We bought this car after it was involved in a wreck while sitting on a dealership lot. It was parked and a car from the highway hit several cars, pushing them into the vette. It was shoved sideways and sustained damage on both sides.

It is now repaired and ready for paint but it won't start. The ECM was damaged so we replaced it. It was flash programmed by the VIN number by the supplier we purchased it from. We can't get the security light to clear.

Any ideas?

 

.....meaning....cranks, but won't fire? ....or no crank?

 

turns over but won't start

 

We've tried this but can't get the security light to clear on the dash

 

READ & POST the DTCs:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post yo



That holds the secret!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BC

 

Finally had a chance to run the diagnostics on the '02 vette.

10- PCM - No Comm
60-IPC - No Codes
58-SDM - 3 Codes
40-BCM - 8 Codes
28-TCS - 7 Codes

It never showed the actual codes...?

 

Cause your NOT fully utilizing the code reading functions. Read this and post the actual DTCs:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Is there any way to slow down the codes so that I can write them down? Also, on the first one - I assume the No Comm means no communication?

 

ENTER MANUAL MODE!! After it automatically goes thru all the modules it will go into MANUAL MODE and you can read each code at your leisure.

BC

 

Thanks! I'll try to get into the manual mode.

Also, when I turn the key on, the front parking lights come on but not anything else. Is this tied to the security system?

 

What do you mean nothing else comes on. The entire gage cluster should come to life and all gages should sweep, Sounds like your missing power to the PCM & IPC and some other modules.

BC

 

When I turn the key on to start the diagnostic test, the gauges sweep back and forth and the lights come on inside. The car turns over, but the front parking lights stay on until I shut the key off.

 

It appears that your PCM is not communicating. Run the codes again. It should say no codes or list codes. No COMM No Good.

 

No comms means that the module isnt powered properly OR the serial data buss in not connected. My first call would be to check the FUSES to all of those modules, REMEMBER!! Those modules have mulitple POWER fuses. Some are hot at all times and soem are only powered when the key is ON.

Check those fuses

 

I would like to know the extent of the repairs done. The PCM was changed due to damaged, yet there was no wiring harness damage? Additionally, if the PCM was damaged, how did the TAC module survive?

 

AND,,,, YES! A PCM/BCM RELEARN must be accomplished!!!

BCM/PCM RELEARN PROCEDURE


You will need to conduct the PCM/BCM relearn process. This matches their handshake ID's and allows them to talk to each other.

Do this before you worry about VATS issues:

1. Turn on the key for 11 minutes.
2 Turn off the key for 30 seconds.
3. Repeat 1&2 two more times.
4. Turn on the key for 30 seconds.

The car should start and run with the new BCM. Good luck and report back on your progress.
Shirl
SD Racing Enterprises
Aguila, AZ
Coutersy of MrEracer


This will sync the PCM to the New BCM but all of your RPO options will not be retained. You will need a TECH II to program them into the new BCM.

Bill Curlee

 

Finally, here are the codes!
10-PCM NO COMM

28 TCS 7 CODES
C1 221 H
C1 222 H
C1 234 H
C1 248 H
C1 295 H
U1016 H
U1000 HC

40 BCM 9 CODES
B0605 H
B0502 H
B0507 H
B2482 H
B2527 H
B2587 H
B2592 H
B2809 H
U1255 HC

60 IDC NO CODES

80 RADIO NO CODES

99 HVAC 1 CODE
U1160 H

A0-LDCM 8 CODES
B 2252 H
B 2204 H
B 2282 H
B 2286 H
B 2284 H
B 2264 H
U 1064 H
U 1016 H

A1-RDCM 7 CODES
B 2205 H
B 2283 H
B 2285 H
U 1255 H
U 1064 H
U 1016 H
U 1096 H

A6-SLM 1 CODE
B 2607 H

B0-RFA 8 CODES
C 2100 H-C
C 2105 H-C
C 2110 H-C
C 2115 H
U 1000 H-C
U 1255 H
U 1096 H
U 1016 H

Also, there was a question about the damage, the PCM was hit, but haven't seen any damage to the wiring harness.

 

The 1st one is the killer-till you get that sorted out-your going NOWHERE.

 

Not knowing how this thing got SMACKED, I'd check the accordian in the passenger door, The serail buss wire has NO insulation the last 1/2" or so and if it got smacked on that side, I would not be surprised if that wire is grounded in that area somewhere.