) the '01 LS6 was like mentioned above knowen for smoking... 2 of my good friends had '01's and both smoked when on hard accel. if its modded i doubt they GM rering warrenty will cover it, but worth asking.. definatly do a compression and leak down test like stated above... as long as it checks out then get a ketch can and get used to checking the oil level often. May want to sider a thicker oil, will help reduce the ammount of smoke on hard accel.
To re-Ring the motor you basically have to pull it or tear it pretty much down all the way.... alot of Mula....
S
To re-Ring the motor you basically have to pull it or tear it pretty much down all the way.... alot of Mula....
S
What would be a better weight over 5w-30?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 4
From: Freeport, FL
i do drive the car a lot as it is my new daily driver. I average about 60 miles a day in it. sounds like me. It's good to drive these things, keeps 'em alive. Lol
i will do the compression test to see where i stand. What number should i be looking for? oh geez, umm, maybe 150ish. Generally most engines will have 140-160psi of compression. It's been a while and i don't have my resources at hand. Really it's about consistency between cylinders. Look to see if one or more cylinders are much lower than the majority. General rule is no more than 10% variation between any of the cylinders.
"if compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings.
If the compression readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings would tell you the cylinder has a bad valve."
what would be a better weight over 5w-30? don't change viscosity due to oil consumption, this is not the reasoning behind choosing a viscosity. Mechanical clearances within the engine, temperature, engine load, etc. Are all facets that help determine what viscosity to use. Will a "thicker" oil help reduce oil blow-by past the rings? Yes, to a degree. But that is not the right way to do things. The manual indicates that 10w-30 is good for temps from zero and higher, and use 5w-30 for temps below zero. Below is from the 2001 manual. Basically, don't run "thicker" than 30 weight. The "w" weight can be lower though, such as 0, 5, or 10.
"as shown in the viscosity chart, sae 5w-30 is best
for your vehicle. However, you can use sae
10w-30 if it’s going to be 0f (-18c) or above.
These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity,
or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such
as sae 20w-50"; "substitute engine oil: When adding oil to maintain
engine oil level, oil meeting gm standard gm4718m
may not be available. You can add substitute oil
designated sae 5w-30 with the starburst symbol at all
temperatures. If temperatures are above 0f (-18c),
you may substitute sae 10w-30 with the starburst
symbol. Substitute oil not meeting gm standard
gm4718m should not be used for an oil change."
Last edited by manley845; Dec 12, 2010 at 01:49 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,208
Likes: 6
From: Prince George VA
Thanks for your responses manley! I am not sure if I want to tackle the compression and leak down test myself. I may have a shop do it instead. I have done it on my other car which was a 4 cylinder. It was very easy since the plugs were right on top of the motor. I had a hard time just changing the plugs on this car especially the back ones.
