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Need help on brake diagnosis??

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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:05 AM
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Default Need help on brake diagnosis??

Have a 97 c5 a4, 59,000 miles. Recently purchased. When I slow down I get a light vibration at higher speeds, worse when I come to complete stop, almost like a abs pulse when coming to complete stop. Car has no current lights on dash like traction control or abs. Any suggestions on where to start? Abs sensor may be dirty? Rotors? Idk?? Help!
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by swurvnC5R
Have a 97 c5 a4, 59,000 miles. Recently purchased. When I slow down I get a light vibration at higher speeds, worse when I come to complete stop, almost like a abs pulse when coming to complete stop. Car has no current lights on dash like traction control or abs. Any suggestions on where to start? Abs sensor may be dirty? Rotors? Idk?? Help!
Could be as simple as rotors. Assuming you do not have the tools to check the runout, you would be best served, to take it to a trusted shop......
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:27 AM
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Rotor is warped or you have spots on the rotr that are contaiminated by the binder from the pads causing "sticky" spots.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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I bet on warped rotors. Can you feel a light pulsating in the pedal when you come to a stop.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:19 AM
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My bet would be on an uneven buildup of friction material on the rotor which can be removed by scrubbing with steal wool on the fire path. Just need to break in the rotors/pads again after you do this.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
My bet would be on an uneven buildup of friction material on the rotor which can be removed by scrubbing with steal wool on the fire path. Just need to break in the rotors/pads again after you do this.
From what I've read, this is the more common problem. Most people solve it by turning the rotor. I have a 3M kit with abrasive discs for a drill that put a nondirectional surface on the rotor-works nice but (of course) the rotors have to come off.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 12:18 PM
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just do a several 65 MPH - 20 MPH ABS lock up stops and see if that improves the issue, If it doesnt, the rotors may just need a minimul resurface. Try the hard stop first!

BC
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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Thanks guys, it's more of a abs type of pumping when coming to a complete stop. It's weird, not the regular feel of warped rotors, but this is my first corvette so who knows. I will try the abs style stops tomorrow. Like I said there are no lights on the dash, and there aren't any grinding sounds coming from brakes. Light squeaking when hot.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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HA! Pull the ABS fuses and take the car for a drive,, If its an electrical or mechanical issue,,, it will be VERY apparent!!!!!!!!!!!!

If it still has the pulsations,,, its mechanical!

BC
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:30 PM
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Sounds like typical warped rotors to me. Take it to a shop and have them cut if you have enough left.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 07:27 AM
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I could only find one fuse for abs, it was under hood number 5. Are there any more?
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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I tried the panic stops this am to no avail, may have lightened the vibration but not enough to be happy... Should I take it to somewhere like mti? Or can a just brakes or Midas handle this diagnosis? I just want to enjoy stopping as much as taking off! Haha I'm in the north Atlanta area of anyone local can help! Thanks in advance!
Alex
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 11:08 AM
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I also suspect you have a warp problem. It may be severe. Living in Houston it was near impossible to avoid occasional high water which meant everyone had warped rotors. It was just a question of degree.

My C5 brakes pulse a little when lightly braking for a light but not enough to resurface them until the next pad replacement. Most brake and alignment shops can handle rotor turning. They have a book that lists the minimum rotor thickness they can legally turn any car to. Before removing the rotor they should attach a dial indicator which will display the total lateral runout. They can then judge whether the rotor can be legally turned or replaced. Rotors which are too thin can overheat leading to cracks and brake fade. Even if you have to replace the rotors they aren't that expensive. There are many rotor and pad options so don't just put the first thing they suggest on your car.

Before trusting my car in a new place I call or even drop by and talk to the managers to see if they know what they are doing. You can also tell a lot about the quality of work performed by how well the shop is organized. I also give points for shops that let me talk to the people working on the vehicle. Some places won't even let you walk near the shop floor. They don't get my business.

I think turning your rotors and replacing your pads if necessary will make them feel new again. Good luck with your brakes and let us know how it goes.

Last edited by Cratecruncher; Jan 8, 2011 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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It is supposed to snow and ice all this weekend until Tuesday, I will take a look around for a good shop around north atl and have them take a look for me... If anyone has a recommendation of a shop in my area please let me know asap! Thanks
Alex
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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Some of the best low price, great quality rotor replacements can be had at NAPA. For the price that there going to charge you to turn the rotors, for a few more bucks, you can have NEW rotors. Then get some EBC pads and your golden!

NOTE, If you have a military or retired military ID, you get 10% off he price!

BC
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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Are cross drilled and slotted rotors worth the money of I need rotors?
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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In my opinion,,, NOT REALLY. The rotors that I purchased a NAPA work great and I drive the hell out of them.

I had a C6 Z51 Coupe that came factory with drilled rotors. Funny thing, the break dust clogged the holes and I had to clean them out numerous times. People who track their cars, have had the holes crack between the holes.

BC
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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Mti quoted me 520 plus tax for only four new rotors installed. This seems kinda high... Anyone have a ball park for what I should pay?
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by swurvnC5R
Mti quoted me 520 plus tax for only four new rotors installed. This seems kinda high... Anyone have a ball park for what I should pay?
Did you request an itemized break down of the charges, so you can compare with other shops/vendors?
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 07:05 PM
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80 a rotor plus 50 per wheel for labor. 200 labor and 320 rotors plus tax..
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