i have a 2000 6speed
stock stereo only mods is a intake

the problem im having is battery goes dead when it gets cold
it will be totally dead withing 2 days
on warmer days it will last about almost a week.
on hot days it still be about a week

ive checked the charging system at autozone it checks out fine.
ive tried 3 different batterys even an optima red top and same results.

anyone have this problem??

 

nobody has had this problem?
how long you guys c5 hold charge for??

 

Lots of info on that problem. Do a search for battery drain or dead battery. Some of the threads will tell you how to locate the source of the drain and the acceptable amount of drain measured at the battery. Could be many things such as seat switches.....

 

just make sure you have the correct amperage and reserve cranking amperage battery to start with......

I have the same vette and mine has set for three or more weeks and started fine...one or two days is not norm....

 

ok i did some research
do u use the reverse method?
meaning shut it down and put it in reverse?

great info i got a few things to try..

 

Identifying Battery Problems

The C5 eats batteries unless you take some regular precautions. If your battery continually dies its either the battery which is on its last legs or something on the car.
You also need to look at how you use the car. Is it a daily driver? If so the battery should be getting a good top up every day so you may have a problem.

Is it a DD but you do short trips? If so you'll be taking a lot out of the battery every time you start. For a short trip, say less than about 20 mins, you won’t top it off properly. Eventually it'll drain.

Is it a weekend car. If so, this car eats batteries. Theres a 20MA drain even dormant. If you dont drive the car for a reasonable time every week or so, it'll kill the battery. In this case you really do need a battery tender.

You’ll know when your battery is bad. As it gets low you may get strange electrical indications (random warnings and U fault codes). As it gets lower it may drop the memory settings or defaults such as HUD settings. Eventually you’ll get the dreaded chattering relays in the footwell and eventually the lights on the IPC will disappear.
Most batteries can be recharged quite successfully, although AGMs are harder. Start by checking the charge on the battery. Don’t read the DIC when the car is off. The value you see on the DIC is alternator output when the car is running. It will always measure an inaccurately low voltage on the battery when the ignition is off and figures of 11.0V to 11.9V is normal in this case. With the engine on, the voltmeter should show between 13V and 14.5V. You need to measure voltage across the battery terminals using a digital multi meter if possible. A fully charged battery measures 12.7V and a fully discharged battery measures 11.9V. Partially discharged batteries will give a reading somewhere in between.

If the battery is low give it an overnight charge (or put it on a battery tender until you get a fully charged indication) and retest it. A true test is under load and Autozone will do that test for free.

If you’ve recharged it and it still runs down, then you need to start looking for excessive drains. Bill Curlee posted a good method for checking:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...rent+draw+test

There are some common faults which are well known for causing problems:

First to check is the interior lighting rotary switch on the drivers panel. It’s possible for that to be turned on as there’s a setting (fully clockwise) which bypasses the auto off function. Turn it fully counter clockwise and check after about 30 mins (preferably in the dark) that the interior lights have gone off.

If it’s not the lights something has failed or is badly installed.

Have you fitted an after-market device which draws current? Typically it’s a cellphone charger, radar warner or a similar device that’s the problem.

If still no joy, you need to start pulling fuses to identify the problem.

The power seat switches on the side of both seats are notoriously unreliable. The switch becomes sticky with use and can stick in the “on” position. You shouldn’t damage the motors as they are thermally protected. The fuse may blow so worth checking (Fuse 36 20A in footwell).

The driver’s lumbar motor can also cause issues so check this too (mini fuse 3 15A in footwell). The seat controls connect under the seat. Pull the connector and if the drain stops that’s your problem.

Less common but not unheard of are failures of the headlight motor control module the alternator and the Bose Amplifier under the dash on the driver’s side.

HTH

 

Very good info from DeeGee. Are you handy with a DVM or meter? If so, you need to see how much voltage you are getting from the alternator. If it checked out on its own, either a battery drain issue is taking place as DeeGee suggested or possibly a bad connection getting the alternator power back into the battery. In the case of the Corvette's, this main connection point is at the starter solenoid. Also, there is a fuseable link going down to the solenoid from specifically the alternator that should be looked at. Do not forget that the solenoid is as mentioned, the main connection for all of the electrical systems. Fuse boxes, alternator, battery and of course the starter, all come together there AND its electrically hot unless you remove the negative battery cable first.

 

mine will also go , usually if i do not start it within 3 weeks, its a common thing, for me, so i just start the vert every 3 weeks, and i also have a 2000 6 speed.

 

So not normal.My OEM 2004 battery lasted 6 years.My vette can sit a month without moving and start just fine.You either have a draw or a bad battery.