window inoperable, passenger side
02-15-2011, 01:17 AM
#1
3rd Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2011
Location: Consort Alberta
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
window inoperable, passenger side
Hey, just joined today, great forum, lots of good info!
My '03 Z06 has the usual power window issue. I went out to the shop this afternoon & did some troubleshooting. It has the typical symtoms: Didn't operate at first, can hear the clicking coming from inside the door & the interior lights dim slightly when trying to raise or lower the window, hammered on the door panel on several occasions with no success, then one day it started to work. Cycled the window every time I was in the car, then it quit working again. Removed the door panel & speaker assembly today & disconnected the harness on the regulator motor. The connector pins were clean & looked good. Used a multimeter to check voltage at the connector, there's battery voltage when activating the switch in either direction indicating the electrical system is good. I then removed the 4 screws holding the motor housing onto the gear box & removed it. All looked good inside (what little I could see) except the motor bearing looked dry. The armature turned freely in both directions by hand & the window mechanism looked good (cables snug, pulleys intact, etc). Lubed the motor bearing & reassembled the motor, used contact cleaner on the connections, applied dielectric grease & reconnected the harnesses. Now it works again (for now). Here's my thoughts: This appears to be a motor issue, my best guess is a poor connection between the brushes & the commutator caused by corrosion. It makes sense that hitting the door panel while holding the window switch might vibrate the armature enough to make a connection, or rotating the armature by hand might help make the connection also. Now I haven't had the motor completely apart so I don't know how much spring pressure there is on the brushes, but I was thinking more spring pressure may be needed. I fully expect it to fail again as I really didn't make much of a change. Any thoughts?
My '03 Z06 has the usual power window issue. I went out to the shop this afternoon & did some troubleshooting. It has the typical symtoms: Didn't operate at first, can hear the clicking coming from inside the door & the interior lights dim slightly when trying to raise or lower the window, hammered on the door panel on several occasions with no success, then one day it started to work. Cycled the window every time I was in the car, then it quit working again. Removed the door panel & speaker assembly today & disconnected the harness on the regulator motor. The connector pins were clean & looked good. Used a multimeter to check voltage at the connector, there's battery voltage when activating the switch in either direction indicating the electrical system is good. I then removed the 4 screws holding the motor housing onto the gear box & removed it. All looked good inside (what little I could see) except the motor bearing looked dry. The armature turned freely in both directions by hand & the window mechanism looked good (cables snug, pulleys intact, etc). Lubed the motor bearing & reassembled the motor, used contact cleaner on the connections, applied dielectric grease & reconnected the harnesses. Now it works again (for now). Here's my thoughts: This appears to be a motor issue, my best guess is a poor connection between the brushes & the commutator caused by corrosion. It makes sense that hitting the door panel while holding the window switch might vibrate the armature enough to make a connection, or rotating the armature by hand might help make the connection also. Now I haven't had the motor completely apart so I don't know how much spring pressure there is on the brushes, but I was thinking more spring pressure may be needed. I fully expect it to fail again as I really didn't make much of a change. Any thoughts?
02-15-2011, 05:18 AM
#2
Safety Car
I've seen a number of posts, over the years on this subject.. Its a motor issue and most people have solved the problem by hitting the inside of the door where the motor is located.. This is a common problem on other GM vehicles also.. My Chevy Blazer had the same issue about 4 years ago. I took the door panel off and gently pounded on the motor with a rubber mallet.. Problem solved.. No more issues.. Every situation is unique, and sometimes the banging method is a temporary fix or a no fix situation.. You may have to replace the motor. Worst case scenario.. Knock on wood.. I've been good for 4 years with the Blazer.. No problems on my Z06.. Do a search on this forum.. As I said I have seen many posts on this issue and the majority of C5 owners have and great results from the banging method.. Ok,, Banging method sounds kind of bad.. If someone can think of a better term, then chime in 
Good Luck
Good Luck
Last edited by David426; 02-15-2011 at 05:32 AM.
02-15-2011, 10:57 AM
#4
Instructor
Funkster,
The motor freezes up due to friction caused by lack of lubrication. If you can hear the relay in the DCM close it's most likely motor friction, not electrical. The brushes have plenty of spring force and the plastic spring guides on the cables will fail long before the brushes wear down enough to pop out of their guides. (Yes, I've taken them apart and examined every centimeter of the regulator.) Just continue to exercise the motor every now and then as you do now and when it stops working do exactly what you did this time.
...but when the window starts to jerk on the way down the spring guides have failed and it's time for a new regulator. Based on the suggestion of another forum member, I've started raising my windows to 99.9% of full upward travel to take some stress off the spring guide. Based on the failures I've seen I think it might make a difference in how long the regulators last. Eventually one of the aftermarket guys will sell a rebuild kit. But for now OEM replacement regulators are still available for less than $200.
The motor freezes up due to friction caused by lack of lubrication. If you can hear the relay in the DCM close it's most likely motor friction, not electrical. The brushes have plenty of spring force and the plastic spring guides on the cables will fail long before the brushes wear down enough to pop out of their guides. (Yes, I've taken them apart and examined every centimeter of the regulator.) Just continue to exercise the motor every now and then as you do now and when it stops working do exactly what you did this time.
...but when the window starts to jerk on the way down the spring guides have failed and it's time for a new regulator. Based on the suggestion of another forum member, I've started raising my windows to 99.9% of full upward travel to take some stress off the spring guide. Based on the failures I've seen I think it might make a difference in how long the regulators last. Eventually one of the aftermarket guys will sell a rebuild kit. But for now OEM replacement regulators are still available for less than $200.
Last edited by Cratecruncher; 02-15-2011 at 02:19 PM.
02-15-2011, 03:43 PM
#5
3rd Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2011
Location: Consort Alberta
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the input. Now that the problem is narrowed down to the motor, I'll know where to start next time this issue pops up. When I get to my shop, I'll roll the window down slightly like you said. I reallize banging on the door panel often gets the window working again, but I sure hate doing that to my car. Thanks again guys!
